The earliest form of
Kebaya originates in the court of the Japanese Majapahit
Kingdom as a means to blend the existing female Kemban,
torso wrap of the aristocratic women to be more modest
and acceptable to the newly adopted Islam religion.
Aceh, Riau and Johor Kingdoms and Northern Sumatra
adopted the Javanese style kebaya as a means of social
expression of status with the more alus or refined
Javanese overlords.
Slowly it naturally spread to neighbouring areas
through trade, diplomacy and social interactions to
Malacca, Bali, Sumatra, Borneo, Sulawesi and the
Sultanate of Sulu and Mindanao. Javanese kebaya as known
today were noted by Raffles in 1817, as being of silk,
brocade and velvet, with the central opening of the
blouse fastened by brooches, rather than button and
button-holes over the torso wrap kemben, the kain (and
unstitched wrap fabric several metres long erroneously
termed 'sarong in English (a sarung (Malaysian accent:
sarong) is stitched to form a tube, like a Western
dress) After hundreds of years of regional
acculturation, the garments have become highly localised
expressions of ethnic culture, artistry and tailoring
traditions.
The earliest photographic evidence of the kebaya as
known today date from 1857 of Javanese, Peranakan and
Eurasian styles.