Aconcagua support: e-mails from friends
Thank you to all for your kind words. Mike Ostby and I
highly appreciated. Again, thank you so much.
--Miguel Forjan
April 22, 2005
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 10:21:20 -0800 (PST)
From: "Alexander Alexiades"
Subject: right decision
To: "Miguel Forjan"
sorry to hear you didn't make it. but, i agree, you
made the right decision. to go to that high of an
altitude you have to be 100%.
if you attempt again, please contact me during the
planning stages, because i would like to attempt
aconcogua also.
good luck with climbs in the near future.
alex
From: "Mark Ingram"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 10:33:17 -0800
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Hi Miguel,
Glad you are safe. There are plenty of mountains to conquer. Acon is on
my list, so when I go, maybe you will be ready to try again.
Mark
From: "Dave Lilly"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
CC: "Rob Caveney"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 09:06:22 -1000
Miguel,
I know you're disappointed, but you definitely made the right decision.
Your body was talking to you and you paid attention. Your priorities
are straight and your climbing partner, Mike, is first rate!!
Thanks for keeping me in the loop.
Aloha,
Dave
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 10:37:58 -0800
From: "Juan Carlos Marvizon"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
CC: [email protected]
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Querido Miguel,
Siento que no haya podido ser esta vez. Me acorde mucho de ti mientras esquiaba en Colorado.
Los remontes te suben hasta 3850 metros, y a mi me dolio la cabeza y me quedaba sin aliento
del mal de altura. Intentaba imaginarme como debia ser a los 7000 metros que tiene el Aconcagua.
Recuerdame que te ensen~e unos ejercicios que hago para el cuello. Es una parte muy delicada,
y cuando falta oxigeno duele la nuca, lo que lo complica.
Ayer estuve en Rockreation, pero no hize gran cosa. A ver si vamos la semana que viene.
Juan Carlos
From: "Dave LaSalata"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 14:26:21 -0500
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Miguel...
Discretion is the better part of valor and you made the wise and right
choice. There will always be other times and different mountains to
climb.
Rob and I did not summit Long's Peak. They got 3' of snow the day we
arrived and we were the only climbers in the Front Range Rockies last
week. We spent Mon-Tues ferrying our gear up to 11k to attempt a summit
on Wednesday. We broke trail the entire way all three days!! Finally
Wed. morning we decided that the Cables route (North Face) was just not
passible. Too much drifting snow on a 60 degree pitch = avalanche. So
we summited Mt. Lady Washington which sits in front of Long's Peak and
enjoyed a morning filled with wonderful views of the Rockies and great
companionship. The next day we went ice climbing in Big Thompson
Canyon - so all in all it was a great trip. Didn't get to the top but I
remain a firm believer that "the journey is most times better than the
destination" Talk to you soon and welcome home.
Dave
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:36:53 -0800
From: "yvonne tsai"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
To: "Miguel Forjan"
thanks for writing. very glad that you made the right call. terrific
partner.
I saw Ron Barry pulling into Sheep Pass campground 1/30 morning. And I
thought of Dan Kipper.
Like your quote of the British mountaineer. -Yvonne
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:44:20 -0800 (PST)
From: "James Considine"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Miquel:
Hope you are enjoying yourself anyway. Getting to Plaza Argentina is a trip in itself.
I am sure that you enjoyed it. Plus Mendoza is a great place to spend some time.
Check out the zoo and the park surrounding it.
Happy trails,
Subject: RE: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:21:22 -0800
From: "Travis Bushman"
To: "Miguel Forjan" , [email protected]
Miguel,
Sorry to hear that you couldn't summit but I know you made the right
decision. There are old climbers and bold climbers...but not many who
are both. I was in that position on Ixta in Mexico and turned around
just about 600' vert feet shy of the summit. Felt horrible but still
think its the best decision I've ever made. I was able to climb the
higher Pico de Orizaba successfully and safely just a few days later.
Hats off to you Mike for being a team player. I look forward to
climbing with you guys in the future.
-Travis Bushman
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 14:33:57 -1000
Subject: Disappointment, but a good decision
From: "Gail Caveney"
To: [email protected]
Miguel,
Dave Lilly sent me the email of your disappointment. He and I were
faced with the same decision the day after we met you on Mt. Whitney,
although for different reasons. To continue would have been unfair to
your climbing partner and possibly put both of you at risk. The experience
is supposed to be fun. Sounds like it wasn't going to be if you had
gone further. I commend you for a tough decision. The advice is good;
the mountain will be there a long time. Now, so will you.
Aloha, Rob
Subject: RE: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 17:26:33 -0800
From: "Murray, Dr. Elizabeth"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Miguel,
It sounds like you made a wise decision. I'm glad you're coming back
well and able.
