Dress: During the Civil War years, dresses tended to emphasize wide shoulders, narrow waistlines, and wide hips, culminating in the distinctive �bell� shaped skirt. A rounded hourglass figure was truly the height of fashion during the early 1860�s. Therefore, the dresses worn affected a �dropped shoulder� effect to emphasize the smooth, wide line of a woman's shoulders, the illusion of a small waist, and a big skirt which emphasized the width of a woman's hips. Although the skirt was very large in order to accommodate the �crinoline� of the period, the bodice of the dress was very form fitting. back to top
Fabric Selection
The simplest, most historically correct fabric for a work dress is either a solid, stripe, woven plaid or woven check cotton or wool in dark and/or �natural dye� colors such as browns, indigo blues, madder red/browns, or combinations of these. Grays are not particularly appropriate, as the dyes used in gray dyes were generally appropriated for dying fibers to make Confederate uniforms. While prints were worn during the civil war, most modern prints are inaccurate for historical use. Also, since southern ports were blockaded for the majority of the Civil War, the availability of imported printed fabrics was quite limited, with most people either producing or procuring southern made homespun fabric. Small all-over modern prints which are termed �calico� are not accurate. Oh and I wouldn't suggest red as a color...that was mainly used by prostitutes. So unless you plan on doing a harlot impression I wouldn't use just red. And deep purples were thought to be the color of black magic in which case probably shouldn't be used. back to top
Pattern Selection:
�Past Patterns� is a company which makes its patterns from surviving historical garments, and offer clear instructions and illustrations. I've heard that "Period Impressions" patterns ARE NOT historically accurate, and should not be used. Also the "Heidi Marsh" patterns are very difficult to follow if you are not a very good seamstress. "Homespun Patterns" are supposed to be very easy to follow. Do not try to alter a modern pattern. Tailoring techniques have changed drastically since the 1860�s, and the proper placement of shoulder seams and sleeves is not possible with a modern pattern. Pattern purchase recommendations are listed below Bodices and skirts should be made of the same fabric but not necessarly the same pattern, although there are separate patterns for each part. The completed bodice and skirt should then be sewn together at the waist to make a one-piece garment. I like to have my bodice seperate from my skirt. It's much easier to put on. Just hide the differences with a belt. back to top
Construction Details:
Machine sewing is fine for all seams that do not show, but any buttonholes and all visible stitching should be hand-sewn. Commonly, bodices closed with hidden hooks and eyes. Buttons were generally applied as decoration while the dress itself actually had no buttonholes at all. Buttons, if used, should be made of period styled wood, metal, shell, glass, bone, or China. I still cheat and use the machine for the buttonholes... It's quicker and you really can't tell the difference. back to top
