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T I P S   O N   C A T   C A R E
More Cat Care
Some people (attention, Lynn!) are so clueless when it comes to keeping cats, so here are some tips from me.
Hey, I've kept cats long before you were born, okay Chuwy?
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Cat food, of course. Preferably the gourmet kind.
I feed Chuwy both canned and dry food. It's a lot more convenient than feeding him fresh meat or fish which has a lot of protein but lacks some important nutrients.

Exquisite china bowl and plate for feeding time.
I bet even Socks (the Clintons' cat) don't get those. It's better to get those heavy feeding bowls instead of the plastic ones, the food is less likely to spill. Though with a cat like Chuwy... *sighs*

A cat bed. Preferably, a soft, fluffy and expensive pillow.
Nah, cats sleep just about anywhere, so forget that!!  Well okay, if you have a kitten, maybe it's a good idea to get a cardboard box lined with something soft for it to sleep in.

A diamond studded collar would be nice too. Lynn?
Dream on, Chuwy! If your cat stays indoors, there's no need for a collar, but it's a good idea to get a collar with identification tag if it goes outdoor often. It should be something elastic; if your cat gets it tangled up somewhere, it can wriggle its way out of it.

Cat toys, scratching post, hidey holes... what else huh, Lynn?
Ermm ...  a cat carrier for those visits to the vet,  a litter tray is a must if you live in an apartment, brush and comb if you have a long-haired cat... that's about it, I guess. 

Okay Chuwy, go take a breather� I have some serious tips and tricks to pass on about some stuff. Shoo now...
How about that? Shoo-ed from my own webpage. Sheesh.
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C a t   F o o d

Premium Food
Although they are more expensive than normal brands, premium cat food are often better. They are low-bulk, which means your cat digests more of the food, thus they eat and eliminate less. They're also good for the coat,  giving it a silky sheen.  Some examples are Hill's Science Diet,  Optimum Recipe, Iams and Wysong.

Canned Food
If you feed your cats canned food and they don�t seem to want to drink, don't worry. Cats don�t drink a lot of water as a rule and canned food has quite a bit of water in them. Don't leave food out too long as it spoils easily and you need to wash the dishes often. Canned food may cause tartar build-up and might be a bit smelly  (for you; the cat won't mind one bit -- food is food)

Dry Food
Your cat will need more water but tartar build-up may be less of a problem due to the cruching on the kibbles / bits. Dry food are generally less expensive and less smelly. It won't spoil quickly and you don't need to wash the dishes that often. Oh, and the stools will be much firmer.

Milk
Did you know that most adult cats are lactose intolerant? Drinking milk will give these cats diarrhea. Having said that, most cats seem to enjoy drinking it, so you may want to give it as a treat. Cream is actually better than milk -- most cats handle the butterfat just fine and it contains less lactose.

Grass
Cats benefit from some vegetable matter in their diet (There's an explanation on why cats eat grass in the Q & A section). If you live in an apartment or your cat is an indoor cat, it might be a good idea to provide a tray of grass for your cat to chew on but first check if that particular type of grass is toxic to cats.

Feeding Schedule
You can feed your cats in one of two ways. One way is to set food at specific times of the day -- this is good for if the food spoils quickly or if your cat tends to overeat. The other way is 'free-feeding� or leaving food available at all times. For this, the food will have to be dry to avoid spoilage.

Special Diet / Feed
You may need to change your cat's diet for whatever reasons.  If your cat refuses to eat, don't worry. Leave the food out but remember to keep it fresh until it is hungry enough to eat. As a carnivore, cats are biologically adapted to go without food for several days.

A Food Trick
If your cat bolts down its food and throws some of it back up, you can slow down the way it eats by placing several clean, small stones in the food bowl. It will then have to pick the food in between the stones.



C a t   L i t t e r

If you live in a house, your cat will probably do its toilet outdoors. But in some cases, you may still need to use cat litter; for example with young, elderly or less active cats.

Litter Box/ Tray
These are shallow plastic pans to put litter in. Some cats (like Chuwy) tend to scatter litter outside the box when they bury the stools. This can be solved by getting a litter box with a cover, which may also help with the odour. A cheaper way is to put the litter box within a larger, shallow cardboard box.

Traditional Clay Litter
This is made up of clay particles that will absorb urine to some extend. You need to scoop out solid matter regularly and change the entire litter every week or so.

Clumping Litter
The litter clumps into little balls. This way urine can be scooped out along with the feces. In theory, you never need to change the litter again -- you only need to replace the litter you threw out.   Some problems :  the clumps breaks apart; the litter is slightly sandy and your cat may track sand around the litter box area.  A more serious problem is your cat ingesting the litter when they lick off the bits that sticks to their paws or body, which may cause obstructions in the stomach.

Cleanliness
Some cats are fussy about the cleanliness of the litter box. If a cat is displeased with the litter box, it may choose another spot to do its business. Scoop out the solid matter daily and disinfect the box weekly.  Note: When disinfecting, make sure you rinse thoroughly and air out the fumes. Don't disinfect with pine-oil based cleaners as these are toxic to cats.

Disposal
It's best if you wrap it up in two bags, in case the bag tears. Some people flush the solid matter down the toilet ... but remember that the clay pieces which sticks to the solid items may cause problems in septic tanks.



G r o o m i n g

Cats with long fur need constant grooming to prevent their fur from becoming matted. Even short-haired cats benefit from grooming; they still shed a surprising amount of fur despite the short length. A cat that fights grooming may need sedation and shaving at the vet for matted fur. So it's well worth your time to get your cat to at least tolerate grooming. Start with short sessions and stick to areas that your cat seems to enjoy first  (usually the top of the head and around the neck) and work your way out bit by bit.




B a t h i n g

Ordinarily, you don't need to bath a cat. Cats are very good about cleaning themselves and for most cats, that's all the bathing they will ever need. Though sometimes, it may get unusually dirty or may get something poisonous on its fur and you will need to bathe it. If your cat is long-haired, groom it before bathing. Water will just tighten any matting already in the coat.

Method
Choose a place where it is easy for your to control the situation. Having someone to help you hold the cat definitely helps. Make sure you have everything ready. Put a rubber mat on the bottom of the tub or sink to give your cat something to sink its claws into.

Use warm water; and have the water ready in the tub or sink -- this reduces the potential terror to your cat of the sight and sound of water coming out of the tap. If you have spray attachment, it will help you to soak the cat efficiently.

Use soap or shampoo formulated for cat, as human-type soaps will remove all the essential oils and leave the skin dried out and susceptible to flea infestations or skin break outs. There are also some soaps formulated for allergic pet owners. Use the soap sparingly and rinse well.

Towel dry the cat first or you can try a hair dryer on low settings -- depending on your cat's tolerance. Otherwise, keep them inside until they are fully dry. If your cat is long-haired, you will want to groom it as the coat dries. Give the cat a treat after the bath, this may help it tolerate the process.
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