Brief report:
I never even attempted the summit of Aconcagua as I felt dizzy most mornings at
Plaza Argentina basecamp (4200 meters or 13,780 feet). My cervical athritis
flared up and a pinched nerve kept me dizzy most of the time. Even though I did
acclimitize well as far as my blood oxygen saturation (%SpO2) was concerned
[measured typically 85% to 87%], I never felt 100% well. During my 6 nights
stay there at basecamp, I frequently visited the basecamp medical doctor who
advised me I was well acclimitized and could ascend higher but was not sure
how my cervical arthritis/pinched nerve would react up higher. So, after much
debating with myself, I (along with my partner, Mike Ostby) made the difficult
decision to end our expedition on Monday, February 7, 2005. Such a hard
decision it was as we had put considerable time, money and effort into our
expedition. I thought that by sleeping at higher altitudes I could develop
edema as a result of the dizziness I felt. Mike and I now both feel we made
the right decision. "Miguel, your health is first and above everything else,"
Mike kept telling me. I am very grateful to Mike Ostby (who felt fine all the
time) for staying together as a team. I am very disappointed yes, but I'm safe.
Any climber with common sense knows when to turn around and descend. While at
high altitudes, making the right decision can be the difference between life and
death. On Monday, February 7th 2005, I day hiked to 16,610 ft (a bit beyond Camp 1) and then on Tuesday, February 8th, I day hiked to Ibanez Col and walked past it to get a closer view of the South Wall of Aconcagua (from 16,650 feet) and the Lower Horcones Glacier that goes to Plaza Francia.
This is what my partner, Mike Ostby, had to say:
Hello All,
My climbing partner and I are back safe from our trip to Argentina,
attempting to climb the world's highest peak outside of Asia. Our
trip was cut short and unfortunately we did not summit. Below [sic. Above]
is a direct quote from my climbing partner and great friend Miguel
Forjan. Even though I felt great and acclimatized extremely well I was part
of a team and as a team we decided to end the expedition because of
the reason stated below [sic. above]. I praise my friend and partner
for the guts and the strength it took to overcome the desire to summit.
He exhibited values and character that are to be admired. The trip was
still fantastic and the experiences we brought home will never be
forgotten.
-Mike Ostby
Mike and I have already talked and we are planning to go back and attempt Aconcagua again in the next few years.
What follows are e-mail messages from friends expressing kind words in our failed attempt of Aconcagua. Please click here.