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Darjeeling

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Situata a nordest del Bengala Occidentale a pochi km dal confine con il Sikkim , Darjeeling � una stazione climatica costruita nel periodo coloniale. Se la giornata � limpida si possono vedere i monti della catena del Kachenjunga che separano questa parte dell' India dal Nepal.
Situata 2100 metri sul livello del mare, � un ottimo posto per sfuggire alla calura ed alla calca della pianura.

Che fare?

  • Comperare t� e visitare le piantagioni.
  • Una gita sul Toy Train
  • Visitare il centro di riproduzione del leopardo delle nevi
  • Prendere una tazza di t� al Windamere Hotel
  • Visitare i monasteri della zona
  • Perdersi nelle strette via del Chowk Bazaar
  • Visitareil giardino botanico
  • Un brivido sulla funivia
  • Un corso di meditazione
  • Cercare uno dei pochi bar e bere una super strong "Hit" beer contrabbandata dal Sikkim
  • Visitare lo zoo ed il vicino Himalayan Mountain Institute (chiuso il gioved�)
  • Guardare dal telescopio appartenuto ad Hitler!

    Cosa non va?

    Frequenti mancanze di energia elettrica.
    Visibilit� zero quando le nuvole sono sopra la citt� in particolare tra Giugno e Agosto
    Alle nove di sera tutti a nanna.

    Quanto stare ?

    Da tre giorni in poi dipende da cosa si vuole dalla vita.

    Quando ?

    I mesi migliori sono da Aprile a Maggio e da Settembre ad Ottobre, in particolare per la visibilit� delle montagne. Uno sguardo di 120 gradi sull' Himalaya, il Kachenjunga a 8585 m. ed in lontananza si vede anche l'Everest.

    Background

    Fondata dagli Inglesi a met� del 1800 per ospitare i lavoratori nepalesi delle piantagione da t�,� ora una regione autonoma all'interno del West Bengal government. Oggi, il Darjeeling Gorkha Hill Council svolge le mansioni di governo locale di una regione regione di circa 1200 miglia quadrate . In questa area, la lingua dominante � il Nepali, e la popolazione e costituita da Gurungs, Tamangs, Rais e Magars, tutte di origine Nepalese conosciute collettivamente con il nome di Gorkhas.

    Dove stare

    Darjeeling a una popolazione di 70.000 abitanti, quidi una piccola citt�, ma ha oltre 270 hotels. Quasi tutti i "backpackers" sono nella zona della TV tower nel punto pi� alto di Darjeeling. Quando si arriva dal treno o dalle Jeep baste girare a destra ed inerpicarsi su per la collina, in quindici minuti si � alla meta. Gli hotel che seguono sono nella zona
    i prezzi elencati si riferiscono alla bassa stagione
    � Tower View Lodge
    (54452), 8/1 Dr. Z Hussain Road.
    The most popular backpacker lodge. A friendly family run the business, basic but popular meals served in restaurant area. Downstairs concrete built rooms very gloomy. Upstairs wooden-built rooms better but noisy. Doubles R100/80 with bath, no hot water. Single occupancy R80. One hot-water shower available for all (if the electricity is working). Internet access. What you may not like: lounge/restaurant area has a very loud television
    � Hotel Aliment
    (55068), 40 Dr. Z Hussain Road.
    Another popular place for budget travelers, this place has a top floor restaurant that closes at 9.30 p.m., an Internet caf� and a mini library. Doubles with bath/hot water R200, doubles with bath/no hot water R150. Singles with bath/no hot water R70. Hot water can be provided in buckets. Laundry service available.
    � Andy's Guest House
    (53125), 102 Dr. Z. Hussain Road.
    Very clean and well maintained, extremely quiet. Friendly owner. Big lounge area. Rooms with Indian style bathroom, no hot water, doubles R250 singles R150. Rooms with European style bathroom and hot water geyser, doubles R300 singles R250.
    � Hotel Springburn
    (52054), Gandhi Road.
    In a large house, clean but slightly rundown. All rooms are large doubles with bathroom and have hot water geysers. TV. Doubles R250, single occupancy R220. Good value.
    � Pineridge Hotel
    (54074), Nehru Road, next to Chowrasta.
    An enormous and ancient hotel. Seemingly a wreck of a place from the outside but, after walking down dark alleyways: Double R350, single occupancy R250, fairly clean and comfortable, large rooms with fireplace and chesterfield sofas!! All rooms with bathroom/hot water geyser.
    Dil Hotel
    (52773), 12A Rockville Road.
    Main door leads to carpeted hallway and rooms on either side. Quite clean. All rooms have attached bath with hot water geyser and TV. Hotel has own generator. Triples for R400, doubles, R400, single occupancy on double size bed R300.
    � Classic Guest House, also known as Dant Koti
    (54106, 54120), C.R. Das road, one minute from Chowrasta
    . Very comfortable, quiet rooms. TV. Bathroom with hot water geyser. Doubles R450, single occupancy R350.
    Hotel Shangrila (54149), 5 Nehru Road.
    A faded wooden building, on the scruffy side. Extremely large, doubles with fireplace R400. All with bathroom and hot water geyser. Also Indian/Chinese restaurant and bar.
    � Hotel Sunflower
    (54390/54391, [email protected]), Chowrasta
    A modern hotel with smallish sized rooms. Doubles R600 with bath/hot water. No singles. TV/telephone. Quiet and extremely clean. Vegetarian restaurant. Helpful staff.
    � Hotel Dekeling
    (54159, [email protected]), 51 Gandhi Road
    A marble staircase leads to rooms with TV, telephone, bathrooms with hot water geyser. Fully carpeted. Spotlessly clean and extremely comfortable. Beautiful lounge/restaurant and library. Own generator. Double R700 for rooms with view, backrooms R400-600 for a double. Single occupancy same rate. If you fancy a bit of luxury...

