What I miss
about South Africa
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Culture
SHOCK
Part of the trip
was educational as we had the opportunities to stay in
a Zulu Cultural
Homestead at Zululand and in Intabazwe Township at Harrismith.
Such experience
was really unforgettable as we really participated in the Africans' daily
activities to truly feel the tune of Africa.
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Zulu Cultural
Homestead at Zululand (Ecabazini)
Zululand
is part of Northern Kwazulu Natal. Ecabazini is situated in a valley overlooking
the bay of Albert Falls Dam and distant Karkloof mountains. Staying at
Ecabazini, which means "Place in the valley", allowed us to experience
the essence of Zulu life - their culture, history and customs.
We
were briefed on the Zulus living in past and present and toured their traditional
village. What was more enriching was when we stayed in its traditional
Rondavel hut furnished with Zulu artefacts depicting the traditional way
of life. As the temperature at night fall dipped drastically, we cruddled
around the fire enjoying the hospitality of traditional Zulu food which
comprised of traditional meal of maize, pumpkin, potatoes etc and meat
while drinking traditional African beer. A traditional Zulu dancing in
the Zulu hut followed next.
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Intabazwe Township
in Harrismith
Intabazwe
is one of the two townships in Harrismith (in Eastern Cape) which means
"the place of the mountains" in Zulu. It is populated by 65 000 people
of Basothos and Zulu origin who were moved from the old location (known
as Skoonplaas) in 1950s as part of upgrading plan during the era of apartheid.
This township is well equipped with a provision store, Catholic church,
schools, cemetery, Taverns (places for drinks and snacks), children hostel
(for children whose parents cannot afford to look after them) and housing
zones (Silahliwe - 'we were dumped' -illegal housing, bufferzone - people
from kwaZulu Natal avoiding political unrest or from farms and live in
squatters, Squirah park - suburb of first quality houses with more than
one bedroom, Rooistenne - first houses build in the township, red bricks
and had two rooms only). |
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After
the educational tour in the township, we were divided into groups of three
to stay with either Basothos and Zulu host families to learn and experience
their daily activities. Many have their interesting stories (about their
host background, their house, family members etc.) to tell! |
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African
Arts
Curio shopping
African crafts are "non-resistible "! They range from Zulu beadwork, woodcraving
(giraffe, antelope, chairs, masks, walking stick), rockcraving (hippo,
elephant, turtles), basket weaving, decorative and functional glassware,
Swazi candles, Ostrich egg lamps and paintings etc. We were typical crazy
shoppers. To an extent that we had "agonized" our guide because of delaying
the trip schedule due to curio shopping!
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Age Art Rock paintings and engravings created by the San hunters about
40,000 years ago in South Africa are the world famous collection. This
art is of great significance representing the San identification of animals
they hunted and rituals they used to obtain power over them. Eland, the
largest African antelopes, was always drawn as the link with the Godhead.
Paintings also depicted "Trance-dancing" where a half human and half animal
figure (known as shaman) was presented with women clapping and man dancing
around him. That was believed to bring him to the spirit world where he
possess supernatural power to alleviate any problems faced by the San thus
ensuring the survival of San's society. Most vivid and detailed paintings
are found in the Drakensberg mountain range. |
Unbelievable
that we actually trekked for an hour up to view five rock paintings!
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Life
after Apartheid
Along the way as
we stayed on camping ground, we met mostly the white. Being Asian, we had
become a sort of "animals in the zoo". Many of the campers, mostly white,
had mistaken us as Japanese and thought that we were unable to speak English.
While they exchanged words with Garth (our guide), they revealed that they
were curious about our presence in South Africa. To them, they were fascinated
by our visit and were keen to get to know us. They were shocked most of
the time when they heard us speaking fluent English or discovered that
we understand what they were talking about. But most of them were friendly,
particularly the older folks who we enjoyed talking to. I suppose the flourishing
tourism has opened South Africa to the world. Asians had started flocking
into the vast land of wilderness and rich culture, as curious as Africans
to know about its land and people.
Life is getting better
for most Africans after the abolishment of Apartheid. Diversity in race
and culture is the new image of South Africa. Living standard is rising
with improvement in education and housing. The whites and the blacks are
more accepting of each other. Though game parks and nature reserve see
more white travellers (thought to be established for the white) while mainly
the black works there, there exist no conflicting interest in protecting
the wildlife. Today, Africans are seeing the value in preserving its natural
heritage. However, it is urgently in need to upgrade its patches of townships
and tackle the high crime rates in the major cities.
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