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Samaipata- 
Archeological site of El Fuerte

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Samaipata
Bolivia

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El Fuerte

The main tourist attraction around Samaipata is the archaeological site of El Fuerte, 9 km east of town. 
Weather permitting, the ruins are reachable by any car. On the road to Santa Cruz there is a right turn off, after 5 km (marked) and a dirt road continues, climbing up the mountain for another 4-km.Crossing a stream there is an opportunity for bathing in a natural pool, 400 meters upstream.

The entrance fee of the ruins is for foreigners 32 Bs,  Bolivians 16 Bs and students 5 Bs. This includes an entry fee for the local museum in Samaipata where there is a model of the rock on exhibit. 


History


El Fuerte owns its existence to its geographical location in the foothills of the Andes (the Yungas) where the Amazon Basin and El Chaco (the dry flatlands of eastern Bolivia) meet. As a consequence many tribes crossed these valleys and archeological excavations revealed that the first men who inhibited this site belonged to an Amazonian tribe, the Mojacoyas, around 800 AD. Probably tribes from El Chaco lived here as well but it is certain that the Incas inhabited this place from the late 15th century until 1530.

 

They gave it the name of "Samaipata", which is Quechua (language of the Inca’s) and stands for “Rest in the heights”. Around 1540 the Spanish arrived and encountered an Inca fortress. They conquered the Incas and renamed the site "El Fuerte" or "The Fortress". They deserted the site around 1629 when they founded the settlement known today as Samaipata.

After the departure of the Spanish the whole complex became densely overgrown with vegetation. Some European adventurers explored the place in the following centuries. Despite this, not until 1974, was El Fuerte recognized as a site of archeological importance. At that point began the slow process of cleaning the carved rock, excavating and constructing a walking circuit.

Although much work has been done, the site, which may be as large as Machu Picchu in Peru, is largely covered by dense vegetation. Last year the UNESCO declared El Fuerte as a World Heritage Site. This increases the possibility that more funds will become available for further excavations and better maintenance of this unique, pre- Inca archeological site.


Route description

 

Sculptured Rock

From the entrance of the ruins you have to follow the path leading up to the West Side of the rock. To appreciate the size and features of this rock , recently a wooden platform and a 60 meter gangway has been constructed, affording an excellent view.
This rock formed the Ceremonial part of the complex.
South of the rock, mostly under thick vegetation was the
Residential and Administrative area.

 

Map of the sculptured Rock



The rock consists of fragile red sandstone, which enabled the various cultures to sculpt the entire rock. The most western part has some zoomorphic designs and includes 2 pumas (symbol of fierceness and agility), a jaguar (vital force) and a snake (fertility and eternity). The snake unites the beginning and end of life in relation to eternity. These animals still live up in the vicinity.
Moving eastward, along the rock there is an Inca Wall. Underneath this wall pre- Inca carved designs have been found, proving that more cultures inhabited El Fuerte.

Above the wall are two parallel running Canals with a length of 26 meters. In between are zigzag- patterned engravings. Probably priests held rituals, pouring liquids like water, chicha (fermented maize drink) and even blood through the Canals as an offering to Pachamama (Mother Earth). It is interesting to note that when there is water running through the zigzag shaped Canals, it gives the appearance of a slithering rattlesnake. Another 20m above the Canals is the Choir of Priests, two perfectly sculpted circles (5m and 7 meter in diameter) with triangular and rectangular seats (18 + 9). This is speculated to be a place of worship or sacrifice.

Now after enjoying the view start walking towards the rock and remain on the right side.
Soon you will arrive at the first of 5
Inca temples, partly cut out of the rock. Here are several trapezoid niches, (the upper part smaller then the lower part).  These indicate that the Incas built them. Another indication of Inca architecture is the wall, which supports the roof. In the niches were statues of their ancestors and gods. The niches were full of gold and silver (as we learned from the chronicles of the Spanish priests).

Continuing on the track next to the rock, there will be 4 more Inca temples. The second was built on a lower terrace. Only the niches remain.