    Dove mangiare

    Se si vuole assaporare le comodit� e le abitudini del periodo coloniale bisogna andare al Windamere Hotel con un brandy ed un sigaro nel dopopasto nella anessa smoking room.
    Per una cena al lume di candela si salgono le scale del ristorante della Glenary's Bakery in Nehru Road.
    Chi vuole fagioli di soia, momos ed i migliori piatti di riso e vegetariani della citt� deve andare nel minuscolo(confermo minuscolo), Sonarm's Kitchen in Dr.Z.Hussain Road. .
    Se si vuole bere una birra in santa pace il solo vero pub della citt� � il Joey's Pub in una via laterale alla fine di Ladenla Road, vicino all'ufficio postale.
    Non si pu� lasciare Darjeeling senza bere una tazza di t�. tutte le colline attorno alla citt� sono piene di piantagioni di t� e della migliore qualit� sul mercato.Ci sono anche visite guidate alla Happy Valley Tea Estate, un km di cammino dal giardino botanico oppure si prende la funivia per Tukvar e si cerca una guida per la Tukvar Tea Estate. In citt� il t� si compera:
    Natmulls Tea Room, con una vasta selezione.
    Chowrasta Tea Store, Chowrasta.Una minore selezione ma un corriere che spedisce un km di t� ovunque per 400 Rupie in otto giorni.

    Internet

    Prezzi che vanno dai 25 alle 40 rupie ma connessioni lente. "Darjlink" all'interno del Pradhan Hotel,
    57 Gandhi Road
    Glenary's Bakery, all'interno
    Nehru Road
    Rhythm Internet,
    J.P. Sharma Road
    Udayan Cyber Caf�, sopra l' Hotel Red Rose, 37 Ladenla Road
    Compuset Centre, 14 Gandhi Road.
    Probably the best in town.
    Amigos Internet, Chow Rasta

    Il Toy Train

    "The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway" � una linea a scartamento ridotto che va da NJP Station (New Jalpiaguri) a Darjeeling. Una piccola locomotiva a vapore porta merci e passeggeri ad una lentezza incredibile su � gi� per la montagna. Da Ghum a Darjeeling il treno annuncia la sua presenza con fischi continui per fare allontanare i pedoni che usano la via ferrata.
    Orario :

    Per Darjeeling
    NJP 09.00
    Siliguri 09.25
    Kurseong 13.11
    Ghum 15.02
    Arrivo a Darjeeling 15.30

    Per NJP
    : Darjeeling 10.40
    Ghum 11.11
    Kurseong 13.17
    Siliguri 16.40
    Arrivo a NJP 17.10

    Il dipartimanto per il turismo organizza un viaggio particolare per turisti da Darjeeling a Ghum e ritorno con sosta a Batasia Loop,dove c'� un monumento ai soldati Gorkha dell'Indian Army . Il biglietto costa R200 e il treno parte da Darjeeling nella tarda mattina. Verificare in loco l'orario esatto..

    La funivia

    Dalla Stazione funicolare di Darjeeling al villaggio di Tukvar con splendida vista sulle piantagini da t�. La Tariffa � di R60.50 andata e ritorno, 0,50 sono per i bagni. La corsa dura quindici minuti. Da Chowrasta alla Stazione della funicolare ci sono quaranta minuti di passeggiata per la Jawahar Road. In bassa stagione non sempre il servizio � attivo.

    Passeggiare a Darjeeling

    Non � necessario avere un'attrezzatura tecnica bastano solo un paio di scarpe comode. Le colline intorno alla citt� sono piene di piantagioni per cui ci si muove sulle strade delle stesse attraversando anche piccoli villaggi. Ci sono ache baracche che offrono bevande, piccole scuole e gente che cerca di fare conversazione a fondo valle un bel fiume..

    da Darjeeling a Singla Bazaar
    (confine del Sikkim). cinque ore di cammino in discesa lungo la collina sono circa 23 kilometri. Da 2100 m to 230 m.Si parte presto e si ritorna in Jeep l'ultima per Darjeeling � alle 14,30
    Il percorso
    Andare a Chowrasta Chowk (The Mall). Girare a sinistra in Jawahar Road, la strada del Windamere Hotel. Continuare su questa strada per 40 minuti, si scende lentamente si supera lo zoo. Prendere le scale sulla sinistra attraversare l'affollata Hill Cart Road e scendere la strada sulla sinistra con indicazioni Tukvar. Sempre diritto per 18 kilometri fino a Singla Bazaar. Si passa per la Tukvar Tea Estate, i villaggi di Talagua e Barnasbeg e a Singla si attraversa il ponte sul Rangit River. Con il tempo bello si pu� anche nuotare.Se si perde la Jeep c'� poco traffico da queste parti.

