THE TUTU BODICE (Con't)

After getting your princess line bodice- it's a good idea to do some prototypes first (ie use cheap fabric like calico). You want the thing to actually fit properly- that means that the hem of the bodice, when finished (remember to leave seam allowance) sits ON the hipbone. It may be slightly above, but please, not below! Yes, tutus are hipsters! Old King Louie way back in the 17'th century had no idea the fashion trend his hobby would have on the rest of the world!

Aside from getting the thing to fit properly -if you plan on using an insert, USE IT NOW. If you don't use it during the prototype, the neckline distorts, as anything cut on a diagonal (ie bias) will stretch. Bad! Oh, now is probably a good time to mention that yes, please cut the bodice out on the grain.

Just another note- you may have to put some darts in, unless you're working with one-way stretchy fabric (please make it stretchy along the weft, not the warp! The tulle can get quite heavy- we don't want the skirt around the knees, do we? lol).

In case you wanted to know more about the variations on the previous page, no, I don't have the paper patterns for any of them, and yes, it's very possible that no-one else has either. You're going to have to draft this by yourself, and this is where it really does get to be a pain in the butt.

Variation one (basic princess line) is actually not very difficult. Just make sure it finishes on the hips, and is not too tight or too lose on the hips.

Variation 2 (Princess line at waist, then shaped waistline with basque- bit between 'bodice' and 'skirt') is probably the most difficult. I've decided that it's so ridiculous to do by one's own self that I actually had to do a page on this, complete with pictures.
See it by clicking here.

Variation 3 ('V' shaped seamlines in lieu of princess line) is the one I did. I did this by literally cutting away at the Side Front pieces and adding it onto the Front pieve until I got what I wanted. A bit daring, considering that it really could have stuffed up somewhere along the way, but it ended out alright. I did leave the back as a normal princess line though!

After you've sorted out your bodice, make sure again that it sits in a STRAIGHT LINE around the body, WITH seam allowance, you're ready to cut into your real fabric. Remember that an average princess line bodice needs about half a metre of fabric for your average teenage girl. Adjust accordingly.

Also, you want to work with a relatively heavy fabric. If you want to use a lighter fabric for the colour (I actually ended up using polyester organza, believe it or not) back it with a heavier fabric like Duchess Satin.

You can use boning (feel free to use self-casings, or fold over the seam allowances of either lining or fabric proper, even on interfacing if you want) but don't go overboard- because boning does restrict movement, and if they have to bend over, or contract....

You're ready for the panties! Click Here

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