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The Overseas Class.

By Richard C. Paddock, Los Angeles Times Staff Writer
April 20, 2006

They nurse the sick in California, drive fuel trucks in Iraq, sail cargo
ships through the Panama Canal and cruise ships through the Gulf of
Alaska. They pour sake for Japanese salarymen and raise the children of
Saudi businessmen.

They are the Philippines' most successful export: its workers.

Three decades ago, seeking sources of hard currency and an outlet for a
fast-growing population, then-President Ferdinand Marcos encouraged
Filipinos to find jobs in other countries. Over time, the overseas worker
has become a pillar of the economy. Nine million Filipinos, more than one
out of every 10, are working abroad. Every day, more than 3,100 leave the
country.

Philippine workers sent home more than $10.7 billion last year, equal to
about 12% of the gross domestic product.

The current president, Gloria Macapagal Arroyo, calls them "the backbone
of the new global workforce" and "our greatest export."

Worldwide, these workers have earned a reputation for enterprise and hard
work. They include some of the Philippines' most talented people, well
educated and multilingual.

But as a third generation leaves to work abroad, it is clear the system
has not led to prosperity. Policymakers have focused on easing the flow of
workers rather than harnessing their earnings for economic development.

Dependence on the export of people has become a formula for stagnation.
Once one of the strongest in Asia, the Philippine economy now ranks near
the bottom. The government invests little money in manufacturing,
education or healthcare. The economy can't create even the 1.5 million
jobs a year needed to keep up with population growth.

"We have a middle class, but they don't live in the Philippines," said
Doris Magsaysay Ho, head of a company that dispatches 18,000 workers a
year to serve on ships around the world.

Filipinos work in every country except North Korea, said Labor Secretary
Patricia Santo Tomas, whose brother is a doctor in Orange County. More
than 2.5 million work in the United States and nearly a million in Saudi
Arabia.

The money they earn trickles into towns and villages, helping build
houses, open restaurants and send children to school. But the absence of
so many industrious and skilled people - mothers and fathers, engineers
and entrepreneurs - exacts a heavy toll.

Across the Philippines, children are being raised by their grandparents.
"Now children can buy a lot of computer games, but they don't have a
mother or father, or both," Santo Tomas said.

For the sake of supporting their families, the overseas workers endure
years of loneliness. Some, especially maids in the Middle East, suffer
beatings and sexual abuse. In countries such as Saudi Arabia and Kuwait,
they are jailed for running away. Yet the Philippines has grown so
dependent on remittances that the thought of doing without them is
frightening.

"Money from abroad is the only thing that keeps the economy in motion,"
said Ding Lichauco, former head of the country's economic planning office.
"If you don't encourage the employees to go overseas, you will have
revolution."

Providing sailors, maids, entertainers and other workers for a growing
world market is a big business.

In this competitive arena, the Philippines has an advantage. Many
Filipinos speak English. They are generally better educated than workers
from countries such as Bangladesh, Sri Lanka or Indonesia. And they have a
reputation for being good-natured.

An entire bureaucracy has been created around them. The Philippine
Overseas Employment Administration helps find jobs in other countries,
encourages workers to go abroad and processes some job applications.

The Technical Education and Skills Development Agency offers free training
in welding, driving heavy trucks and other skills. The Overseas Workers
Welfare Administration stations diplomats around the world to look after
the Philippines' foreign workers.

Those who bring or send their earnings home pay no income taxes. And the
government offers returning workers low-cost equipment and tools to help
them start small businesses.

With that level of encouragement, an industry has developed to match
workers and jobs.

There are more than 1,500 licensed recruiting agencies. Some provide
training - six months for dancers, four months for seafarers, two weeks
for housekeepers - in return for a cut of the worker's earnings.

A cook on a cargo ship can make more than Arroyo's official salary of
$1,000 a month. A bar singer in Japan can earn more than a Philippine
senator. But the fees can run into the thousands of dollars; the better
the job, the greater the cost.

Dozens of agencies in Manila's Ermita district attract job seekers from
all over the country. Applicants line up on the streets, luggage in hand,
ready to go anywhere. Notaries sit at small wooden desks on the sidewalk.
Using manual typewriters, they help workers fill out the 14 documents they
are required to submit. Large copy machines on the sidewalk crank out
duplicates.

Laboratories conduct blood, tuberculosis and drug tests to certify the
workers' health. Nearby are cellphone shops, money changers, cheap hotels
and restaurants. Many Arab countries, with their vast oil wealth and
relatively small populations, are hungry for workers.

The CDK International Manpower Services posted notices in its window
seeking domestic workers and midwives in the Middle East, a gift wrapper
in Dubai and a "magician balloon decorator" elsewhere in the United Arab
Emirates. The agency was also recruiting workers for Burger King and
Starbucks outlets in the Middle East. ("Must have fashion for coffee," the
ad for Starbucks said.)

