PREPARATION
Days, weeks even almost a month. That's how long it took me to gather a sufficient amount of information to do this project. First thing on my mind was to get down the key factors of a duckling's diet, I didn't want to injure or deform the little guys. Unfortunately this is not as easy as it seems! I e-mailed countless numbers of ducky-people, amateurs and professionals alike.
(A BIG THANK YOU TO THEM!!!)
I rented library books that I had either stumbled upon or that people had recommended. I visited thousands of websites, copied and pasted any useful information then made a rather jumbled file full of it. I went to local farm shows (Fortunately my school has a small farm attached so I can get invovled with that sort of thing.) and got advice from breeders and buyers. Everyone had a different idea of what a duckling's main diet is, some were really varied. Some went against others, but fortunately they all had the same basics. Armed with this confusing information I slowley began to build up a menu for what would be the "Organic" half of my ducklings.
FOOD
What do Ducklings need?
This is what I eventually went by. Opinions may vary, but this was the one I used and it worked succesfully.
Minimum basic nutritional requirements for ducks

Nutrient                   Starter          Grower          Breeder
Protien %                   20                  17                16
Calcium %                   1                    1                  3
Fat %                          5                    5                  5
Methionine %               0.35                0.3               0.3
Phosphorous %            0.45                0.4               0.4
Manganese mg/kg       60                   50                40
Niacin mg/kg              55                   40                55
Pantothenic acid          15                   10                20
mg/kg
Pyridoxine mg/kg          3                     3                  3
Riboflavin mg/kg         10                     6                10
Vitamin A mg/kg      3100                1720            4130
Vitamin D3 mg/kg      300                   22.5             62.5
Vitamin K mg/kg            2.5                 2                  2.5
Energy kcals/kg        2850               2850             2650
Don't worry, I'll show you how I put all those numbers into practise a little further down.
What contains what??
Below is quite a large list of different plants and grains etc that contain proteins, carbohydrates etc. This has been gatherd from many sources but still, it's not the limit. This may help you to get a better understanding of why ducklings may need certain grains and not others for example.
Carbohydrates (energy) -

Birds require enegry, derived from Carbohydrates and fats. In general grains supply this requirment for carbohydrates and fats. Substances below all are high in carbohydrates and fats:

CORN - is especially high in Carbohydrates and fats. This makes corn a good feed for ducks that are raised for the market. But to prevent it from affecting the colour and taste of the meat, it should never make up more than 12% to 15% of the diet.

WHEAT - which contains 12.3% of raw protein, is the most protein rich grain. It plays a very important role in the diet of ducks both as a supplement to other feeds and as a component in commercial mixed feeds. If ducks are given too much wheat, the protein/carbohydrate balance in their diet may get upset and the food may not be used optimally

BARLEY - is not very popular with ducks because the grains are pointed and hard. That is why it is usually coarsly ground and fed in the form of groats. Since barley has a positive effect on meat production as well as on the quality of the meat, it should always form part of the diet of ducks that are raised for market.

UNHULLED OATS - are high in undigestable substances- fibre accounts for almost 10%- and are therefor not as rich in nutrients as other grains. But the roughage is important for proper digestion. Oats have a generally beneficial effect on all kinds of bodily processes. as is demonstrated by the fact that rolled oats are fed to young chicks of all the memebers of the poultry family. It has also been asserted that oat hulls in the diet discourage feather-eating. Oat hulls are also result in betterbreeding results, which is why oats should always be included in the diet of breeding ducks.

SPROUTED OATS - are often given to ducks during winter months as there is often limeted green food available.

RYE - even though most ducks are not fond of it, is an excellent feed grain. Their dislike is based not so much on taste but on the pointed shape of the kernals. It is best, therefore to feed the birds ground rye in a meal mixture.

MILLET - is available commercially in several varieties that differ considerably from eachother in appearance as well as in nutritional value.

MILO - because of it's high protein content, deserves to be singled out. It is a soughum that originally comes from Africa but is now grown extensivley in America. Milo is an excellent feed grain that can be given whole. It is often one of the ingredients in comercial feed mixes.

SPRAY MILLET - is not recommended for baby ducklings. Because of it's hard seed coat very little of the food value can be absorbed by the digestive system of very young chicks.

MIDDLINGS - are a byproduct of grain milling. When flour is produced, the outer cellulose wall of the kernals, as well as the bits of sticky layers undernieth, which are high in protein, are removed. Middlings are therefore a highly valuable animal feed. they are often mixed with boiled potatos for feeding ducks.