    - Darjeeling - Pandam Tea Estate - Runggdung River - Darjeeling via Lebong Road.
    un percorso di cinque ore
    . Andare a Chowrasta Chowk (The Mall). Girare a destra per Tungsung Road . Tungsung road � quella a sinistra che scende ripida quando la strada si triforca diventa poi Pandam Tea estate Road. Seguire la strada fino alla piantagione Pandam Tea Estate Factory,con circa un'ora di cammino. Da qui su di un sentiero acciottolato erboso gi� fino al Rungdung River in un'ora e mezzo . Al ponte, girare a sinistra e salire per Lebong, passando per il villaggio di Harasing . In un ora e mezzo di ascesa si arriva a Lebong, si supera il Gorkha football stadium. Se si � stanchi sulla Lebong Hill Cart Road si possono prendere i taxi collettivi per Darjeeling (R5 per persona). Altrimenti si pu� continuare per Darjeeling per la C.R Das Road, circa altri 40 minuti di cammino passando per lo stadio.Quando si arriva alla Lebong Hill Cart Road, si gira a sinistra e si prosegue per 200m fino ad uno chalet tipo svizzero con il tetto verde.Si prende quindi un acciottolato che poi da su di una scalinata di cemento che arriva alla C.R. Das Road che porta a Chowrasta, Darjeeling.

    - Darjeeling to Pul Bazaar and Bijanbarri via the Singtom Tea Estate.
    7 miles to Bijanbari, seven miles back. 14 miles in all. 2100 meters to 760metres, and back up. Six hours walking, plus time to swim in river and eat a snack in roadside caf�. From Darjeeling there is a bus service to Bijanbari that takes almost three hours. But it is possible to walk via the Singtom Tea Estate to Bijanbari in almost the same time. You descent constantly, at times very steeply, from 2100 meters to 760 meters in just about two and a half hours of walking. Follow the Lebong Hill Cart Road out of Darjeeling and, before you reach St. Joseph's College (about 30 minutes walk out of the centre of Darjeeling), on the left hand side is a small road leading down hill, with a sign that reads, "Way to Sargam digital audio recording studio." If you cannot find this road, just ask anyone for Singtom Phatak. Once you are on this road just follow it all the way downhill for about one hour and forty-five minutes, down hill all the way to the river. Initially you pass through the built up suburb of Darjeeling and then the road passes through Singtom Tea Estate. After a further thirty minutes the road divides. You can take either route. One goes to the tea factory, the other through the workers' village. Continue walking downhill for about another hour. At the river you will see a hydro-electricity plant (ancient, Manchester-built turbines are on view if you peer inside) on your left hand side. Cross over the bridge, walk uphill and pass a small settlement on a stone/grass path and you will join the Darjeeling/Bijanbari Road. Another 10 minutes takes you over the bridge to Pul Bazaar. Turn left through the village and another 20 minutes will take you to Bijanbari. Return by the same route but when you finally get to the Lebong Cart Road, take a taxi back to save you 40 minutes walk at the end of the day through Darjeeling traffic. By the hydro electricity plant is a good place for a swim. Bijanbari has a market on Friday. Extensive interesting walks from Pul Bazaar and Bijanbari. See separate section.

    - Quick walk within Darjeeling.
    > To the Lloyds Botanical garden and the Happy valley Tea Estate. At Chowk Bazaar bus stand walk down Lochnagar Road (also called Garden way) to the Lloyds Botanical Garden. The gardens (like the town) occupy part of a steep hill and so they are intersected by lanes. The gardens house mostly trees and it is pleasant to walk the lanes; a bit of tranquility within the noisy town. Leaving the gardens, keep on the same road but descend. The road becomes a dirt road, passes a shrine and enters the Happy Valley Tea Estate. This is the closest estate to Darjeeling and offers conducted tours around its factory which you will pass immediately as you enter the estate. You can purchase their tea directly from the factory.

    - Tiger Hill Walk
    : From Chowraasta walk past the pony stables and when the road forks into three roads, take the middle road. This is T.N. Road. This is one of the few roads in Darjeeling where you won't have to climb steeply up on down, it is fairly level all the way. You'll pass a Buddhist cemetery and the Mak Dhok monastery. 1.5 kms out of Darjeeling the road divides into two. Take the right, upper road. 4 kms out of Darjeeling you reach the small village of Jorebunglow. Turn left at the junction and you'll see a signposted road for Tiger Hill. This road, which passes through the Senchal Wildlife Sanctuary, is a 5 km climb to the lookout tower, at 2590 metres. It is paved and the gradient is not steep. There are two other trails through the sanctuary and it is possible to hire guides to help you spot the wild animals.