Liz
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 10:24:57 -0600
From: "Bruce Worley"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
My Dear Friend: sorry to hear you were not well enough to climb higher
but you must be getting older and wiser since we were together last.
Climbing is like flying: taking off is only part of the trip. Getting
back safely is the most important part of the trip. My friends had
quite an adventure. One fellow had to be helievacuated and taken to the
hospital because of respiratory problems. Another got to 22,000 ft and
could not continue. Not sick, just couldn't go further. The other 3
made it but had rough weather descending.
When are you going back?
Take care and keep me advised of your next climb(s).
Bruce Worley.
From: "BRIAN JORDAN"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 09:25:48 -0800
M-
Your story is very inspirational and a reminder of what is truly important in life. Thank you for your honesty so that we all can learn from these experiences.
What is wonderful is that you are still alive to continue your love of climbing.
kat jordan
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From: "Tom Hartger"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Subject: Welcome back
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 11:36:19 -0800
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Tough luck, and a tough decision to make. I'm glad you're safe. Better luck next time.
Berg Heil!
From: [email protected]
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 17:56:10 EST
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
To: [email protected]
Hi Miguel,
I know exactly how it feels to have to turn around. You did the smart thing. I hurt my
foot at the beginning of climbing season and didn't get to climb at all this past year.
Good luck on your next attempt. I know you'll get it next time.
Duane
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 15:57:47 -0800
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
From: "Richard Casemore"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Miguel:
I'm so sorry to hear the news. So close, yet so far.
However, you are correct in your judgment, and lucky to have a partner
that understands without being selfish or upset. Most of my partners
have not been so understanding when I wasn't up to the challenge.
The mountain will be there, and you are still young.
Stay in touch,
Rick & Nancy
From: "Michael E. Gordon"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Subject: Re: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 21:50:30 -0800
> I'm just not going to risk my life for a summit. It is not worth it.
Really good choice, Miguel. It'll be there next year.
Michael
From: "Nancy Norris"
To: "Mike Ostby"
Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: Home from Argentina.....safe
> Hi Mike, It is unfortunate you were not able to
> summit but you certainly made the right decision.
> It's hard when you are feeling good and need to turn
> back but as you stated, you are a part of a team and
> that makes a difference. Remember Chimborazo? Same
> thing. My best to you and your climbing partner.
> I'll talk to you more after you arrive home and have a
> chance to reunite with your family.
> Nancy
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________
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Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 10:43:33 -0800
From: "R.J. Secor"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Subject: Re: Fwd: ACONCAGUA: no summit but safe
Thank you for sharing this with me. But I suspect you only saw the top
of the steep part with the gentle slope and east ridge hidden behind
the cliff. I climbed the Polish Direct in 1986. It was our third try and
we climbed it because it had the best snow condition
R.J.
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 11:01:42 -0800 (PST)
From: "Kevin Donaldson"
Subject: Re: Fwd: Home from Argentina.....safe
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Glad to hear you are back safe. Too bad about not summiting. I know
how much you have been preparing for this climb.
Cheers.
Kevin
From: "javier"
To: "Miguel Forjan" , "Miguel Forjan"
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 19:17:45 -0000
Subject: Re: Fwd: Home from Argentina.....safe
Hola Miguel, tienes que mandar una nota describiendo las cosas que
hicisteis por alla. Indicando dia a dia, altitud, mandar mogollon de fotos.
Todas esas cosas. No te de bajon en absolute, ni se te ocurra pensar
que fue mucha inversion de tiempo, dinero y esfuerzos para no lleguar
arriba. La experiencia que as adquirido es bestial, ya lo veras la proxima
vez que vayas a las sierras, veras todo diferente.
Esto de la altura es una loteria. Para mi, una de la cosas mas
importantes que aprendi en la montania, no son tecnicas ni historias, sino que
escalar en montania es una loteria y un acto de equilibrio (sin red).
Un loteria, donde si uno hace las mil cositas para prepararse, tener el
equipo perfecto, ni mas ni menos, las condiciones perfectas, entonces,
uno tiene una tenue oportunidad. Entonces uno se mete en una fina
linea, que te obliga a hacer un acto de equilibrio, durante toda la escala.
Cada decision tiene sus consecuencias, algunas brutales.
En este escenario uno hace los juicios apropiados para el momento.
Sin embargo, una vez que uno esta de vuelta en casa, y a salvo, uno
siempre piensa de nuevo la situacion y a menudo llega a conclusiones
diferente. A menudo uno piensa, quizas deberia haber hecho aquello otro, o
quizas esto. Estos pensamientos que uno tiene desde la seguridad y la
comodidad de la civilizacion, no tienen ningun sentido. Uno piensa y
decide lo que tiene que hacer cuando uno esta en la montania. Una vez en la
civilizacion, todo es un recuerdo glamuroso y sin sentido.
