Rabbits

Rabbits live an average of 6 years. However, with good care a life span of 10 years is not unusual, which makes owning a rabbit a long-term commitment. Rabbits are quiet and inexpensive to house and maintain. Rabbits grow very quickly and will be fully grown by 6-8 months of age. Each unaltered rabbit should be housed seperately. Most do not get along well once they reach sexual maturity. If you are looking for an alternative to a dog or cat because of living conditions, a rabbit may be just perfect for you.

Netherland Dwarf	2 1/2 lbs.	Mini Lop	6 1/2 lbs.
Jersey Wooly	3 1/2 lbs.	Rex	9 lbs.
Holland Lop	4 lbs.	Palomino	10 lbs.
Mini-Rex	4 1/2 lbs.	Satin	11 lbs.
Dutch	5 1/2 lbs.	New Zealand	11 lbs.
Havana	5 1/2 lbs.	French Lop	12 lbs.
Florida White	6 lbs.	Flemish Giant	13+ lbs.

A young bunny should not be sold at less than 6 weeks of age, 8 weeks is preffered. A bunny should not be given any fresh vegetables like carrots or apples until he is 6 months old, and then use only as a treat once or twice a week. Never give a rabbit, of any age, iceberg lettuce!!! It is too watery and may cause diarrhea. You shouldn't over feed your rabbit. An adult rabbit should be fed the following amounts of pellets per day:

Dwarfs	1/2 cup
Mini-lops	3/4 cup
Larger rabbits (7-11 lbs.)	1 cup
Flemish Giant	1 1/2 cups

Important: Offer your rabbit an unlimited supply of hay. Rabbits need fiberous roughage in their diet to maintain a healthy digestive system.

A rabbit should never be picked up by the ears. Not only can it be painful to the animal, but it can also damage the ear tissues. You can pick up a rabbit by the fold of skin above the shoulders and one hand supporting the hind quarters. Or you could lift the animal from underneath, while providing support to the hindquarters, simply allowing the rabbit to rest on your stomach with all four feet against you. Remember, if your rabbit doesn't feel comfortable or safe it will scratch and kick out of fear. With children it is easier to just place the rabbit in their lap.

Making sure your rabbit is in an adequate cage is very important. The following table shows the minimum requirements for rabbits of different sizes. If you can afford it, a larger cage is better.

Indoor wire cages are best with mesh bottoms, allowing the waste to fall through to a solid litter pan. 50% of the cage floor should be solid to prevent sore hocks. If you are able to litter train your rabbit, I recommend a cage from Leith Petwerks.

Being larger animals, rabbits eat, defecate and urinate more than other caged animals do,so the bedding should be changed often. For outdoor hutches, see Rule #6 (below)

Free standing water bowls are not advisable because they can easily tip over and wet bedding. Self-sip water bottles are designed to prevent dripping and overall messiness. It also makes it easier to see if your rabbit is drinking enough water. If you rabbit is going to use an open water dish, make sure it is secured to the cage wires.

The cage and accessories should be thoroughly washed with Lysol and water at least once a month.

1. Bunnies under 6 months old are growing rapidly, it is not necessary to give them less food just because they are smaller. However, don't keep feeding your bunny just because his bowl is empty (unless it got knocked over). He will keep eating as long as there is food there. And always keep plenty of fresh water available. In the winter you may have to replace frozen water twice a day.

2. Don't neglect signs of diarrhea. Diarrhea indicates a serious problem. Please contact you veterinarian for help.

3. Don't let your rabbit run on chemically treated lawns. Be careful of tree spraying, (also neighbors). Cover your hutch when the area is being sprayed and bring your rabbit indoors. Even if your lawn is not treated, watch your rabbit, they can dig a hole in a matter of minutes and may find a way out of the yard.

4. You should not switch brands of food. Find one that is of good quality (16% or more crude fiber) and convenient for you, and stick with it! If you must switch brands, do it very gradually. Rabbits may refuse to eat if you suddenly switch brands. Mix the two brands gradually over the course of about a week, this should allow the rabbit to get used to the new food.

5. Don't let droppings accumulate under the cage. They should be raked up once a week. If you have a tray under your outdoor hutch it should be cleaned every day or two. If you let droppings accumulate, flies will lay eggs in a matter of days and you will have a maggot infestation. This is very dangerous and may lead to fly strike. (if the bunny's hind quarters are in close contact with the droppings, they themselves may become infested with maggots!) If your rabbit has fly strike get to the vet! You should check your bunnies at least once a week for any problems "down there". Check Angora rabbits everyday.The whole cage should be cleaned once a month with Lysol and water.

6. Rabbits do better in cold weather than they do in the heat. They can withstand temperatures below 0 degrees as long as they are protected from drafts. In the winter months enclose your hutch using clear plastic on both sides and the back, from the top of the hutch to three inches off the ground. A burlap flap should be placed along the front of the cage, this will keep drafts out while allowing for a mild exchange of fresh air.

In the summer months, the hutch should be well ventilated, and should not be in direct sunlight. Rabbits can over-heat rather quickly, and are uncomfortable at temperatures above 83 degrees F. Supply your rabbit with a frozen water jug, this will offer some relief from the heat.

Rabbits have very delicate respiratory tracts and inhaling smoke can hause great harm. Don't use heavily consentrated cleaners around your rabbit either, for the same reasons.

18 X 24 inch cage	is good for small or dwarf rabbits (2 to 4 lbs.)
24 X 24 inch cage	is good for a medium sized rabbit (5 to 7 lbs.)
24 X 36 inch cage	is good for a large sized rabbit (8 lbs. or more)