    - Darjeeling to Rungdung River via Bannnockburn
    T.E. and back again (about 5.5 hours) : Walk to Lebong as described in Darjeeling to Singla Bazaar walk above. Take the steep downhill road that leads to the Gorkha stadium but instead of turning right into the stadium area, keep on the road as it turns left. Walk about 2 kms until just past an army barracks. On your right hand side you'll see a signposted track, Bannockburn T.E. Just keep on this track as it descends rapidly to the river. You will pass the tea factory, the estate workers' village and an area of forest as well. The track is mostly a reasonably sealed road, jeepable (although no vehicle will probably pass you). When the road finally stops, by a roofed storage area, turn right onto a very narrow track, climb up through a stand of bamboo and when you come to another area of tea bushes, descend the zigzagging path through the bushes to the edge of the river. I found it was not possible to actually climb down to the river, but if you are desperate for a swim you might have better luck than I. Return by retracing your steps. Alternatively, you might find it possible to turn right when you get to the river and follow the river until you reach, after about 2 kms, the Bailey Bridge mentioned in the ?? walk above. Then you can walk the road back to Lebong. If you carry on the main road pass the army barracks you will come, after another 1 km, to the village of Ging. Pass through the village and you will descend through thick bamboo stands. After about another 1 km an excellent view of the town of Jorethang and the Rangit River can be had, down at 270 metres. It is a long, meandering road downhill. Expect to take at least five hours.

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      India FAQ

      Don't panic

    We don't claim to be experienced travellers, indeed for one of us it was the first time outside of Europe and anything other than a 2 week package holiday. We found India to have a well established infrastructure for western travellers. You need just a little extra patience and consideration to have a wonderful experience. The transport and the range of guest houses in some ways eclipse those you will find at home (except in speed and luxury) and you will comfortably get by with English in any established tourist town or city. There is little (nothing?) to fear in travelling in this fascinating land - particularly as a couple (although single or groups of women will attract more attention than they will appreciate nearly everywhere).

    What to take

    As little as possible!. You can buy just about everything when you are out there. Perhaps the only area in which buying in India is neither cheaper nor easily available is technical equipment (i.e. found in camping/trekking shops, although in Nepal, these abound). Take as small a rucksack as possible - we used 40 litre bags - they take less carrying and make bus travel particularly so much easier if you need to squeeze on (you will!).

    Clothes

    Bare minimum - if you buy out there, you blend in better anyway. During winter months the North and the hills/mountains in the South do get cold at night, but at all other times light weight cotton is best. Respect their culture - discreet clothing for women especially. For foot wear - comfortable sandals are all you need.

    Medicine
    Buy everything there - all the basics and much more available over the counter without prescription and at a fraction of the cost. This particularly applies to Malaria tablets - Indian doctors recommend just the weekly Chloroquine, easily available at a few rupees per packet.

    Stomach Upset

    A regular topic of conversation with both fellow travellers and the locals and everyone has there own opinions on how to cure the 'runs' (and you won't escape getting them). We tried many natural remedies, but the only effective treatment for us was the specific intestinal antibiotic Norfloxacin - again, easily available at any chemist.
    Camera-films

    Specialist camera equipment is only available in the major cities at equivalent UK prices (although Kathmandu has real bargain prices). Film is good quality (Fugi/Kodak), generally fresh, cheap, and easily available everywhere- buy there.

    Also buy there

    Mosquito net (about 2 GBP - essential), bed sheet and books.

    But bring to you

    Alarm clock, pen knife, sewing kit, clothes line, ear plugs, batteries within reason (can buy easily and cheaply but even Duracell branded are poor quality in India), lock with retractable steel cable (for securing luggage on night trains), inflatable/travel pillow (but not the neck shape type), binoculars, document/money pouch and a large foldout map of India. Above all travel as light as possible - you will congratulate yourself every single day.

    Email-Internet

    Now huge in India, particularly on all well trodden travellers paths. Connection can be slow but you will rarely fail to find a selection of Internet cafes. Good tip is to duplicate records of Travellers Cheque numbers, passport and plane details, etc. on your Yahoo/Hotmail account.
    Money

    Take travellers cheques, Sterling or Dollars (or combination - change whichever has the best rate at the time). As regards budget, we didn't do it as cheap as some we met but always tried to get a good deal. We usually took rooms with bathroom attached in the budget or lower/moderate sections of the guide (200-300 rupees/ 3 to 5 GBP) and ate well. We managed on 1000 rupees per day (15 GBP) between the two of us, including transport, tobacco and most presents.

    Tobacco

    Indian cigarettes are very cheap (especially in the South) and quite tolerable . Avoid Four Square brand as they reputedly still use asbestos in their filters!. We smoked rollups - Samson is the most commonly available - but only in larger cities and established traveller hangouts, budget on 170 rupees a packet (3 GPB), Rizlas easily found at the same time.

    Guidebooks

    The Rough Guide was the one for us (although 90% had Lonely Planet, this is good as you can avoid the crowd). We liked the Rough Guide's attitude and travel suggestions. OK, so its not cool carrying either guide around but you will find them essential. Don't be afraid to look outside their suggestions, particularly on hotels, there are many gems not in the guide which offer better value. Your eyes and instincts are the best adjudicators.

