Roma Again

When I told my friend Pamela I wanted to return to Italy, she didn�t hesitate to commit to joining me. Unlike our first trip when we planned almost every detail in our itinerary before leaving the USA, we did not make any real plans this time with the exception of our hotel reservations in Roma and on the Amalfi coast ~ strictly because we didn't want to find ourselves sleeping on the street or on the beach due to "hotel overload."

I once read that "Courage is what you do inspite of the fear." With that in mind all I can think is "Onward brave souls�"

Our dear friend Ali filled in the gaps this journey ~ we didn't see several places of interest in November; so, he generously offered to take us to the Antiqua Appia (Old Appia Way) Lake Marino (which is out of Roma near "La Papa's" summer retreat) the Spanish Steps and surrounding area this time! We thank Ali for his valuable friendship and commitment to our lasting memories . . .
I did an incredible amount of research on the Appian Way before my first journey to Italy, thinking I would walk on the old road. I felt a strong spiritual sense to experience the original road into Roma, but we couldn't find it! The image on the left IS that road with the original cobblestones still intact. Can you imagine walking on cobblestones that are over 2000 years old? The very stones Roman soldiers once set upon? I was in total and complete awe. . . The image at right is one of Pamela, who for the sake of this photo felt the weight of the world on her shoulders under one of several gargantuan boulders scattered along the road.

Stepping back into Roma was an awesome experience and once again we hailed a taxi at the airport and headed to Hotel Alexandra on Via Veneto, just a few blocks down from the U.S. Embassy. As is usual after such a long flight with a six hour time difference, we checked into our room, unpacked and napped so we would be fresh for the day. Our flight got into Roma at approximately 9:00am, so we had lots of time to putter around the room before going to the Alex Cafe to see our old friends!

Valter, (above) Proprietor of the Alex Cafe and Franco, were extremely surprised to see us since they hadn't received the postcard I sent just one month earlier! They were amazed that after only 6 months we were back and welcomed us "home" with open arms. Our reunion was delightful, and Valter asked Franco to pop the cork on a delicious bottle of Italian champagne to honor our return. Once again Pamela and I toasted the eternal citt� Roma ~ knowing fully that this was just the beginning of another great adventure . . .

I was excited to be back in Roma and couldn't imagine why I ever thought it would be a waste of my time, while I planed the first journey.

We caught up with Nilo and Christiano, two waiters at Alex Cafe, who were also amazed to see us back so soon.

Pamela and I dined on a fantastic meal, drank Italian champagne and vino, chatted with our friends and then called it an early night. We needed the sleep and we decided over dinner that we would venture to the Roman Forum the next day ~ another remarkable site I didn't have time to see last November. Pamela had contemplated going to "Aida" but settled on the Forum since I hadn't ever been... what a buddy, eh?

The next morning we woke refreshed and hailed a taxi for the Forum. We remembered our old friend Alberto, the Roman soldier at "Il Colloseo" who playfully took photos with us (free of charge) and lovingly referred to Pamela as "The Viking Woman." Of course we had to stop by to say hello while we were in the area . . . much to our disappointment Alberto was not working that day. When I inquired about him, another Roman soldier said "Alberto non lovoro" but offered to call him for us as he was sure Alberto would want to know and see us. Aww, too bad we missed him. We decided we would look him up again during our 3rd journey, in the future.

The Roman Forum (anything UNDERLINED is linked) is located across the street from the Colosseum, so away we went . . .

Left - Forum and Paletine Hill. For those who have never been, I wanted to give you a "sweeping" view, but by no means does it include even the majority of what the Forum is, or it's true size. Right - Temple of Castor and Pollux built in 484 BC. Note the people on the left of the photo. This should give you some idea of just how gigantic these structures really are. Everyone asks me, "How did you get so many photos without tons of tourists in them?" Hmmm, was it skill or just dumb luck?

Left - Arch of Titus
Below - Temple of Divius Julius
Where Julius Caesar's body was burned
Right - Triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus These carvings are taller than me!

Hungry and exhausted, we left the Forum and lunched at the same little restaurant we visited just 6-months previously, conveniently located across the street from the Forum and Colosseum. It's a fantastic "people watching" eatery, and I had my favorite gnocchi again, which is quite reasonably priced.

When in Rome do as the Romans do? We shunned conventional transportation back to Via Veneto and instead we traveled by horse and carriage with a drop-off at the Trevi Fountain for mouth watering gelato. The carriage ride was especially nice since it offered a coolish breeze. Interestingly, our horse and driver were both named "Georgio," and to not appear rude we both stiffled our giggles . . .

