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Dog behavior and the "pack"
I've been told not to let my dog "get
away with that", to show him I'm the "alpha". Is this right?
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There
are many examples of this. Letting your dog sleep on the bed, letting
him sniff trees and fire hydrants, letting him make a wrong choice in an
effort to teach him--we're told that we're "letting him get away
with that," and he's going to "think he's in charge."
First of all, you are not your dog's drill sergeant, nor are you his
"alpha dog". You're a person, and your dog knows you're not
another dog. You're his buddy, right? His parent. You don't deny your
child a cookie to show him who's boss. But you might deny it for a
number of other reasons; it's too close to dinner and you'd rather he
ate his veggies, he's already had three and you don't want his teeth to
rot. You might not allow your dog to sleep on the bed because you're not
thrilled to wake up with a mouthful of dog hair. The difference is
intent. It's the difference between ruling your dog and leading him.
Rulers are resented and rebelled against. Leaders are respected and
admired.
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Isn't it necessary to "dominate"
dogs in a family context?
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Big
"no!" This is another concept carried on by punishment-based
training. The idea is that the dog has to feel subordinate to the humans
in the home, or he will misbehave. We've been hearing, "You have to
be the Alpha!" all our lives. I have seen loads of dogs that have
been diagnosed by other trainers as "dominant", when in
reality the dogs are only confused, afraid, or lacking in
self-confidence. Trainers will use an "alpha roll" or
"scruff shake" to establish dominance over a
"difficult" dog. They justify these horrible and painful
wrestling maneuvers by telling us that dogs do these things to each
other to establish a hierarchy. But this just demonstrates that they
don't know much about dog behavior. The "alpha roll", for
example, is the term for a dominant dog holding a subordinate by the
neck, rolling him over, and holding his teeth around the subordinate's
throat. Trainers mimic this by pushing the dog to the ground and forcing
him to stay there by holding his neck. What they don't know is what real
canine behaviorists have understood for years: the dogs are not
wrestling. There is very little--if any--force involved in this
behavior. It is a ritual behavior, like shaking hands or holding a door
for someone. The dogs aren't fighting, they're merely reinforcing the
established hierarchy. Knowing this, what do you suppose a dog who's
subjected to this by a trainer thinks? He thinks he's being attacked!
The point is, your dog should not be your lowly servant. That's not why
you got him. He's your partner, and you're his leader. Doesn't that
sound better than "alpha/beta"? When you treat your dog with
respect, he'll return it. And a relationship based on mutual respect is
way more fulfilling than one based on fear.
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I'd like to get a second dog. How should I
introduce them?
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First,
it's important to find out if your dog would like a new brother or
sister. Most dogs would; it's in their genes. But some dogs honestly
prefer the company of humans. Some may be older and less active, and
don't want to be harassed by a high energy puppy. Observe your dog
around other dogs. Is he interested, or would he rather they left him
alone? In general, there's a "right" companion for most dogs.
Adopt one who's personality fits with your dog's. If your dog is older,
consider adopting another older dog that won't annoy him. Most rescues
and humane societies are more than willing to help you select the right
dog. But if you know your dog would be best as an "only dog",
allow him that.
Introducing a new dog
to the household has to be done carefully. First impressions are often
lasting with dogs, so it's important to make good ones. Introductions
should be done slowly and with a trainer's supervision whenever
possible. Let the dogs meet in "neutral territory", like the
park or the front yard. This reduces the stress on the resident dog, and
allows him to get acquainted in a safe environment. If the dogs play and
enjoy each other, great! Let them share a drink of water, then give them
a break from each other. Let them into each other's company for brief
periods, and leave them wanting more! If they are wary of one another,
it's important to re-evaluate your choice. Is this the right dog? They
may warm up to each other, but like people, some dogs just don't like
some other dogs. I know some people that I'd rather not live with for
the rest of my life, as I'm sure you do. Separate the dogs and spend
some time and attention with both of them, doing things they enjoy. Get
them in a good mood. Then try again. It may take several sniffs and
growling sessions, but usually a carefully-chosen new dog will fit in
fine.
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Should I be nervous about leaving my child
alone with my dog?
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It
really depends on the child and the dog. When a dog bites a child, I
would bet you that 95% of the time it's because the child wasn’t
taught how to behave around the dog. The other 5% can only be attributed
to a dog that has an illness or for another reason does not react to the
child in a "rational" way. Dogs don't bite for no reason.
Ever. And usually a dog bites because he feels his other communications
are being ignored or misunderstood. Behaviorally, biting is a dog's last
resort. This makes sense--naturally, dogs live in societies of other
dogs, and they don't want to start a fight that might result in the
injury of themselves or another pack member. A healthy dog will give any
number of communications to avoid biting. Primarily, they use body
language. A dog will say, "Please don't do that." by
stiffening his body, holding his ears back, lifting a lip, looking
sideways, pushing his whiskers forward, or becoming still. Every dog
uses his own unique signals, just like every person speaks in a unique
way, but the language is the same. As we grow older, I believe most
people subconsciously learn to recognize most of these signals and obey
them. Children, however, are usually oblivious to these signals. The dog
communicates the message to the child in every way he knows how, and the
message is ignored. What communication can he use that the child can't
ignore? The answer may be his teeth. Teach your children early on to
respect dogs. They are our friends and companions and
angels-come-to-earth, but they are still dogs. They are still pointy in
lots of places. And they have their own instincts. They aren't toys or
objects. Until your child learns to respect your dog and treat him
fairly, I wouldn't leave them alone, because accidents can and do
happen.
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For one reason or another, my dog needs a new
home. What do I do?
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Give
me a call! Wouldn't you rather your dog be with a family that a
professional trainer can vouch for? For $25 (plus mileage if outside the
city of Fort Collins) I will visit the prospective home and give you my
honest opinion on whether or not it would be a good match for your dog.
You can also contact the Larimer Humane Society to help you place your
dog. Of the Humane Societies I have experience with, LHS is by far the
most impressive, compassionate, and successful in their mission to save
the lives of companion animals.
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Help! My vet/trainer says my dog is vicious,
and should be put to sleep! What can I do?
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Contact
me immediately! It is sadly true that due to emotional trauma or
physical illness, some dogs behave in dangerous ways. However, your dog
is most likely not "vicious". He's trying to tell you
something. He may be saying, "I'm afraid," "I'm
confused," "I'm sick," or "Nobody listens to
me." He shouldn't die for trying to communicate. Every behavior has
a cause! Before you make the ultimate decision, you owe it to your dog
to understand the source of his behavior, and to try to help. If you
can't help--for instance if you discover your dog has a terminal illness
that makes him behave in an unacceptable manner--then you will know you
tried, and you won't be haunted by the thought, "What if I could've
prevented this?"
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