24 June

Sending off

Time seems to pass particularly slowly in Myanmar and few of us are prepared to say goodbye as yet. There are so many happenings within a short span of time that we are not aware at all of the passage of time. Back home, we have appointments to meet, phone calls to make and daily mails to check, reminding us constantly we are in a race against time. Over here, we have the luxury of spending time with ourselves, free from these ubiquitous distractions. Imagine not receiving any messages on your mobile phone, reading the papers, or writing emails for one week! And there is nothing to remind you remotely that you are a Singaporean. We are in another world where we don't really belong to, but become stuck in as a matter of mere coincidence. 

There were no tears or bear-hugs as the team checked in, only sincere hand-shakes and a smile of encouragement. I was glad that everybody enjoyed the trip. This is my solace and compensation for not being able to achieve our primary objectives. It was definitely more enjoyable than last year's trip though many would argue I do not appear to be happy or satisfied. I was more relieved than anything else and at this moment, it suffices to cover the inherent disappointments and disenchantment. Nobody would be able understand my predicament unless he is in my shoes. I am not here for a holiday or a social visit. I had a load of responsibilities upon me and I must discharge them with the best of my abilities. It is a moral obligation both to myself and to my friends who have lent me their support in good faith. A small step in a long arduous road ahead; who would be able to see my world view? A visionary I may not be, but a man who seeks to see farther than his contemporaries. Because he thinks more, he ponder more often and he is always restless and worrisome. He has little regard for his personal happiness for it bears no meaning in the midst of the suffering around him. 

Myanmar Education Research Bureau

Thuzar had arranged a meeting with us in the late morning with her teacher, Mr. U Myint Han, who is also the Director of the Myanmar Education Research Bureau (MERB). Alex and I have been toying with the idea of "adapting-a-school" in Myanmar and Thuzar was responsible for conveying our proposal to her teacher. The MERB, a Department under the Ministry of Education, is responsible for increasing the population's access to a broad-based English education through non-formal education (NFA), continuing education (CE), and education for all (EFA).

Education is the process by which human behavior can be changed and education is the key to a nation's development. Though we are unsure of how we can contribute, we are excited by the prospect. We were welcomed by Mr U Myint Han in his office. He is a 50 years old gentleman with a scholarly outlook, his thick black glasses a rarity amongst Burmese. He speaks decent English and after dispensing with the formalities, he displayed an sense of urgency and eagerness to get on with serious business. He was proud of the work done by the Bureau under his leadership over the years, explaining to us in great detail every facility of the Bureau during our tour. We visited the language laboratory, where students learnt both English and Burmese, the recording room which produces Burmese multimedia - videotapes and CDs for educational purposes, the printing press which produces their own educational charts teaching English with translation in Burmese, the exhibit rooms displaying the projects of his students, the library and the nurseries. 

I was moved by his passion and ideals. He is a firm believer of the importance of education and is determined to bring it to the rural populace which are often deprived of primary education due to geographical isolation and inaccessibility. He seems very enthusiastic to work with us and suggests we sent him a proposal for collaboration after we returned to Singapore. I was quite flattered by his high opinions of us, seriously, I do not know how we can be of service to his Bureau given our tight schedule and limited resources. I think we can start in Kyauktan and Bilin first since we have already established some sort of contacts there and we have visited the schools. Supplying the schools with educational materials and the students with stationeries are the only things we can do in the near future, but it can be a small start for us to expand our programme into other area if we are able to do so. 

With Mr U Myint Han and Thuzar

Of Mohinyas and Burmese milk tea

Before driving us to the MERB, Thuzar sent her sister to the Institute of Medicine. She is having a test on Forensic Pathology. We met Phyo there, her classmate who runs a beer garden and with whom we knew during our trip in March. He invited us to his place at night though he had a paper on Social Medicine two days later! I have finally found my match in slacking, don't need I have the courage to even attempt that!

