
February 18, 2016 1.20 AM
Boys will be boys-and if the Fall 2016 collections are any indications, they're about to be boys in exberant style. The latest round of collections brought with it shaggy toppers, mirrorlike metallics, Technicolor knits, cowboy shirts-and, yes, even a Snoopy cameo or two. We're breaking down the season's key trends in all their irreverent, gender-bending glory. By Qayyum Rahman
Call it Yeezy effect. Everywhere Kanye West went sporting his MA-1 bomber jacket,
the menswear designers followed. This season's crop of flight jackets offered up a myriad of variations on West's standard issue, from textured Louis Vuitton
to the fur-trimmed at MSGM.
New broke that Dolce and Gabbana is producing a collection of hijabs and abayas targeted to Muslim customers in the Middle East . The garments, while engineered for modesty, have all the flair of any other Dolce and Gabbana collection. A little jewel encrusted lemon here, some black lace trim there and are styled alongside the bags in a lookbook shoot. To muslim women with a taste for luxury fashion, this collection is an exciting development.
Pre-season collections are, to paraphase the old line, like a box of chocolates. You're as apt to see a sweet summery dress as you are a shearling topper, and the retail-oriented nature of the lineups means that trends can be tough to trace which isn't to say that they aren't there. Pre fall finds designers obsessing over print, texture, and color, color, color. No doubt, soon you will be, too. See all the trends in Vogue Malaysia.
The collection was divided into three categories, which Posen intermingled on the catwalk. In addition, to the colorful suiting, there was a large group of black draped silk dresses. They twisted around the torso, fluttered at the shoulders, and fell to mid-calf in asymmetrical, paneled harms. A few were trimmed inglinting jet beads and Posen layered one over a pair of loose-fitting trousers. By the end, these felt repititive, but they proved his point, he knows his way around more than a corseted dress. The most unexpected part of the show were the liberity print cotton frocks. In the past, informal clothes haven't come naturally to Posen, who has always had a flair for the dramatic. But he did thid here to inject these dresses with a summery breziness. The collection ships in the summer, so it was a savvy move.
Gilles Mendel isn't the first designer to set his sights on truly effortless refinement, but his show today was a step in that direction. While past J.Mendel collections may have been glamorous in an overt way. Fall found the designer thinking along subtler lines. He started with an unlikely mix of references. Tamara de Lempicka's graphic Art Deco paintings and Sheila Metzner's delicate, soft focus photographs. "Both artists celebrated beauty and elegance, and they both loved flowers," Mendel explained before the show. It turns out each women also had a different take on Mendel's while Mertzner's was modest and bit hazy.
Mendel interpreted those calla lilies as a print on a ruby and cobalt balconette dress, and as a beaded motif on a glittering , floor sweeping gown. But you could also sense the flowers curves in the simple draped dresses, sculpted bustiers, and overall lack of frippery. Instead of making an audacious visual statement, Mendel wanted it to be about the feel of the clothes, which admittedly isn't as easy to appreciate on a computer screen. But it was the pared-back looks that felt most compelling. Rather than play into the rainbow fur trend, for instance Mendel's sheared mink coats had subtle pinstripes. Crepe separates were flourish-free, save for white topstitching here and there and evening dresses skimmed the body "like liquid", so the women who wear them will feel unencumbered. If the asked to pick out the most opulent pieces of all, though no one would point to the suede jacket and shirtdress that appeared to be crocodile-embossed but were actually made of real sueded crocodile skin. Both items were jaw-droppingly luxe, yet rendered in the painest of colors taupe and navy. That's understated luxury at its finest.
From the first sight of her gothy black liner and lipstick, foot high platforms, shrunken band concert sweatshirt, crocheted doily collar and full skirt balooning above a crinoline, we knew we were in for a show. Sixty five heavily embellished, manically lavered, and mostly black looks later, pretty much floored. Like a lot of MJ collections, this one was full of callbacks, one of the pleasure of attending his shows is that they stir up memories. That concert sweatshirt was, of course, a direct reference to Spring 2016, but it took me back to Spring 2016, the season of the Penn State Blue Band. Black and white polka dot called to mind Jacob's Edie Sedgwick show, the long capes evoked last Fall Diana Vreeland moment. That game could go and on all night. The trick was how Jacobs made the clothes both familiar and new, recasting all of them in black and white and shades of gray and playing with proportions. Most of the time, he sized jackets and coats way, way up, but he shrunk some, too like Julia Nobis's fabulous crystallized bolero. The outerwear and the sparkly evening pieces are likely to be the major takeawys for retailers.
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