Click here for some great photos of Ancient Rome

Above
Left - Our horse and carriage ride through Roma
Right - A ruin on a street corner
Below
Left & Right - Victor Emanuel Monument on Piazza Venezia

We wanted to do a bit of shopping around the Trevi fountain. An adorable little shop with Murano glass caught my eye. I picked up a vase for my friend Rick and his wife, since they got married while I was gone, and my mom a handsomely crafted angel to add to her collection. I was sure that both Rick and mom would love their gifts... Mom's angel now graces my livingroom coffee table. (When she passed away in March I broke up her collection and gave all the pieces (except this one) to her grandchildren, neices, and sister.)

Yeah! On our way towards Via Veneto we ran into Ali! As mentioned previously, he told us he wanted to take us to Laggo Marino and Antiqua Appia... we set a plan to meet in an hour. Laggo Marino (where he treated us to scrumptious gelato) is near Castel Gondolfo the Pope�s summer retreat, and the Antiqua Appia is in Roma near the Christian Catacombs ~   We were thrilled to spend time at Antiqua Appia, Lake Marino and with Ali, our very gracious host and tour guide.   After taking plenty of photos during our trek up and down the ancient cobblestone road (police block the entrances because cars are not allowed unless you live on the road and I didn't know anyone lived on the road! Bicycles are fine and do little, if any, damage to the road) we realized we were hungry . . . Sight-seeing is difficult work!

Since Appia was our last stop Ali thought it might be nice for us to sample home-made local wine on our ride back to the hotel. Along the way he stopped at a little market and returned to the car with wine . . . Ali was right, THAT wine "goes to your head" quickly! It was strong, dry and white - I ejoyed it since it reminded me of Grandpa Sam's wine.   Pamela did not.

Laggo Marino

Ali and Pamela just after gelato and posing pretty for the camera

Ali had been such a perfect tour guide we wanted to take him out to dinner to an out-of-the-way restaurant since we always ate at places we knew and inside, even if it was just enclosed with glass! He knew the perfect place - close to our hotel situated on a side street with outdoor dining. It was a quaint smallish restaurant. On our way to dinner Ali saw a friend on the street that would soon be moving to Milan. He stopped to chat with him, and we ended up inviting him to dinner with us. His name was Biehn (sounds like Bean) and he was from the Tibetan mountain area. His english was really good!. He was a young man of small stature with tons of energy; very animated - he was delightful and Ali, Pamela and I laughed so hard as Biehn talked and told stories. He was a real chatterbox . . .

We sat outside drinking vino, chatting, and eating exceptionally well-prepared food. I had linguine and clams and presciuto and melon. I love presciuto and melons in Italy - it makes for an excellent appetizer. I also love Eating in Italy... meals are meant to be savored and lingered over with dinner companions and can take up to and over 3 hours to complete.

I had heard that if you are a "tourista" in Roma you will be charged more than the locals... I did not know that to be true until this dinner. When we were finished and received the check (we took Ali to dinner as a thank you) Ali looked it over and said it was unacceptable! He called the waiter, who in turn summoned the owner - Ali knew the owner, and he told him we were his friends and that we needed a better break on the cost! Ten minutes later with new check in hand, the owner came out and charged us "local" pricing. . . complete with 2 adorable little porcelain pots for Pamela and I, as gifts/souvenirs. He asked Ali if the prices was OK! Wow . . . who knew? Grazie, Ali.

Once again we poured over Ali thanking him for his time and attention, and we agreed that when we returned to Roma at the end of our journey we would meet up. We thought we would be in Roma an additional 2 or so days at the end of our trip, but because we were having such a great time in Abruzzo, we stayed there an additional day or two... leaving only one evening left for Roma. Ali cleared his calendar on short notice when we returned, and took us night walking through Roma. It was one of the most enjoyable walks I think I've ever had. We left Via Veneto for the Trevi fountain and the Spanish Steps. I can't remember a time in recent history where I just "hung out" for hours on city streets at and beyond midnight ~ how nostalgic ~ a refreshing and welcome visit to the days of my youth.

"Oh yes," I thought to myself ~ "This is the reason I came . . ."

Left - Donamaria attempting to drink from the fountain at the bottom of the Spanish Steps - Ali guiding her - it's a lot further to the drink than it looks! Right - Pamela and Ali positioning themselves for a photo at the bottom of the Spanish Steps.

~ Arrivederchi Roma ~
until we meet again . . .

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