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PIERCED to Death.
…Destiny's Child and actress Suzzanne Douglas sport navel-piercings. New vocalist Cherokee, who has her nose and navel pierced, told Jet, "It's a symbol of beauty and expression to some people. For me, it's beauty." All cultures paint, pierce, tattoo or adorn their bodies, one anthropologist noted, to attract the opposite sex, boost self-esteem, show allegiance to a particular group or set themselves up as apart or different from the group. Egyptian pharaohs brandished their royalty by piercing the navel and Roman soldiers showed virility and courage with pierced nipples, according to one writer. Africans and American Indians use body-piercing in rites of passage and religious ceremonies. The art of body-piercing, though always controversial, has been around since biblical times. And society's reaction to it (mostly horror and revulsion) has an early precedent as well. In the Bible's book of Leviticus 19:28, God tells Moses: "Ye shall not make any cuttings in your flesh for the dead, nor print any marks upon you."However society's conventions haven't dissuaded the young and the young-at-heart from the piercing parlors. And that concerns physicians and health officials who are seeing an increased incidence of infections and other serious complications, including blood poisoning, arising from body-piercings' rising popularity.
One in five body-piercings leads to a serious bacterial infection, according to the Harvard Medical School Family…
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…"I've never really identified with great big stones like diamonds and emeralds," Farago said. "For me, the question is what's the workmanship and what does the artist put into the piece?""Daphne gathered the work of living artists of this century," noted Philadelphia jewelry artist Jan Yager. "She has been quite visionary in understanding that jewelry speaks to humanity in a really powerful way."
Some works, such as John Paul Miller's Polyp Colony (1975) necklace, are masterpieces of craftsmanship.
"Miller became fascinated by gold granulation used in antiquity," L'Ecuyer said. "On the underside of the polyp we have hundreds of these granules, each half the size of a poppy seed, that he hand-formed."
Other pieces, like Yager's Masai beaded collar necklace (strung entirely from crack vials gathered off the sidewalks and alleyways in her north Philadelphia neighborhood), make political statements. Yager's dandelion pin, complete with insect-chewed, straggly leaves and set with a sliver of auto glass, is at once a send-up of classic suit brooches, a commentary on the collision of man and nature and an homage to the beauty that pushes through the cracks of her neighborhood.
Caption(s): Daphne Farago in an Alexander Calder necklace, with husband Peter. / Jan Yager's silver dandelion brooch.
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…by punk-rock, gothic looks and the pin-up model she looks so much like. She loves black lace, tulle and stretchy cotton fabrics. "I like clothes to stand out but not be completely shocking." Her inspiration: Music, including her all-time favorite, the Cure, and Bloc Party or "any rock you can dance to." She also gives a nod to the community of do-it-yourself designers who sell on eBay. She's made friends with DIY designers across the country and watches what styles sell. Her hottest sellers: Corsets. She uses plastic boning and makes them out of edgy-looking fabrics, including skull prints and old concert T-shirts. Her fashion dream: To own a Downtown store that features her line of dresses, tops and corsets On the model: Black and white tunic-style top, $56. Dreamie by Robert Hall, 26 Day job: Student at Pima Community College, transferring to University of Arizona, where he will be an education major. Hall fell into fashion design through art. "I studied illustration, and I thought it would be cool to wear my own art," he said. He took a silk-screening course at the college and now his designs for men and women can be found on T-shirts and hoodies.…
…and Carlo Giuliano's Etruscan revival jewelry which garnered tremendous recognition and whose styles were widely interpreted throughout Europe.During the late Aesthetic period, universities opened to women and there was a new exuberance in colored stones such as alexandrite, peridot and the tourmaline family, according to Kaplan.
[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]
Rogers adds that delicate swag necklaces with semi-precious stones and filigree work reflected a move again toward more feminine jewelry.
The Art Nouveau Movement (1890-1910)
A revolt against the industrial age and the last 10 years of the mass-produced Victorian era, "Art Nouveau was a profound time in the history of jewelry from which some of the most imaginative and creative works emerged," asserts Rahul Kadakia, Senior Vice President of jewelry for Christie's USA, and previously senior jewelry specialist in Geneva and London. "Liberation was the mood, as a group of French visionaries rebelled against the materialistic and machine-made pieces. Prior to this, jewelers thought about the fashions of the times they were living in as well as what they thought people wanted to spend."
"The big houses in America and Europe had both royal and family clientele governing the type of jewelry that was being made. But through the artistic expression of Rene Lalique,…