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Cut and Shut 4-CIG (class 421)
Page last updated 24/03/04
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I did'nt want anything too difficult for my first attempt at a kit, I had long been aware of the range availible through DC kits (their website www.dckits.co.uk. The site contains information on the company, their kits a list of what they manufacture and prices. I had looked over the site many times under the recomendation that the DC's kits were relitavely cheap and easy to build as a first kit. As I had not built a kit before I did'nt want anything with a huge cost because of the high chance that it would go wrong, an MLV (motor luggage van) kit is idea for the beginner as it is just 1 car, but this was out of period for my layout, so I picked one of the 2 car kits; a 'thumper' class 205 hampshire DEMU. There are many 2 car kits availible including the 2-EPB and 2-HAP but these were outside of my period also.
I made a trip down to the Oxted-Uckfield line to get some pictures and inspiration for the kit. Out on the shuttles that day were 205025 and 205033, 205025 was just to the specification of the kit, and also the first 'thumper' I had seen, so this was to become the subject of my model. (the 'thumpers' have now ceased off-peak operation on the Oxted-Uckfield line and 205025 has been withdrawn, but has thankfully been purchassed by the Mid-Hants watercress line and will run in preservation). DC kits are to a good quality and the standard kit includes all the plastic part for the coach body, underframe and bogies, etched detailing sheets and several cast items. For ease I chose to buy the complete kit including a Tenshendo motor bogie, Romford wheels and bearings and internal seating. So first impressions of the kit were good, unfortnatly Charlie Petty of DC kit's instructions are not as clear to follow as I would have hoped, so much so that I used them mearly as a guide, and put the kit together as I felt best. I started by attatching the sides and ends to the floor, I later discovered this is not the advised way to build the kit, I should have attatched the ends and sides to the roof and attatched it to the floor later, I will put this error down to inexperience! It is recomended that DC kits own special ABS plastic glue is used for the kit, I used this and it worked very well, although I am sure other glues would do the job just the same. Getting all the bits right is quite difficult, but vitally important as I found out later when I tried to fit the roof over an front end which I has stuck on 1mm too high! When building a kit of any model, but particularly the thumpers it is important to consult pleanty of photos of your chosen prototype, as they are all different! 205025 luckily did not require the mouldings of the kit to be changed at all, but some other thumpers would need some alteration. Once the bodys have been put together the internal partions can be added, these can be brought from DC kits, though I chose to make my own from plasticard. The bogies and motor bogies need to be made up. A 2 car unit has 2 of each type of bogie, 2 motor bogies on the DMBS (driving motor break standard) and 2 trailing bogies on the DTCL (driving trailor composite lavatory). A large hole needs to be cut in the floor to allow fitting of the tenshendo motor bogie, I find it best to fit this under the engine room part of the DMBS as it does not intrude into the passenger space on the train. The bogies can be attatched using the pins provided in the kit, however mine were done with screws so that they could be removed if required later (this has already proved to be useful). Next some of the etched detailing parts can be added, I have fitted door hinges and handles to my unit, though these can get easily damaged and some people choose not to bother with them. I will fit grab rails and handrails after painting. DC kits provide etched parts for the front end including MU cables, and a high intensity headlamp, they also provide plastic buffing plates and buffers. I chose to replace all of the front end detailing parts with cast items from MJT. I used their MU cables, retracted buffers and will use their buffing plates when I manage to get hold of some. I have used replica plastic high intensity headlight mouldings to replace the etched ones which appeared too flat to me. Being a non corridor unit the inner ends also needed detailing, parts are provided on the etching sheet for this purpose, and these parts were used as they are perfectly acurate. I will also add MJT cast buffing plates and MU cables to improve the look of the inner ends further. (Note that 205205 had internal gangways fitted when it was experimentally refurbished). DC kits provide all sorts of parts for detailing the underframe of the model, there are very few components on the DTCL, but the DMBS is quite crowded with parts. The etched, cast and plastic moulded parts are to good quality, and the diagrams in the instructions provide a good basis for where they should be fitted, however some places will need adjusting or they will be fouled by the bogies. The roof also needs to be detailed with the engine roof part and also roof vents and conduit. The roofs on all the thumpers are conveniently varying, so again check a photo before doing the work. I was not satisfied with the roof vents provided in the kit, so I changed them for MJT ridged coach ventilators which are correct for 205025, though some units are fitted with scalloped dome type ventilators. The diagrams in the instructions for fitting the ventilators seem to be accurate so I followed these to fit the ventilators and engine room roof etching. I consulted my own photos for positioning the twin air horns and box on the front of the unit. All units have toilet piping fitted to the roof on the DTCL, and certain units (205012 comes to mind) also have much more couduit on both vehicles. The toilet piping and roof conduit can be fitted from wire after the model has been painted. This is as far as I have got with my model. The next things to get done will be to finish fitting the internal partions, fit window bars on the unit and finish detailing the ends with buffing plates when I can source some. The model will then be undercoated. Model Built by James Stearn if you have any queiries or comments on this page please feel free to e-mail me at: [email protected] I hope you found this article informative. |
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