    Travel

    Trains are best for long distances but don't underestimate the average travel speed - just 50 kilometres per hour, even on express trains. The book cum timetable "Trains at a glance" is useful and available at the stations and try and book early if you are going by sleeper as some route are busy -a few days in advance is usually OK. Queuing for tickets at the stations can be frustrating - the best bet is to use a travel agent who will charge 50 rupees per ticket and save you the hassle. We used 2nd class-sleepers throughout - it's an experience you get used to and 1st class isn't really worth the extra. Bus travel is also something you will undoubtedly adapt to and while trains can be frustratingly infrequent, you will rarely wait more than a few minutes for the next bus. The roads are dangerous however, and only consider travelling at night if absolutely essential. They are not only uncomfortable but the drivers often use alcohol or drugs to keep themselves awake - accidents are disturbingly common. Either way, you journey will be crowded, often ridiculously so, and by western standards incredibly cheap. It's integral to your Indian experience. Apart from 3 weeks in Nepal, we spent 6 months in India and still only experienced a fraction of the 'Guide Book' India, let alone all that lies off the beaten track. Many travellers we met had allocated less time for India fitting into their 6 months other Asian countries. We don't regret our plan however, often it was the extra couple of days we spent in each place that were the most rewarding - you have seen the 'sites', the extra time lets you absorb the atmosphere. It's no fun rushing around! - India doesn't let you. If you are spending less time, then concentrate on one or two areas, travelling from North to South in one chunk is not something that should be considered lightly as journey time (2+ days) and recovery period will hit hard. Be organised, the pace of travel in India is very different to western countries - it might be a few inches on the map, but it's bound to take you the best part of the day (or more) to get there.

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    FAQ

      Bodhgaya

    On our way from Varanasi to the mighty Himalayas in Nepal, we stopped briefly into Bodhgaya, high worshiping place for buddhists. The majority of people were gorgeously young and muscular tibetan monks dressed in purple and orange, head shaven. Circulating around the main stuppa, we suddenly understood the reason of their extreme fitness: the main religious activity was to lower oneself rapidly onto a plank of wood, muttering a prayer, standing up quickly and repeating the gestures "ad infinitum". Really impressive use of the body to reach the stillness of the soul... It was a touching experience to sit under the famous tree and feeling the nearly martial dedication of the believers around us. Our main memory though is falling ill in perfect synchronisation, and staying mostly in bed under lots of covers, feverish and losing appetite. By amazing coincidence, as we managed to reach a restaurant to try to swallow some soup, we bumped into someone met 5 years ago in London.... KARMA OR WHAT? Mahabhodi temple Buddha's enlightment is said to have taken place under a bodhi tree in Bodhgaya, after a night of contemplation during which he resisted the wordly temptations set before him by the demon, Mara. Soon afterwards he gave his first sermon in Sarnath, now a major pilgrimage centre. For the rest of his life he taught, expounding Dharma, the true nature of the world, human life and spiritual attainment. A large stupa was built at the emplacement of the dodhi tree, where hundreds of monks recite prayers and meditate.

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    il toy train

    DELHI Final destination, the capital of India, with strong Muslim influence from its Mughal past. As always, cities are at their most unwelcoming when arriving in the morning on a slow sweaty night train. We passed miles and miles of shanty town at the exact moment before breakfast when India goes for a poo. The smell and these rows of naked bums were well too much after a bad night sleep... As with Bombay and Chennai, the huge shanty towns sprawl around the city and disappear when you arrive in the centre. We found Delhi a paradoxical city: rich/poor, congestions/calm, the classic stories of capitals. Groomed lawns and well tended houses around the smart districts were a usual sight, as was the overtly British architecture such as the commercial district of Connaught Place. The Muslim market and the maze of Old Delhi where huge crowds coexist in rundown buildings. Cycle rickshaws everywhere (but banned from the financial quarters), an old bull pulling a cart in front of a designer name shop. We stayed in the Paharganj district where most travellers stay, lovely mix of working class locals, high speed internet cafes and colour TV in the hotel room. Sitting along chai stalls, we saw the biggest number ever of westerners, some so obviously freshly arrived that our 6 months experience made us grin at their sight. We saw street kids sniffing glue, beautiful women with this Capital touch of daring to be different, the best rickshaw drivers, skyscrapers with revolving restaurants, business men speaking only in english, an impressive hippopotamus in the zoo. By that time, we were filled with apprehension and excitement at the idea of returning back to England, and as the temperature went higher and higher during this last week in Delhi (up to 42 degrees, end of April, when the Monsoon is building up), we lived it in a kind of haze. People slept on their rooftop at night to find a bit of fresh air, and rumours went around of a monkey-man attacking sleepers all over the city. Intense heat create intense paranoia, the newspapers said. We were off! We would love to come back, this time to stay in one place (buying a camel in Pushkar's fair, exploring the extreme north or staying in an ashram for a long while...)

