Mt. Rainier, Washington, USA (14,411 ft / 4392 m): via Disappointment Cleaver
July 2-7, 2004 (6 days)
- Mount Rainier
(14,411'): via Disappointment Cleaver
Tent Assignments:
Rope Teams:
- Team #1 (4 Climbers): Mike(lead)----Steve----Jim-----Gibran(rear) [55' apart max.]
- Team #2 (3 Climbers): Alex(lead)----Jamie----Miguel(rear) [80' apart max.]
Team Glacier Travel:
- Keep the climbing rope extended (not taut), but without undue slack.
- Keep the climbing rope perpendicular to the crevasse.
Crevasse Rescue Procedure:
- Stop the fall immediately (drop into self-arrest facing away from the direction of pull).
- Anchor (equalized double-runner or cordolette) the rope, leaving enough slack rope to reach the fallen climber.
- Check/communicate with the fallen climber (surface climber on belay while approaching crevasse edge).
- Devise a rescue plan:
- self-rescue: fallen climber prussiks up the rope.
- team-rescue: surface team members use a hauling system to pull the fallen climber out.
- Pad the crevasse lip.
- Carry out the plan:
- self-rescue: assist fallen climber as needed (like getting over the lip).
- team-rescue: set up a hauling system and haul the fallen climber out.
2004 Mt Rainier EQUIPMENT LIST
Crevasse Rescue Practice: Saturday, June 26, 2004 (Eaton Canyon bridge, Altadena, California)
Itinerary:
Fri JULY 2 (Day 1): Friday afternoon flight from LAX to Seattle. Arrive Seattle at ~ 7:00pm. Pick 2 rental cars and drive to Paradise. Arrive in Paradise 10:30pm.
Sat JULY 3 (Day 2): Mt Rainier. Start approach hike and set up basecamp at either Camp Muir (10,080 ft) or Ingraham Flats (11,000 ft).
Sun JULY 4 (Day 3): Rest day in basecamp. Practice crevasse rescue, anchors, and team arrest.
Mon JULY 5 (Day 4): 1st summit attempt. Alpine start. Be ready to move at midnight 12:00am. Suggested rest spots: (1) Ingraham Flats at 11,000', (2) Top of Disappointment Cleaver at 12,300', (3) High Break at 13,500' and (4) Summit Crater Rim at 14,150'. Descend to camp, break camp, descend to Paradise. Sleep in some motel.
Tue JULY 6 (Day 5): 2nd summit attempt. Or, for those interested, day climb
Mount St. Helens (8,365').
Wed JULY 7 (Day 6): Possible 3rd summit attempt. Late evening (9:15pm) flight out of Seattle. Arrive in LAX at 11:52pm.
LINKS:
- Sunlight and Moonlight for July 5, 2004
- Mt. Rainier Weather Forecast
- RMI's Disappointment Cleaver Interactive Route
- summitpost.org Disappointment Cleaver route description
- Paradise Web Cam
Back to my future climbs page.
Back to my mountaineering page.
Last Update: July 8, 2004
By Miguel Forjan
Email: [email protected]