Another company operating in the Middle East wanted diesel mechanics,
flower arrangers, structural engineers, wedding card designers, massage
therapists, website designers, accountants and nannies.

In another neighborhood, three blocks from the U.S. Embassy, a crowded
sidewalk serves as an informal hiring hall for sailors. The Philippines
produces nearly 25% of the world's seafaring workers, more than any other
nation.

Hundreds of would-be sailors were hanging around in the shade of the leafy
narra trees as agents wandered by, holding up signs offering jobs on ships
sailing from Germany, Argentina, Los Angeles or Greece. Some sought
engineers and first mates for cargo ships. Others needed chefs and waiters
for cruises.

A salesman offered small vials of python oil, guaranteed to cure back
pain, heart disease, joint dislocation, rheumatism, cough, arthritis and
skin disease.

Merchants offered CDs providing instruction on how to moor a ship, plan a
voyage, speak "maritime English" and handle hazardous materials.

Freddie Vicedo spent three decades at sea, earning enough to build a house
20 miles south of Manila and send his children to school. Now past the
mandatory retirement age of 50, he was seeking one last job.

"It's OK to be away if it provides you with a home and a future," he said.
  "It's better than living all together in poverty."

The teeming neighborhood of Antipolo in central Manila is one of the
city's poorest. Thousands of families live along the railroad tracks in
shanties of scrap wood and metal built one on top of the other, three
stories high. Families sleep seven or eight to a room and cook over open
fires between the tracks. Every month or so, someone is hit by a train.

Children play in garbage. Old women play mah-jongg on a rickety table. A
woman patiently picks lice from a girl's hair.

It is not uncommon for families to hold a wake in the middle of the
sweltering streets, as Danilo Paredes did for his 18-year-old daughter,
Raquel. Lying in an open coffin placed on a table, she looked small for
her age, but at peace amid the chaos.

Paredes said he didn't know what killed her, only that he didn't have the
$25 for the medicine the doctor prescribed.

Residents look for any way out.

"I hate this place," said Mary Grace Libao, 13. She and her friend,
Clarivel de los Santos, also 13, said they wanted to be singers in Japan.

"In Japan I will make enough money to buy a house for my family," Clarivel
said. Thousands of Philippine musicians and singers perform at resorts and
hotels from Bali, Indonesia; to Phuket, Thailand; to Tokyo. Many young
women who go abroad as entertainers end up working in the sex trade.

All over Japan, salarymen come to Philippine pubs to escape the tedium and
stress of their jobs. They drink sake and sing karaoke with "japayuki,"
beautiful, scantily clad young women.

In Osaka, the Philippine clubs are concentrated in the crowded Dotonburi
district. Many are controlled by Japanese organized crime. Customers spend
as much as $500 an evening in one of the better establishments.

Large clubs typically stage a brief show in which the women sing a few
songs and dance. The rest of the time, they flirt with the customers,
pouring sake, feeding them and lighting their cigarettes. They can make
more in tips in an evening than they could working for a month as a
salesclerk back home. They can make even more if they agree to have sex.

"The customers make offers," said Estrella Pumar, 31, who was heading from
Manila to Osaka for her second tour. "It's up to the girls to decide what
kind of life to live."

The women live six or seven to a room provided by their employers. If they
are lucky, they get a day off every two weeks. Many aspire to marry a
Japanese man and secure a residency permit. Having a child in Japan
ensures residency status after a divorce, which is how 80% of these
marriages end.

Wendy, 37, followed her mother to Japan in the 1990s. A brother and sister
moved to Los Angeles. She spent 10 years working in pubs before marrying a
Japanese man, having a son and opening her own club in Osaka, the Twin
Angels.

"It's better to be here than in the Philippines," said Wendy, who declined
to give her full name. But someday she'd like to return home and perhaps
open a McDonald's. In the meantime, she said, "we have to survive."

The wards are overflowing at Negros Oriental Provincial Hospital, and
dozens of patients lie on cots in the corridors. Some have just given
birth. Others have just had surgery. Some will die in the hallway.

The hospital in Dumaguete, about 400 miles south of Manila, was built for
250 patients but usually has more than 350. Newborns stay in the same bed
as their mothers; some have suffocated when their mothers rolled over in
their sleep.

Patients who come here have no choice. It's the only hospital in the
region they can afford. But for the doctors there is a way out: Study
nursing and leave for the United States or Europe, where qualified nurses
are in short supply.

Medical regulations in the U.S. and European countries typically make it
very difficult for foreign doctors to work there as physicians. But nurses
are in such demand that some recruiters offer bonuses of $15,000, the
equivalent of three years' pay for a doctor in Dumaguete.

