Peshawar


Peshawar, the capital of the North West Frontier Province and is one of the best known cities of Pakistan. This may be due to its being the frontier town, its proximity to the famous Khyber Pass or its mention in the history written as far back as 400 BC In the past, it has been mentioned by different names. Herodotus, the Greek historian has referred to it as Pushpapura, Fa Hian mentions it as Poleushaha, Hiun Tsang refers to it as Pulu-Shalpu-Lo. The name Peshawar was given to it by the great Moghul Emperor, Akbar.

Coming from Afghanistan through the Khyber Pass, Peshawar is the first main city. Many scholars, traders, merchants, historians and conquerors have passed through it. It is now, as it has always been, a frontier town. This land of the Pathans is as handsome as its sons and as charming as its daughters. Hospitality reigns in this land of contrast and beauty. Peshawar has enjoyed the reputation of being the center of attraction for tourists since centuries.

There are very few ancient cities in the subcontinent, which in spite of the great stresses and strains have retained their old complexion, and Peshawar is one of them. A walk through the old city's blind alleys will help you appreciate how Peshawar has retained its centuries old grandeur and complexion. The ramparts though in dilapidated state, and the various Darwazas (gates) still exist to tell a story of the good old days. A town set in the rugged splendor of the North West Frontier Province of Pakistan it is undoubtedly a true metropolis of the Orient. It has till today, preserved its traditional flavor and retained the air of Arabian Nights - without remaining indifferent to the demands of modern development.

The valley of Peshawar has been described as the Gandhara Kingdom in ancient history. Later, veils of obscurity began to clear with the invasion of the Macedonian King, when the valley resounded with Clap-Trap of Greek Armies under the command of Alexander the Great who made a two-pronged attack, one pan of his armies marching directly through the Khyber Pass and the other pushing its way through the area of Kunar, Bajaur and Swat. Alexander himself accompanied the latter.

His mission did not leave deep impressions on the Peshawar valley. Buddhism thrived here, and in the reign of Asoka, the grandson of Chandragupta, the new religion made inroads into Kabul and Kashmir. This period is known for its famous rock edicts-inscriptions cut into hard rocks or pillars of stones, directed by Asoka himself. The object of having these inscriptions made has been stated to be of an ethical and religious nature, rather than being anything historical or political. One such edict has been discovered on a rock near a village called Shahbaz Garhi, about 10 miles East of Mardan. Buddhism was in its ascendancy when Fa Hian reached here. But was losing ground by the time Hiun Tsang came here sometime in the 6th Century.

Before the close of the 7th Century, Pathans appeared on the soil and spread to a part of the plain country near the River Indus. Supported by the Gakhars at a later stage, they also compelled the Lahore rulers to surrender the hilly country-West of the river Indus and south of the river Kabul. It was in the 10th Century that Peshawar fell to Muslim Rule for the first time when Subaktageen defeated Jaipal, the ruler of Lahore. His son, Mahmood Gaznavi, succeeded Subaktageen and Peshawar (or Parshawar as it used to be called in the past) remained under Mahmood's successors. During the later period, many more Muslim Warriors came, one after the other through the Khyber Pass. In 1505 there appeared Babar (the great Moghul) on the scene. He and his successors ruled the territory for about four hundred years. This also aided in the spread of Islam-the religion being followed and practiced till today.

Thus, the story of Peshawar is a story of many a people and of many a culture. Conquered by Greeks, ruled by Buddhists, captured by the great Moghuls, overrun by Sikhs and annexed by the British in succession, Peshawar has emerged enriched in color and tradition from the endless turmoil of history. The Greeks have left their mark here and the Buddhists have immortalized their memory. Villages still bear Greek names and the faces remind one of the classic Greek features. Innumerable pieces of Gandhara sculpture excavated from archaeological sites bear testimony to the high standard of art attained by the Buddhists some two thousand years ago.

A tourist would certainly find it interesting to enter into any Mohallah, Kucha or street and behold the past in the modern sphere. Most of the Mohallahs have been named not after persons but after professions, which shows that the people of Peshawar gave more importance to their professions than personalities and were proud of them.

Peshawar has also been touched by the wand of modernization, but it has restricted itself to the area across the railway line, which plays the role of a divider between the past and the present.

The Saddar area is spaciously laid out with avenues of tall old trees, broad tarred roads, green lawns and modern structures. To the west on the road to khyber today you find a line of educational institutions and a new township has come up recently.

There are many exciting sites and buildings which stand majestically to offer their traditional hospitality to the visitors.

Bala Hisrat Fort:

This Fort built by the Moghul Emperor Babar in 1526-30 AD was destroyed by the Sikhs and thereafter rebuilt in its present form by Hari Singh Nalva, the Sikh Governor of Peshawar, in the year 1830 AD under the supervision of French engineers. A number of barracks were built by the British in 1849 AD

Ghor Khatri:

The Chowk was elected in the memory of Col. E.C Hasting in 1892 A.D by his friends both local and foreign. This chowk is in the heart of the city, which is the venue of all types of meetings, which are held in Peshawar. Previously there used to be a domed structure here and now a modern concrete structure has taken its place.

Qissa Khawani Bazaar:

"Qissa Khawani Bazaar meaning the bazaar of story tellers", is a big bustling bazaar today with a rich past. Today you will see no storyteller in this bazaar. It has been taken over by traders and merchants. It is said this bazaar was brought into existence at the instance of a French army officer Abe Tabele, who was in the service of Sikh rulers. It is also said that this bazaar was modeled after some street in Paris. This bazaar has seen some barbaric atrocities of the British in the year 1930. Two very simple memorials on the roadside remind us of that bloody day.

Bazaar Tour:

Visitors to Peshawar are guaranteed to be fascinated by the labyrinth of lanes and alleys that are found in the old city Hours can be spent pleasantly, wandering through the bazaars The shops are all constructed in typical Asiatic style. They all have more or less same goods on sale they are hardly ever closed except on Fridays for Juma Prayers. A complete tour of the bazaar will take at least 3 hours. If you start from the Jail Bridge, crossing the railway line between the Jail and Park hotel. You would benefit more if you left your car and hired a rickshaw or Tonga. The first thing a tourist will be attracted to are the brass and copper shops. These have a variety of good quality brass and copper ware If you turn right opposite the entry in the Peshawar pottery you will find an extensive range of local cloth, from here you may proceed to the area where baskets from D.l. Khan (Dera Ismail Khan) are sold. Most shopkeepers here speak only Urdu and Hindko.

Two fascinating walks can be taken from the square. To the left is the Andarshahr Bazaar and this is the Jewelry Bazaar of the old city. Quite some interesting antique silver jewelry as well as some tribal jewelry can be bought in this place.

The next lane to the right stands the Meena Bazaar for women here you find the same wares as found in other Meena Bazaars. This is the right place to buy a genuine Burqa in.

Peshawar Museum:

The museum was founded in the year 1907~ and houses some rare specimens of Gandhara art. A visit to the museum will help in the understanding of the history and culture of the Gandhara valley of which Peshawar is an important city.

Shahji-Ki-Dheri:

The 'Dheri' is an ancient mound about a mile outside the city in the southeast corner. The present two mounds, lying east and west, represent a stupa. The stupa, it is said was about four hundred feet in height and its construction was undertaken by a Greek in the service of King Kanishka.



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