STALE BREAD - is often fed to ducks. It is high in carbohydrates and easily digested by the birds. Sometimes it is mixed with commercial feeds to complement the protein. Stale bread is soften in liquid before it is fed to ducks. It is not a staple diet, the equivalent to duck junk-food.

ACORNS - are high in carbohydrates. they are fed whole and unpealed to dabbling ducks, that is, ducks that gather food in shallow water. these ducks are very fond of acorns. I personally would suggest cutting them in half, just to be safe.

POTATOES - amoung the root vegetables, probably play the most important role in the diet of ducks. Ducks like potatoes which must, however be cooked and given in combination with proportion amounts of protein foods since potatoes are almost pure starch. If potatoes have sprouted during storage, the sprouting eyes must be cut out because the shoots contain solanin, which is poisonous. Potatoes are generally combined with meal to form a moist mash of crumbly consistency.

SUGAR BEETS - are chopped and steemed for feeding to ducks. Where market ducks are being raised on soft foods, sugar beets are regularly substituted for potatoes.

Grain substitutes include cooked root vegetables such as carrots, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, parsnipes, turnips, and sweet potato. Some root vegetables, such as sweet potato and carrot, are fine to eat raw, but they will need to be nailed or tied up on a wall for easier pecking. A traditional fattening food is one part bran to four parts cooked potato. the grated roots of mullein, a comon garden weed in Australia also make a fattening energy food.

Proteins -

As well as energy foods, birds need protein to develop. Proteins are based on 11 essential amino acids and other non-essential amino acids. Growing birds and layers require a diet composed of 15% - 16% protein, increasing to 18% in hot weather when they eat less. Chicks need a diet composed of 20% protein. Materials that contain protein are:

BLOOD MEAL - is probably the most protein rich food. A good brand contains as much as 86% to 90% protien. However, blood meal often has acids added to it and in this form is not well suited to ducks.

FISH MEAL - is made from whole fish and fish by-products and is manufactured by fish processing plants. It contains protiens that are esential in the diet of ducks. The crucial difference between various fish meals is their fat content, which also determines the price. If fat content is high the meal may get rancid if not used quickly enough. By the way, none of the good commercial poultry feeds relies exclusivley on fish meal for protein; some of the protein is always supplemented by meat meal.

MEAT MEAL - comes from the meat industry and is made up of the meat by products that are unsuitable for human consumption. It is a good protein supplement for mixed feeds. There is also a meat meal that comes from the cadavers of domestic animals that have died of natural causes. this meat is processed in accordance with health regulations that ensure that no diseases will be transmitted by it, and it can therefore be used as feed without worry.

DRIED SHRIMP - and shrimp meal contain 59% protein. These are often mixed into the soft foods of ornamental ducks, but they have to be soaked first because they are as hard as a rock when dry.

MILK PRODUCTS - with their easily digestable protein, also make good duck food. they can be fed in the form of buttermilk, cottage cheese, skim milk or whey. Freash pot or cottage cheese- which must however be dry- has been sucessfully used as an easily digestable componant in the first food eaten by baby ducklings. Skim milk and buttermilk are often mixed into the soft food given to ducks raised for market. Milk should be fed to ducks after it has soured and coagulated. nonfat powdered milk and dried whey are also a good source of protein and vitamins.

INSECTS - A good free source of tucker, high in protien. The birds love to eat them.

OTHERS - Wattle seeds are about 25% protein and can also be added to supplement the bird's diet.
       - Pigeon Peas can be used for around 25% of the diet, and alfalfa  and comfrey meal are also good. Sweet cassava leaves are high in protien, plus vitamin A.

Plant protiens tend to have less lysine and vitamin B12 than meat sources, fortunatly comfrey is the exception. Phosphorous is also low in plant materials, but can be supplied in the form of low fluoride rock phosphates. Do not give the birds raw phosphate.  

Greens -

Vitamins, minerals and trace elements are also esentail for health, but only small amounts are required. A natural alternative in a home mixed diet is to add dried, powdered seaweed, comfrey and/or nettle powder. Brewer's yeast can be added for protein and B vitamins. Wheat bran is another good ingrediant, providing protein, zinc, magnese and phosphorus. Cod liver oil, a good source of vitamin A can be added at weekly intervals. Mix it in with feed at the last minuate to avoid Oxidisation. The addition of other tonic herbs into the diet will also provide vitamins minerals and trace elements. see below for materials that contain vitamins, minerals and trace elements:

CARROTS - are also a nutritious food. Because they are so high in carotene they are often added to the diet of baby ducklings. they can be given steemed, chopped or grated and mixed into the soft food.