Of 207 doctors in Negros Oriental province, 79 have become nurses and more
than 30 are in nursing school. This hospital is supposed to have 72
doctors, but only 43 remain. The Dumaguete district has closed two of its
six rural hospitals and may soon have to close a third, said Dr. Ely
Villapando, the province's chief health officer.

"We are worried sick about medical doctors taking up nursing and leaving,"
said Villapando, 63, who also runs the hospital. "We are losing the most
skilled doctors. This is a crisis in healthcare."

An aid agency gave the hospital new cardiology equipment, but it sits
unused. The hospital's only cardiologist left to become an emergency-room
nurse in Chicago. What she earned in a month here, she can now make before
lunch.

Here, patients are so poor that some pay in produce or livestock. X-rays
cost a chicken. A bunch of bananas covers consultation. Delivering a baby
costs one goat. Villapando makes the equivalent of $437 a month. Two of
his children have become nurses in the United States, one in Bakersfield
and one in Texas. They send him money.

"My son already has a house of his own," he said. "He has two cars. My
daughter is building a house and has two cars. They could not hope to
achieve that here."

To become nurses, the doctors attend classes on weekends for a year and
spend 2,200 hours as volunteer nurses at the hospital. Sometimes they do
both jobs the same day.

"Some of the patients get confused," said Dr. Joyce Maningo, an internist
studying to be a nurse. "They say, 'Weren't you a doctor this morning?'"

An ophthalmologist with her own practice, Dr. Eileen Marie Macia is near
the top of her profession. Her father was a surgeon and a congressman. He
was instrumental in building a new wing of the Dumaguete hospital. But
she, too, is giving up. She is in nursing school and weighing whether it
would be better to live in Tennessee or Los Angeles.

"If I go to the States, I will have to forget I am a doctor," she said as
she made her nursing rounds. "I love the Philippines, but it will always
be a Third World country."

Runaway maids arrive at the Philippine Embassy in Kuwait desperate,
bruised, hungry and penniless. They slip out of their employers' homes in
the dead of night through a window, over a wall or by walking out a door
accidentally left unlocked.

They break the law simply by leaving without permission.

Some spend more than a year in the embassy compound, waiting for their
passports, back pay or the resolution of their legal cases. If they step
outside, they can be arrested.

At times, more than 500 women live at the offices of the Overseas Workers
Welfare Administration next to the embassy. The building gets so crowded
that the women cannot all lie down to sleep at the same time.

"It's like a prison," said Annabelle Abing, who lived there for three
months. More than 750,000 Philippine maids work in Kuwait, Saudi Arabia
and other Middle Eastern countries, where they often face legalized
discrimination, beatings and sexual abuse.

The women frequently live in isolation, forbidden even to telephone their
families. If they file a legal claim against their employer, they can be
deported or imprisoned on trumped-up charges.

"They are treated like modern slaves," said Maita Santiago,
secretary-general of Migrante International, a rights group for Philippine
workers. "When workers are in distress, the government doesn't stand up
for their rights for fear of the markets of foreign countries closing to
Filipino workers."

Perhaps the toughest country for domestic workers is Saudi Arabia.

Sheila Marie Macatiag, 28, was earning $12 a month at a car stereo factory
in the Philippines when she decided to take a job in Saudi Arabia to
support her parents and six younger siblings.

Macatiag said she was forced to work from 5 a.m. to midnight, verbally
abused for the smallest mistake and never given enough to eat. During her
first six months, her employers paid her a total of $200; she had paid
$300 to an employment agency in the Philippines to get the job.

Fed up, she ran away to the employment agency's local office. But by the
time she got there, her employers had already complained that she had
stolen money and watches from their vault. Police came and arrested her.

Despite the absence of evidence or witnesses, she spent 13 months in jail,
Macatiag said.

"They told me they were going to cut off my hand or I would be sentenced
to 108 years or I would die in prison," she said. "Even during trial they
told me my hand would be cut off unless I admitted to the allegations."

She maintained that she was innocent, but a Saudi court convicted her and
she received five lashes on the hand with a cane. She has returned to the
Philippines but doesn't expect to find a job.

"There are so many people here and so few jobs," Macatiag said. She is
hoping to leave the country again: "Anywhere but the Middle East," she
said.

Even if there is no abuse, the emotional toll of being away from home can
be heavy. In Hong Kong, Philippine maids gather by the thousands in the
city center every Sunday to spend their day off together. They fill the
parks and sidewalks and overflow into the streets. Sitting on cardboard or
sheets of plastic, they hold prayer meetings, play cards and have picnics.

Beneath the festivity is a sense of melancholy. These women spend the best
years of their lives serving others.

