Sonoma Coast State Beach
Distance: 4.6 miles round-trip/2 hours Level: Easy
Elevation Change: 500 feet
Directions: From Highway 1 in Bodega Bay, drive north for seven miles to the Shell Beach parking lot on the west side of the road. The trail begins on the northwest side of the parking lot (a separate trail section begins on the southwest side). Refer to preceding Porno Canyon Trail map, Sonoma Coast State Beach encompasses 13 miles of shoreline stretching from Bodega Bay to the Russian River. Located north of Marin County's coastline and west of the Sonoma County towns of Petaluma and Santa Rosa, the Sonoma Coast is on the road to few other places. This is one of many factors that makes the shoreline here so appealing.
The best way to get to know this coast is to take a walk on the Kortum Trail, which skirts grassland bluffs from Blind Beach to Wright's Beach over a distance of 3.8 miles one-way. By starting in the middle of the trail at Shell Beach, you can follow the scenic northern length of trail for a 4.6-mile, out-and-back round-trip.
The path is named for environmentalist and veterinarian Bill Kortum, who volunteered for 30 years to protect this stretch of coast. Numerous issues threatened the region, including the planned building of a nuclear power plant at Bedega Bay and the closure of public access to the coast at Sea Ranch. Thanks to the efforts of Kortum and others like him, thousand of acres of Sonoma coastline have remained unspoiled and open for enjoyment.
Heading north from the Shell Beach parking lot, you�ll immediately notice two parallel trails: The wider, more obvious path is routed slightly inland and runs a straighter course, while a narrower use trail meanders along the jagged edge of the bluffs. Take your pick; the paths eventually converge.
Kortum trail leads across classic California coastal bluff terrain, with open grasslands intersected by brushy drainages and ravines. Views of offshore outcrops and spring wildflowers are a feast for the eyes. Douglas iris, lupin and Indian paintbrush gild the grasslands from April to June. To ht south you can see Bodega Head and the northern tip of Point Reyes on clear days. To the west, the shimmering Pacific extends as far as your gaze can follow.
A highlight of the trip is a massive rock outcrop rising from the grasslands at 1.3 miles, which invites a climb to its summit. Coastal views are superb from the top of the lichen-covered, fern-dotted Pleistocene sea stack, which eons ago was buried undersea, before this marine terrace was uncovered. Beyond the rock, Kortum Trail leads away from the ocean and ascends a coastal hill (take the short spur to its summit for more views), then drops back down the other side, exposing views of the wave-pounded tunnel at Arched Rock. The path ends about 100 feet from Blind Beach's parking lot; you can take a short trail from the lot down to the beach. From there, it's a half-mile stroll north to Goat Rock Beach. Goat Rock, a massive offshore outcrop, is connected to the mainland by a paved road.
Bird watchers will want to bring binoculars for this hike. Raptors are a commonly seen hunting in the grasslands. Watch for harriers, red-shouldered hawks, black-shouldered kites, and even great homed owls. Don't be surprised if you see a human bird soar overhead as well. The coastal skies are the playground of local hang gliders.
Options
To extend your hike, follow the southern length of Kortum Trail from Shell Beach to Wright's Beach, adding three miles to your round-trip.' The trail drops steeply into Furlong Gulch at a half mile out, then switchbacks uphill on wooden stair steps. Thereafter the route curves inland, parallels Highway 1, and reaches popular Wright's Beach in 1.5 miles.
Those with less ambition might choose to take the short trail from Shell Beach parking lot down to Shell Beach, and finish out the day with a nap on the brayed tan sands.
Trip Notes
There is no fee. Dogs and bikes are not allowed. A trail map is available for $1 at park headquarters at Salmon Creek or at the kiosk at Wright's Beach. For more information, contact Sonoma Coast State Beach, Bodega Bay, CA 94923, 707/875-3483 or 707/865-2391, website: www.parks.sonoma.net.