Soon you will reach the Plaza de las Tres Culturas. Archaeologists have found the traces of 3 different cultures. First there are the foundations of an Inca house. Then there is the Spanish colonial house, built in the form of a W (Andalusia Architecture). Inside there was a patio.
Probably Spanish soldiers where living here as three large ovens were found (indicating food preparation for many people). The Spanish used the stones from the Inca temples. Besides destroying the temples, they took all the gold and silver. Nearby the house archeologists found a vase which was made by an Amazonian tribe, the Moyacoyas, around 800 AD. Underneath the foundations of the wall, ashes of organic building material were found, suggesting the dwellings of Pre- Inca tribes.

On this part of the rock there could have been an enormous amphitheater. This part of the rock it is full with seats and niches in rows. Beneath the rock, partly under vegetation, the main plaza could have been used for performances. People on the rock could hear the sounds coming up from the plaza.

The most eastern part of the rock is sculpted with canals, ponds and geometric designs. Some researchers suggest an enormous hydraulic waterworks system or a place designed for washing gold.

Now you are at the northern side of the rock. Here is an L-shaped Inca Wall. There has never been a roof, suggesting that this wall was merely a sign of power of the Inca Empire. From a distance the wall seems more impressive. The niches of the walls have been destroyed by Spanish priests in an effort to extinguish local beliefs. 

Finally you will arrive at the 5 Hornocinos temple. As this is a very windy place, it's hard to imagine why they built here a temple. It could have served as a meditation temple, as from here you can see a strangely formed mountain. 

The people considered this oddly shaped, high mountains as sacred, a place where their gods were living.

Residential/ administrative zone

Map of El Fuerte

 

 

At the Spanish house you turn left following the descending road leading into the Residential/Administrative zone.

The part which you cross now has been the Agricultural Sector that consisted of 9 terraces. A part of one of the terrace walls has been excavated and is visible. This terrace was as long as 250 meter and was used for cultivating potatoes, corn etc. A very sophisticated irrigation system was part of it.

At the lower terraces started the Residential Sector. First there is a complex of 3 Inca houses surrounded by a wall. There is only one Point of Entrance suggesting this was a Control Post. Only the foundations of the houses are visible. The walls where made of Adobe (a mixture of earth, clay and grass) which is still in use today (most Bolivian houses are made from Adobe) It keeps the house warm in winter and cool in summer. Archeologists have found here ashes from building materials used for other houses suggesting that the Incas where expelled by tribes from the lowlands (Chiriguanas) and that they later returned to El Fuerte.

Passing through the small entrance you will reach the foundations of 2 more Inca houses each with 2 entrances. Up to today, one entrance was only used for the removal of a dead person. Probably more families lived here. Nearby, a lot of provincial Inca ceramics were found. A custom (even today) was to offer ceramics to the gods when one left his house indefinitely.

Returning to the 3 Inca houses and continuing on, at the right side there is an enormous open space, the former Plaza.

Continuing, there is to the left the turn off for "La Chincana" or "Maze", a perfectly round shaped hole with a depth of 12 meter (but in 1940, 36 meter). There are all kind of speculations. It could have been a water storage room, an entrance to a tunnel system in order to escape the enemy, or a place to hide.
Return on the same way back to the Plaza. 

Bordering the Plaza was an enormous building called Kallaňka. This was probably the administrative center of the Incas. Its big dimensions  (68 m by 16 meter) suggest that “Samaipata”  (this was the name the Inca’s give to El Fuerte or “Heights to rest ”), was an important Provincial Capital of the Inca Empire, (the most Eastern Province). There is one more Kallaňka in Bolivia, near Cochabamba, more intact. Still the function of this building is not really known. It could have been a place for festivities, markets etc. The entrances are enormous (3.5. Meter) suggesting that the Inca himself was carried inside on his throne. Big pillars suggest that the building could be as high as 12 meter or even consisted of 2 floors.
150 meters further on, hardly visible was the Alklawasi or House of the Virgins of the Sun.  Pots with worn woman textiles were found here, 

Suggesting that this was the home of the intelligent and beautiful women, chosen by the Inca himself. Their main activity was weaving textiles.  There was a heavy Competition who could make the most beautiful ones. Textiles were used for offerings to the gods or for trading.

Bear to the left and you will reach the oldest part of El Fuerte. Here are 8 Inca houses. This part has never been destroyed and rebuilt by other tribes, what has happened to the largest part of the complex. From here there is a nice view over Samaipata.

Now follow the sign, passing through the agricultural area, arriving at the east side of the Rock and descending to the exit.


 

 

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