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    Talking Magical

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    well

    Planning, organisation & difficulties encountered It took me nearly five months to plan the trip to India, nearly as long as it took to save up to go there. I enjoyed reading all the books and websites I could find. In the end I planned everything myself: where we would go, how we would get there, where we would stay and what we would see. Then I turned the whole plan over to an Indian tour company, TCI, so that I didn't have to do the actual bookings and organisation myself. On the whole we were very pleased with the service they gave us. Some of the choices we made were different from those often made by travellers to India. A lot of people just set off with the idea of arranging everything when they arrive. This is almost certainly cheaper and means you have the fun of figuring out a foreign country's way of working the hard way. I was often glad that I had made those pre-bookings and had the tour reps to help me through daily life, since it left me free to concentrate on the amazing sights that I had heard so much about and also to learn how things work through relaxed observation rather than frantic experience. We only had five weeks in India and Nepal which is really a very short time, but we managed to see a huge number of things. Towards the end of our stay, I was feeling pretty comfortable in India, and another time I might do less planning. We also spent at least as much money on hotels as we would have done if travelling in Europe. Although this made our trip rather expensive it's another thing I don't regret. It's very easy to suffer from over-stimulation in India before you get used to it: the noise, the people, the dirt. The hotels we stayed in tended to be quiet and peaceful oases to which we could retreat and relax before heading out again. This is what made the trip into a holiday, rather than an upheaval. It all depends what you're looking for. Although I did a lot of planning, I was forewarned that things were not necessarily going to go according to plan (though mostly they did). Once our trip actually started I was completely laid back about everything. People's response to a lot of things depend on their individual attitudes, the following mishaps and inconveniences happened to us: We had a lot of trouble with our flight to Katmandu (this is the sort of trouble we were expecting. In retrospect, losing that day in Katmandu was the most disappointing mishap but I'm sure we'll be back there); Our credit card number got stolen and we are still sorting it out 6 months down the road (for some reason this doesn't seem to upset either of us much); We both got sick once, and spent quite a bit of the rest of the time feeling not exactly queasy, but not quite ourselves, maybe due to the malaria tablets (this didn't bother me much but Mike still talks about it); Mike disliked: mosquitoes, hawkers, travelling by car because of the potholes and lack of suspension, and dirt and litter everywhere; I disliked: leeches, walking around on the streets because of the traffic and lack of sidewalks, the frequent absence of wine at dinner, and the fact that the quality of the food was generally inversely proportional to the cleanliness of the table cloth; We both disliked: tipping since we had no idea how much we should give, and being taken shopping by guides and drivers to those dreadful tourist shops. on the other hand; We enjoyed: getting our laundry done regularly, being able to afford room service, almost everything we ate, talking to almost everyone we met and all the sights and cities we saw. We took the Palace on Wheels and you might wonder what we though of that and whether it was worth it. I certainly wondered before we went, so here are my conclusions. It was virtually the only way to see everything we wanted in Rajasthan in the time available, and it was out of the question that we could have more time. From that point of view, it had to be worth it, I wouldn't have wanted to miss anything we saw for the world. It was undoubtedly the most comfortable travelling we did in India and we had done a lot by that time. As a hotel/restaurant it also compared favourably with others we had been in. It was very well planned and organised, the schedule was quite tightly packed which is what we wanted, the guides were of well above average quality. We enjoyed the train food, but got a bit tired of the buffets in the hotels. Certainly, we were touring in very large groups and that sort of thing has some inherent disadvantages that you can either live with or not. You have next to no freedom to do anything of your own accord. Actually, it also has some advantages, since it is much easier to avoid the hawkers by hiding in the middle of the herd. Some shopping is built in to every day, but on the one hand, you are likely to get that anyway, unless you manage to avoid any contact with Indians whatsoever on your trip, and on the other the shops had been selected for quality and value rather better than any others I was hauled along to without being asked. Also we never felt that we were being rushed round the sights as quickly as possible so we could get to the shops, as we did on a few other occasions. True, there were places where we, individually, might have spent longer, but we felt that on the whole the group was ready to go. Our travelling companions were much more interesting than we had imagined. Many of them had been in India working for several months and were offering themselves a leaving treat. There were a few Indians, clearly extremely rich. I think it very likely that due to economic changes in the world an experience of this sort will eventually pass completely out of our reach financially. After all, its very borderline already. As such, there was certainly an element of 'seize the day' and it's something I'll be glad to tell my grandchildren (if any) about! Top Books & web sites Travel books: The Lonely Planet guide to India - the one everyone swears by, but I have often found the Lonely Planet very negative. Haven't you ever read an entry in there and wondered why on earth you would want to visit that place! Footprint India Handbook by Robert and Roma Bradnock - a highly recommended alternative and the book we actually took with us. A variety of other French published travel books that compared very favourably with both the above. Berlitz guide to India - recommended if you are trying to get an introduction to India with a view to planning a trip, if you will be just passing through, or if you have a business trip with some free time thrown in. Non-fiction: Karma Cola by Gita Mehta - an Indian's perspective on some of the strange things westerners get up to in her country. Snakes and Ladders also by Gita Mehta - an Indian's perspective on some of the strange things Indians get up to in her country. The Age of Kali by William Dalrymple - a British journalist's close up look at people in the Indian news. Cows, pigs, wars and witches by Marvin Harris - although only the first chapter is about India, this is a really good book anyway. A cultural history of India by A.L. Basham - bought in India, pretty interesting. Monde Indien by Larousse - simple rundown on Indian geography with nice pictures (in French). In the Skin of an Untouchable by Marc Boulet - about a French guy who disguises himself as an Indian beggar for a few months to see what it's like. Despite his claim to having succeeded in becoming Indian it strikes me that he failed to have a single thought that was not French to the core. Yoga Techniques by Mercia Eliade - detailed discussion of the history and development of a very specific part of Indian religious life. Warning! this is a 'serious' book devoid of rosy pink prose and exercise sequences. Culture Shock India by Gitanjali Kolanad - not very deep but definitely better than no preparation at all. Novels: The God of Small Things by Arundhati Roy - very sad but very good book. Hullabaloo in the Guava Orchard by Kiran Desai - funny, sensual and much lighter than the above. Picture books: Indian Interiors, published by Taschen. India Unveiled by Robert Arnett - a very attractive pleasant book, with quite a religious or spiritual orientation. Web sites: travel-library.com is my favourite travel site. I read everything on there concerning India! I used a variety of travel and hotel guide sites to check out plane times and hotel details, but I suggest you search around as these have evolved a bit since the time of my trip. tcindia.com is the site for the travel company we used.

