This is a view of dawn over Prince Rupert as we head down the channel to the open sea, the Pacifice Ocean

And this is the view of the Queen Charlotte Islands, the ancestral Haida Gwaii. It is raining. Haida Gwaii is known for its beauty, especially that of the rain forest. It rains.

We have driven up through deep evergreen forests to the cottage we had booked but found it wouldn't do. We headed to Masset at the North of the island but could not find anything.

So we are on our way back to Skidegate - pronounced skid-e-gate - to sort out something else. We have been planning to stay for a couple of weeks but we may have to rethink it.

Yesterday