GREENS - are eaten enthusiastically. Grass does not have much food value but it does contain vitamins and trace elements, and it provides roughage wich is essential for the digestive process. Feed grass and other greens before they flower because, as the plants age, the proportion of crude fibre in them increases, making them harder to digest. If you give your ducks cut grass, you also have to watch out that the grass stems arn't too long. If long stems are swallowed whole, they may compact into balls in the lower, sack-like part of the gullet and cause a blockage that may be fatal. Young nettles, dandelions, yarrow and chickweed are some herbacious plants that can be chopped fine and added to soft food; they are eaten happily in this form by baby ducklings.

DUCK WEEDS - as the name suggests, are popular with ducks. these small free-floating aquatic plants always harbour innumerable small organisms that form an almost indepensible part of the rearing foods for the chicks or ornamental ducks. Duckweeds have to be very freash when fed to ducks. Pour them from a bucket into the duck's water basin and let them sift them out. If there are no green available for your ducks during winter, you may want to mix some finely chopped lettuce into their food occasionaly.

COMFREY - Protein rich comfrey, a nutritious tonic food, is a good source of the amino acids tryptophan, lysine and methionine. It also has high levels of potassium and calcium (more calcium than alfalfa). Comfrey has long been used for humans, pigs and poultry. Comfrey is unique amoung the plants in that it contains vitamin B12, an important vitamin for vegetarians. There is about half a microgram of B12 in every 100g of comfrey.

GARLIC - the medicinal actions are many. The regular addition (weekly or monthly) of finley chopped garlic to food or water is a good worm preventive. Garlic stimulates digestive organs, relieves catarrh, regulates liver and gall bladder, treats intestinal infections and bacteria, and benefits blood circulation and heart action. It is also the supreme disinfectant.

NETTLES - nettles are excellent for poultry as they promote good health, help to increase egg production and are very fattening. They are high in chlorophyll, iron, potassium, phosphorous, manganese, calcuim, sulfur, silica, protien and vitamins A, C and D. Nettles are also a preventative against worms and contagnion. A combination of powdered seaweed, comfrey and nettles is a powerful laying stimulant that, according to Juilette de Bairacli-Levy, can make non layers start to lay. When cut and witherd, nettles lose the formic acid which gives them their sting. Dry and powder them finley, and add them to food. You can also boil them for a few minuates to remove sting and add them to cereal mash. Nettles boiled in whey are fed to combat worms in poultry.

LUCERNE - also called alfalfa, is a valuable source of green pick and protein, providing vitamins A, D, K and E, plus riboflavin, pantothenic and nicotinic acid. It is a tough perennial, lasting several years. Dried and chaffed lucerne can be fed to birds.

SPROUTED OATS - provide many vitamins and minerals and are much more digestable than raw whole oats. To sprout oats, soak them in warm water for a few hours, then wet them briefly on a daily basis. If the sprouts are kept on a piece of shadecloth or onion bag it makes them easy to dip in water. When the sprouts develop, spread them out and let them soak up some sunshine.

Green feed is an important part of a natural diet. It provide extra protein, Vitamin A, calcuim, phosphorous, manganese and riboflavin. If birds don't have acess to free range, then give greens daily, about 50g per bird. Greens are most platable when young and succulent, and must be fed fresh.Many greens are worth growing especially for birds. Lucerne (alfalfa) can be grown in the summer, oats and barley in the winter. Canola, millet (use bird seed packages), chou moellier, silver beet, cabbage and a mixture of grasses and clovers can also be grown. To make the palatable, chaff orchop them up first. Don't just throw a large heap down, because it may go mouldy very quickly. Dispose of any unclean remains after 12 hours.

TONICS AND HERBS - there are many vitamin and mineral-rich herbs with tonic properties that can be fed to poultry. Fresh herbs can be grown in yards, and when needed, can be finley chopped and added to mash, or tied in bunches to be pecked at.

TONICS FOR CHICKS - For diesease and parasite prevention, give chicks a bowl of milk each morining. You can add the following tonics to feed every few days to boost health:

* raw egg
* finely chopped garlic, rue and/or onions
* chopped herbs such as fennel, dill, miny anise or rue
* seeds of grass, celery, milet, mustard, anise, groundsel, shepherd's purse, sunflower, fenugreek, fennel, canola and thistle
* raisins, powdered seaweed, flaked nuts, pepper, ginger, paprika or plantain.
That, basically was the fact behind the food in my project. Some of you may be very intrested in this information I've found from numerous sources. Others may just want to find out what I did next. Anywho, click on the link below to go to page 3!
Click Here to go to Page 2!
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