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    Agra Jim: To get to Agra, I had to back track to Delhi, spend the night, and then catch the morning train: all because the airport was closed. I arrived about 10:00 a.m. and was escorted to the Trident Hotel. Phil: I didn't stay in Agra, but took a taxi to and from Agra for a day trip to the Taj Mahal. Taxi was a big mistake - take the train, it has to be more pleasant! Delhi Jim: In DELHI: we stayed at B-57 Inn (phone 4632914 or 4694239; approx 1200R). In a residential area, it is quieter than Connaught Circle. Rooms are pretty. Showers have "geysers," meaning individual water heaters--an essential in the North. Also, the shower was in a separate stall, not the typical showerhead-in-middle-of-bathroom that you find in India. Great Chinese restaurant on Ring road, a 4 block walk away called Jade Princess�Very fresh food. We had the vegetarian stir-fry. Restaraunt is run by Tibetans and cooking was really superb. Hotel Cosmo was in the 700R range (phone 5756299 or 5783599). Clean rooms; a/c; geysered shower, but a little loud. Then again, you learn to sleep with earplugs in India. My husband also stayed at Yatri House and said it was clean and quiet. Yatri House (and Master Paying Guest House) are very popular places to stay, so if you plan to stay there, make reservations far in advance. Yatri sometimes gets reservations a year in advance for the time around Christmas. So my advice is: once you get your tickets to fly into Delhi, call Yatri and make a reservation. Do not wait until 2 weeks before you leave. My husband waited, and he ended up getting into Yatri for 2 nights and having to move to another hotel for the final night. All 3 hotels, Cosmo, Yatri, and B-57 have Western style toilets. [Note: if you are sensitive to soap, bring soap from home. Two of the three main Indian brands of soap we saw in hotels gave me a rash. The third, an Ayurvedic soap, was fine.] Yatri House is great and good value (and QUIET, relatively -- not like the stuff in Connaught ). Anyway, call the place, make reservation WELL ahead if it's Yatri as the Lonely Planet reference makes them very popular (nuther good reason to have the other book handy), and have them send a cab to meet you there. If your plane gets in five hours late, chances are STILL that the cab will be waiting. In terms of luxury hotels, we had reservations at, but didn't stayin, the Ambassador. Rate was about $80 US. Hotel looked quite nice. (We didn't stay because we left Delhi early.) Some luxury hotels want you to make a deposit in India to keep the room. Also, when we left Delhi, Radisson was building a hotel near the airport. Call Radisson 1-800 number for details. Restaraunt-wise, in addition to Jade Princess on Ring Road, I'd recommend Host (in Connaught Circle--all the rickshaw drivers know where Host is). It had very good Muglai food. Also, Karim's in Nizamuddin West had great Muglai Food. Husband also raves about a pastry shop in Connaught, but I don't remember the name. Nirula's had good pizza, he says. This was a nice touch when he was first getting used to India. Most people want to get the hell out of Delhi and enjoy other cities in India. Delhi is quite pollutted and big. If U have only 3 weeks in India, I would not spend more than 1-2 days in Delhi, and I would use that time to equilibrate to the time difference. But that's just my personal opinion. Others like Delhi. We had a very good travel agent in Delhi. You can take an autorickshaw to his office or just call him. They were helpful in making all sorts of arrangements and also with aiport and train station pickups. Hanif Kawa of Highland Tours & Travel; 2,Bhagat Singh Market, New Delhi. Phone (11)334-3430 or 336-0217. If Hanif is not in, ask for KamalGupta, his boss, who is also very good. We had a very helpful, knowledgable travel agent in Delhi, who charges very reasonable prices: Hanif Kawa of Highland Tours & Travel; 2,Bhagat Singh Market, New Delhi. Phone (11)334-3430 or 336-0217. Highland is able to arrange trips to Rajisthan, tours of the "Golden Triangle": Delhi, Agra, and Jaipur, tours of Delhi area, etc. Hanif has lived in Delhi for several years now, but his family is from Kashmir, so he can do all sort of Kashmir tours (light hikes to full treks), he told us. Highland was able to arrange for reasonable hotel rates for us on short notice--it seemed that they got a discount--and they picked us up at the airport and train station. This was a great service, as in Delhi, most of the taxi drivers are waiting to rip you off big time. We primarily used Hanif and his office to set up drivers for us in Delhi, as well as some hotels and airport pickups. We hired drivers for 1/2 day in Delhi, but they can do full days and driving tours of Rajisthan, etc. Best of all, Hanif is a very nice person--very friendly and easy to deal with. Hanif took great care of us and worked with us in planning the kind of trip we wanted. This is the reason we are recommending him. He helped us a lot on our trip to India in October-December 1996. If Hanif is not available, ask for Kamal Gupta, his boss. Kamal was also very helpful. He grew up in Delhi, and spent time studying in the U.S. Because he is a Delhi-man, he is very good at arranging things in Delhi. (S Hanif is no longer with them, alas -- but Kamal's a good guy. He won't rip you off unless you really WANT to hire an expensive car tour of Rajasthan. ) I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to have your travel agent or hotel send a driver to pick you up at the airport when you arrive in the country. The touts really will rip you off. There are stories of people being driven to Agra "because there are no hotel rooms in Delhi" and we met people who had paid $100 cab fares. When we made our hotel reservations for the first night in Delhi, we asked the hotel to send a driver. It cost about $20-30 U.S. After that, we had our travel agent pick us up. Also I used three of my Ben's for charity -- to a Swami I met who was a the friend of a family and I knew was real (prostheses for kids type stuff), and to a homeopath named Dr. Qasim who's a really good guy and who also helps poor kids. Qasim's worth seeing for some homeopathy to ease trip. Say hi if you go (Delhi). Dr, Mohammed Qasim 1 Basti Hazrat Nizamuddin (near Police station -- have driver take you there, it's a long way from Connaught Place) New Delhi 110013 work: 011-91-11-463-6161 home: .................. 