Un saludo companiero,
javier
From: "Javier Forjan"
To: [email protected]
Subject: Un par de vainas Miguel
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 21:29:43 +0100
Chamo Miguel: hay que tener un par de pesaos cojones pa deci lo que tu as dicho
y tomar y estoy orgulloso al igual que Papa de ti mi pana, si te parece bien mi
opinion, puedes volver a intentarlo el an~o que viene, antes de ir pa lla tienes
que entrenate bien se que la edad no esta a nuestro favo pero la voluntad y fe
puede mucho mas.
Superbien por ti may brother.
Frojan, J.J.
From: [email protected]
Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 17:42:49 EST
Subject: Re: Home from Argentina.....safe
To: [email protected]
Hi Mike,
Glad you both returned to the US safe. The mountain will be there
for a long time. I commend you both for making the right decision and not
letting egos get in the way of good judgement. Kudos to you both.
Great climbing,
Dave Van Selow
From: "GRACIA FORJAN"
To: [email protected]
Subject: PRIMA GRACIA
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 11:04:06 +0100
Hola, Miguel!:
Ayer me llego un mensaje en ingles que habias enviado a tus compan~eros de escalada.
Hoy he recibido otro de tu amigo Mike.
Siento mucho que no hayais alcanzado la cumbre del Aconcagua. Que lastima, primo!. Pero,
como tu bien dices en tu email, lo importante es volver con vida y no arriesgar esta de
modo innecesario. He creido entender que tuviste un pinchazo en las cervicales y tambien
problemas en la sangre, por la presion, por la altura y que alcanzasteis los 4200 metros,
es correcto?.
Me encanta la frase del montan~ero britanico que tienes en la cabecera de tu pagina web:
"Las montan~as estan siempre ahi. La idea es que tu puedas llegar a ellas" (a lo mejor,
mi traduccion es demasiado libre). Eres muy joven, Miguel, y puedes volver a intentarlo
y escalar muchas otras cimas. Creo que Mike Ostby es un gran compan~ero de aventuras y
se ha portado estupendamente al animarte y decirte que primero esta la salud y, despues,
todo lo demas.
Me gustaria saber si aun tienes molestias en la nuca u otro tipo de secuelas (espero que no,
que estes bien y con ganas de intentar otros proyectos).
El otro dia salio en el programa de TVE que te comente, precisamente, el Aconcagua.
Me lo conto el tio Manolo, yo no lo pude ver.
Bueno, espero tu respuesta. En los proximos dias te mando las fotos del viaje a Esteiro.
Un beso a mi primo favorito y a Karina:
Tu prima Gracia
P.D: Me alegro enormemente de que hayas llegado sano y salvo a Los Angeles. He rezado
para que no te ocurriera nada, sabes?.
Otra cosa mas: me he tomado la libertad de escribirte a tu correo personal (estaba en
el mensaje de tu amigo Mike). Si prefieres que te escriba al del trabajo, no hay problema,
ok, Miguel?.
From: "Murray Zichlinsky"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Subject: Re: East Face of Mt. Whitney
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 09:33:54 -0800
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Miguel,
Sorry to hear about the problems you encountered in Argentina. I know how
hard it was for you to make the decision to not attempt the summit. You
definitely made the right decision.
Murray
From: "Pedro Frigola"
Subject: Re: Home from Argentina.....safe
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 10:20:40 -0800
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Miguel,
Sorry to hear things didn't go as planned. But like you said, the
important thing is your safe, healthy and ready for the next mountain.
I found your trip planning information (itinerary, cost, gear) for
Aconcagua very helpful. I don't see it up on your website anymore. If
it's not too much trouble could you email that info (any format...html,
text, excel sheet...will do).
Thanks,
Pedro
From: "Radu"
To: "Mike Ostby"
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2005 9:10 AM
Subject: Re: Home from Argentina.....safe
> I was worried for the two of you as I was in Romania
> at the time and my brother thats a mountaineer-ski
> patrol lifeguard was telling me some ugly last minute
> avalanche stories about Aconcagua. I am very happy to
> hear you are back in one piece...
> Like you said ,,the mountain will always be there,,
> including Whitney, Mountaineers Route on the winter
> time which I wish we would attempt once again with you
> soon ...
> RADU
>
>
>
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 09:45:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Home from Argentina.....safe
From: "Vince Anderson"
To: "Miguel Forjan"
Hey Miguel,
It sounds like you made a good decision. I am sure that it was a
worthwhile experience, nonetheless. I have been there myself on many
occasions. I guess you will have to go back and try it some other time.
I am glad to hear that you returned safe.
Regards,
Vince