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		The interior of the church, from the rough board floor, to the simple cruciform chandeliers holding real candles, to the original full set of paintings by Pedro Fresquis, one of the best known 18th-century santeros, makes the mission at Las Trampas like no other on the continent. Leaving there, we continued on 76, then turned north toward Taos on State Route Three, and headed into the Carson National Forest. The road continued to go higher; up and up we went, into the snow-covered pines -- it must have been a thousand meter high. Then abruptly, we passed the summit and headed down into Rancho de Taos.



Here was the natural place to end the day's excursion, standing outside the incredible adobe sculpture which is the back side of the St. Francis of Asisi mission church in Taos. It was this view which so entranced Georgia O'Keeffe, and led her to paint it about 1920. No photography is allowed inside the Taos mission, and we were happy to respect that prohibition, especially since the charm and beauty of this place lies in its exterior, not on the inside, and its most spectacular aspect is the rear rather than front, which is more or less pedestrian looking. I'll return to New Mexico in the spring, as I have only begun to absorb the legacy of its spectacular old Spanish Catholic churches, living and dead. This time I saw only a few of the churches which are still active parishes and none of the ruins. Obviously, there's more to come.



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