684-9199 Phil: Delhi was my first in India, so I went for luxury for the first two days. I stayed at the Connaught Hotel, which is rated as a high-end, four star hotel. It had the whole 'mint on the pillow' number, but it still seemed a little worn around the edges. I quickly realized if this is the high end in India, I'm about to have some interesting adventures! It had an excellent breakfast buffet. It is also nicely located in the outer Connaught Circle area, and you can walk in various directions to some interesting shopping venues, some in back alleys (but well lit and safe). Lots of excellent restaurants nearby also. Security guards keep away the beggars. Another hotel that I would definitely recommend is the Hotel Janpath (332-0070). It is a state run hotel that is 3-4 stars but considerably cheaper than the 4 stars hotels nearby. Rooms are large, nice restaurants, classy place, relatively speaking. It was during my stay at the Janpath (note: this is not the Janpath Guest House), that I became very ill, and was down for several days, staring at the ceiling of my hotel stricken in my bed. The hotel sent for a doctor, which was so cool - house calls!!! I really liked Delhi, despite the absolutely, horrific, nightmarish pollution problem during November, I couldn't see past 40 yards or so Delhi is one of the top 5 cities in the world for pollution - in my book, it is probably the worst. If you're into temples and architecture, do check out the Laksmi Narayan Mandir, The Humayan Tomb, The Bahai Lotus Temple, and the Chartarpur temple complex in South Delhi. A little time spent in the intensity Old Delhi will give you greater appreciation of the spaciousness of the Connaught Circle area. For my early trip, I used Sun and Snow Travel, a family business, probably run by the two brother now, Anil and Mohit Bhatia. (91-11-576-3657). Not the cheapest but they gave me great service, meeting me once in the dead of night to find me a hotel room. They invited me to their home for a party with several other Americans, and it was a learning experience to witness extended family life in India. Varanasi Phil: I came to Varanasi expecting to stay for a few days, and ended up staying over a week. Varanasi, considered the holiest city in India, has a powerful mesmerizing effect on one, particularly the area around the Ganges. A very powerful place. Based on a friend's advice, I stayed near the Asi Ghat, the southernmost ghat in the city. I booked far in advance Hotel Ganges View, as it has become quite the popular place for westerners. And when you stay there, you'll understand why. The rooms are very 'cute' and nicely decorated (though small), and there's a nightly meal that the hotel serves which is a good forum to mingle with the other guests. The owner is a very interesting fellow (and his little white dog). The hotel has a nice veranda to watch the the Ganges and the people meandering to the Asi Ghat next door. Nice little lunch place next door. Varanasi has some very aggressive monkeys, so beware. Telephone number: 0091-0542-313218. If you want to stay near the Asi Ghat, I recommend the Sahi Guest House next door the the Ganges View, very cheap. I stayed there for a couple of days when I lost my room at the Ganges View, and it was very inexpensive. Another recommended place is Hotel Temple On The Ganges, a block away from the Asi Ghat. This hotel is a 6 story structure, and is a major hangout for Europeans heavily into yoga. Try to get a room facing the Ganges, more expensive, but Varanasi is cheap compared to other Indian cities. Telephone: 0091-542-312340 The rooftop restaurant at the Hotel Temple on The Ganges is an excellent place to hangout for an extended lunch during the blistering midday sun of Varanasi, with great views of the Holy Ganges. It's definitely worth it to take several morning tours to watch the locals bathe in the Ganges, once you get over the, "I'm such a voyeur to be watching people bathe!" phase. In fact, using the boat taxis is an excellent way to get around Varanasi, and cuts out having to negotiate the chaos of the city streets. Spend some time in Goudalia, the 'old city', considered by some to be the oldest city in the world. It is hot, narrow, and smells something awful, but it is a very fascinating place, to see a cityscape that existed long before any modern form of technology (including sewage treatment!). Another worthwhile destination is the Manikarnika (or 'Burning') Ghat, where many people are cremated on the shores of the Ganges, considered extremely auspicious by Hindus. Look, but have respect. If you have the time, I recommend a taxi drive to Sarnath, the birthplace of Buddhism. You will get a sense of the multi-cultural nature of Buddhism in contrast to the marriage of Hinduism and Indian culture.

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