Many leave their children behind so they can earn enough to pay for their
schooling. Others forgo the chance to marry in order to provide for
parents and siblings. Most make the equivalent of $420 a month and send
more than half of it home.

Editha Ycon, 37, has worked 13 of the last 17 years in the United Arab
Emirates, Saudi Arabia, Taiwan and now Hong Kong. She has a degree in
computer programming but could not find work in the Philippines. She has
left her son twice to go overseas, first when he was 6 months old and
again when he was 4 years old. He is now 10.

"I want to stay with my son," she said. "I want to prepare his breakfast
before he goes to school. I want to pack his things. I am a mother, but
not really. I haven't been a mother yet."

The people of Santa Rosa, a village two hours south of Manila, once made a
living processing coconuts. But the men who worked in the drying sheds
left the country long ago.

Now the village is known as Little Italy. It depends almost entirely on
remittances from abroad. Of its 8,000 people, 3,000 work overseas, mainly
in Italy and Spain. Left behind are children, the elderly and the
disabled.

Overseas workers contributed money to build the two-story village office.
A worker in Spain donated the village computer. Others helped buy an
ambulance. But the village is distinguished by the more than 600 large
Italian-style houses built with money sent home from overseas.

Village head Benito Alvarez, who wears a USA T-shirt given to him by
cousins in America, said the owners were unlikely ever to live in them.
"They build the house to prove to the people they grew up with that they
are a big success," he said.

But what Alvarez sees as evidence of waste and opulence gives another
villager a deep sense of satisfaction.

Carlito Villanueva, 67, began sending his children to Spain and Italy in
1985. Now all nine of them live in Europe, along with their spouses and
his 14 grandchildren.

"If they had not gone, I could only see hardship for them, because life
here is very difficult," he said. "I'm not sad at all. I'm very happy. As
a parent, my major goal is to secure a good life for them."

Each of the children is sending money to build a house in the family
compound. Four have been built, and a fifth is planned. All are
unoccupied, except on the rare occasion when one of the children comes
home for a visit.

"This is their home," he said. "Wherever they are in the world, even
though they are scattered, they will come home to me."

Another neighbor, Digna Escueta, 28, hadn't been home since she left to
work as a maid in Padua, Italy, six years earlier. She came back for two
weeks to try to straighten out a domestic nightmare: Her husband was in
prison for drug use, and her daughter was out of control.

Her parents worked overseas when she was growing up, starting with her
mother when Escueta was 11. A brother and sister followed. Altogether,
more than 50 relatives found work in Italy.

Escueta married as a teenager and soon had a baby. Her husband became
addicted to methamphetamine.

"We grew up making our own decisions, and because of that we married
young," she said. "Some children of overseas workers in this barrio fall
into vice and lose direction in life."

When Escueta turned 22, she also went overseas, leaving her 1-year-old
daughter, Yvonne, with a cousin.

Seeing her daughter for the first time in six years was not the reunion
she was hoping for. Yvonne had become the terror of the neighborhood.

She slugged the boys when her mother's back was turned, making them cry.
She killed kittens by hugging them to death, stepping on them or locking
them in a closet, Escueta said. She killed a puppy by tying a string
around its neck and letting it fall off a high bed.

"She loves them to death," her mother said.

Escueta acknowledged that the absence of so many parents meant troubles
for the next generation of Filipinos.

"Going abroad has two sides," she said. "The bad side is the separation of
the family. The children grow up without a mother's supervision. Sometimes
they go astray. The good side is not just the income but the possibility
the whole family could go overseas, which is my dream."

Angelo de la Cruz, a father of eight, was desperate. He needed to pay
medical bills for a son who lost an eye in an accident and care for
another who has Down syndrome. He decided to leave his one-room bamboo hut
two hours north of Manila and return to Saudi Arabia, where he'd worked
three times. He left as a truck driver. He returned as a national symbol.

In July 2004, De la Cruz was ordered to deliver gasoline to U.S. troops in
Iraq. He became separated from other trucks in the convoy and was abducted
four hours after crossing the border.

His kidnappers demanded that the Philippines withdraw its contingent of 51
troops from the U.S.-led coalition. He expected to be beheaded. But with a
narrow election victory behind her, President Arroyo could not risk
offending the huge constituency of overseas workers and their families.
She withdrew the Philippine troops a month ahead of schedule.

De la Cruz was freed after two weeks.

On his return home, he was showered with gifts: a new three-room house, a
new motorcycle, a new job, a glass eye for his son and scholarships for
his children.

"They kept saying I was a hero," he said. "I felt like I was just an
ordinary person.

Many say that I am a symbol of the Philippines. To this day, I keep
wondering what it is I have become." *****
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