Inst

INSTRUCTIONS

Here is Pic1 and Pic2 for the two different sides of the C ration box, andPic3 and Pic4 for the K ration.
Print size: Pic1 2.04W x 1.29H, Pic2 3.27W x 1.31H Pic3 2.02W x 1.26H, Pic4 3.54W x 1.30H

RATION CRATES:

Thses are instructions on how to fabricate the different Ration crates as well as how to print the text on the sides using an inkjet printer. Although I've had great sucess doing this myself, I want to say that doing any of this is at your own risk, so don't sue me if this kills your printer, he he!

First here are the dimensions of each (scaled down from the real thing):
K-ration crate: 2 1/16th" W x 3 9/16th" L x 1 3/8th H
C-ration crate: 2 1/16th" W x 3 1/4" L x 1 3/8th H.
Note the dimensions are the same for each, except the C-ration is slighty shorter.

Buy some 1/32" thick basswood (available at craft and hobby stores) and cut out the six sides neccessary to make either crate. (front, back, left, right, top, bottom) I never kept track of what the dimensions for each piece were, but that's fairly easy to figure out when you know what the whole box measures (for help look at the pics).

Then print out the image for either side on a regular sheet of paper (Pic1-4). You will then notice that there is a thin square outline around the text on each image. The wood box side should then be temporarily glued (using white glue) onto the sheet and lined up over that outline. Next before the glue dries it should be fed through the printer. If positioned correctly the image will print out on the wood.

It is important to note that the grain of the wood has to be parallel with the printer rollers, or in another way to put it, perpendicular with the direction the paper feeds. Otherwise the wood won't bend right and might break, or (even worse) might get stuck in the printer. Also print each side idividually and quickly peel the wood off the paper afterwards before it becomes stuck for good. And one more thing, after first printing the alignment image on the paper, you can delete the outline from the image so that it doesn't show up when you print on the wood.

Then when you have your four printed sides and 2 blank (the top and bottom) you can simply assemble the box using white glue. I usually cut the top and bottom panels (with an exacto) into the 2 or 3 sections needed after I glue it all together. Once assembled you can add "nail heads" to the box using a black ballpoint pen. Press the pen in to make a dimple and then rotate it till it makes a good round mark. This actually looks very real sense it has a 3D look and the ink is slightly shiny making it look like metal. All right hope that makes sense, that's about as good as I can explain it. For help, look at the pics.