We didn't drink beer this time though. Phyo introduced his two business partners to us and we had a chat in his office. Sun Peixin and Sun Peixun are two brothers who are Phyo's college classmates. The elder brother, Peixun, was educated in Taiwan and he was elated to have somebody to speak Mandarin too. His mandarin has a thick Taiwanese accent about it. He knows a lot about current affairs, both in and outside Myanmar. We hit on almost immediately. He loves Myanmar deeply and wants to contribute to his country though he acknowledges that present circumstances does not permit to do so. Compared to Phyo, he was realistic about Myanmar's political future but does not express any resentment about the military junta. There is a dearth of emotion in his tone, skilfully concealing his shrewdness and insight. There are many talented and capable young people in Myanmar and if they are given the education and career opportunities like what we have in Singaporeans, it won't be long before Myanmar is back on the path of development again. 

After closing shop at 10am, Phyo and co drove us to have Mohinya, or 'rice-fish soup', a favourite Burmese dish. I wasn't particular attracted to it though I obliged by finishing half a bowel. I thought it tasted quite bland and a bit weird perhaps of the spices added. I enjoyed Malay and Indian food, but not Burmese curries and dishes. Next, we had Burmese milk tea along a road-side stall. A 24-hour stall? The customers certainly are not in a hurry to leave as they remained stuck to the stools continuing their conversation, the night-life of the Burmese in a place with few night clubs, discos, cinemas and entertainment outlets and it must have remained unchanged for the past 50 years. 

Peixun implored me to stay for a longer period the next time I come; they would love to bring me around to see the beauties of their country such as the Inle Lake, Ngapali beach and the scenic Chin Hills. Phyo is adamant that he leaves Myanmar for higher education after his graduation a year later. He was the last batch of students to have "escaped" the new ruling in which fresh medical graduates have to serve a 3-year bond with the government. He shook his head, saying that those who remained behind will never be able to get out. The Burmese are very gentle and polite people and they do not express their emotions easily unlike us. Even if they appeared to be angry of frustrated, they still able to maintain their "cool". Anyone else might have reprimanded Phyo for not wanting to stay and serve his fellow countrymen. I can empathize with him because during my 2 and half year military stint, I was eager to get out of it as soon as possible. I suppose as ambitious youths, we all want to achieve something in life. Similarly, just like I feel I'm wasting my time in the army, Phyo must have felt the same with staying in Myanmar. What else could he have done here? He would be much better off in a foreign land and his family is able to afford to send him away. U Aung Gyi, a Burmese doctor in our team, pleaded with me yesterday to help his daughter find a job in Singapore. She doesn't want to work in Myanmar. What a joke, I'm spending hundreds of dollars in order to visit a place where everybody is dying to get out!

A favourite mid-night haunt for the Burmese - sipping Burmese milk tea by the road.

On looking back, I'm grateful for what Singapore has given me, without which I wouldn't even be able to travel abroad. Peixun said he had great admiration for Lee Kuan Yew, for transforming Singapore from a backward British colony to a developed country with one of the highest living standards in the world. The Burmese politicians are too nationalistic, narrow and lack the foresight of Lee, otherwise, Myanmar may be in a different state now. Phyo and Peixun are certainly no less smarter or capable than me, but they were not given opportunities to show their talents. I was. That's the difference. On the other hand, while they may feel grievous about the military junta depriving their participation in nation-building, there is where Singapore is very similar to Myanmar except we bothered to put in sophisticated efforts in packaging ourselves as a free country - A democracy in which the opposition is virtually non-existent, having debates in Parliament after bills are passed and where any dissenting voices are quickly snuffed out quietly or stamped out openly in the judicial system. The Burmese generals embarked on an anti-narcotic campaign in Yangon when everyone else in the world knows that Myanmar is the world's largest producer of heroin. A political gimmick to deceive the locals or the visiting UN diplomats I do not know, but certainly nobody will fall for it.

Well, I certainly bear no grudges against our leaders though we always complain about rising prices, school fees cost of living. We are brought up in a politically apathetic environment and we have grown to accept that there is only one official channel in the country. There is no need to debate, argue or fight. I am contented just to follow because Singapore is full of capable and aspiring leaders. They do not need a person who has no interest in politics or governance. I am happy to lead a stable life and to live a worthy life helping others in need. What more can I ask for?