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| ~ BREED ~ |
| HISTORY, STANDARD, TRAINING & SOCIALIZING |
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 HISTORY |
Being bred for a gamekeepers night dog the Bullmastiff
which is "60% Mastiff and 40% Bulldog" dates back to the 1860's when
a strong loyal dog was needed to guard estates in England from poachers.
The bullies job was to catch and pin their prey only until their master arrived,
and with great strength speed and agility they were very good at their job.
Since then Bullmastiffs are used for a number of things, therapy dogs, obedience
and show dogs and still a guard dog. Whether it be a show dog or a family pet
the Bullmastiff is loyal and true no matter what you ask of him and is a breed
well worth any effort.
The Bullmastiff breed is one of great intelligence and beauty, with a square build
of big bone and solid muscle it is not something to be underestimated. Their laid-back
personality can be something to be recognized if their family or themselves are
threatened.
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| STANDARD |
General Appearance
That of a symmetrical animal, showing great strength, endurance,
and alertness; powerfully built but active. |
Size, Proportion, Substance
*Size:
Dogs, 25 to 27 inches at the withers, and 110 to 130 pounds weight.
Bitches, 24 to 26 inches at the withers, and 100 to 120 pounds weight.
Other things being equal, the more substantial dog within these limits is favoured.
*Proportion:
The length from tip of breastbone to rear of thigh exceeds the height from withers
to ground only slightly, resulting in a nearly square appearance. |
Head
*Expression: Keen, alert, and intelligent.
*Eyes: Dark and of medium size.
*Ears: V-shaped and carried close to the cheeks, set on wide and high,
level with occiput and cheeks, giving a square appearance to the skull; darker
in color than the body and medium in size.
*Skull: Large, with a fair amount of wrinkle when alert; broad, with cheeks
well developed. Forehead flat.
*Stop: Moderate.
*Muzzle: Broad and deep; its length, in comparison with that of the entire
head, approximately as 1 is to 3. Lack of foreface with nostrils set on top of
muzzle is a reversion to the Bulldog and is very undesirable. A dark muzzle is
preferable.
*Nose: Black, with nostrils large and broad.
*Flews: Not too pendulous.
*Bite: Preferably level or slightly undershot. Canine teeth large and set
wide apart. |
Neck, Topline, Body
*Neck: Slightly arched, of moderate length, very muscular,
and almost equal in circumference to the skull.
*Topline: Straight and level between withers and loin.
*Body: Compact. Chest wide and deep, with ribs well sprung and well set
down between the forelegs.
*Back: Short, giving the impression of a well balanced dog.
*Loin: Wide, muscular, and slightly arched, with fair depth of flank.
*Tail: Set on high, strong at the root, and tapering to the hocks. It may
be straight or curved, but never carried hound fashion. |
Forequarters
*Shoulders: Muscular but not loaded, and slightly
sloping.
*Forelegs: Straight, well boned, and set well apart; elbows turned neither
in nor out.
*Pasterns: Straight, feet of medium size, with round toes well arched.
Pads thick and tough, nails black. |
Hindquarters
Broad and muscular, with well developed second thigh denoting
power, but not cumbersome. Moderate angulation at hocks. Cowhocks and splay feet
are serious faults. |
Coat
Short and dense, giving good weather protection. |
Color
Red, fawn, or brindle. Except for a very small white spot
on the chest, white marking is considered a fault. |
Gait
Free, smooth, and powerful. When viewed from the side, reach
and drive indicate maximum use of the dog's moderate angulation. Back remains
level and firm. Coming and going, the dog moves in a straight line. Feet tend
to converge under the body, without crossing over, as speed increases. There is
no twisting in or out at the joints. |
Temperament
Fearless and confident yet docile. The dog combines the reliability,
intelligence, and willingness to please required in a dependable family companion
and protector.
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| PREY
DRIVE |
Prey drive is something you get in every dog, in every breed.
Although with certain breeds if it is not taken under control at a very early
age, can definitely cause problems.
A person owning a Bullmastiff should "NEVER"
allow their puppy to chase a person or another animal. This will only enhance
the "Prey Drive" and as an adult dog can do serious damage when they
can catch whatever it is they are chasing.
You should also "NEVER" rough house or wrestle
with your puppy, this will also increase the prey drive and sooner or later when
the puppy turns into a dog it can very easily decide that "rough housing"
is a threat and can become a problem.
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| TRAINING
& SOCIALIZING |
Early socializing and training is a must for Bullmastiffs.
They must start learning from an early age what is acceptable and what is not.
They must meet and see as many people, noises, and animals that is possible. Obedience
is a must for any of my puppy buyers and I will not take no as an answer, you
simply just won't get a dog.
Most people do realize the importance of obedience training and enjoy taking their
puppies to class. Bullies are easily trained and very eager to please. Most people
enjoy having the smartest dog in class.
Having Bullies well adjusted to situations makes them a much nicer addition to
your family and a much nicer dog in general to be around.
Remember don't let your puppy do what you don't want your adult dog to do. If
you have children, allow them to be part of the training program. Teach your children
the proper way to treat and train your puppy, make sure everyone in your home
uses the same command for the same thing.
When training your dog be sure to be consistent and patient, don't expect your
dog to do any more or any less than a child of the same age, basic common sense
will usually prevail. |
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