Cut the new preload spacer
• If your replacement springs are a different free length than the OEM springs, you'll need to adjust the length of the preload spacer that you pulled from the bottom of the tube. The object is to preload the spring about 15 mm with the preload adjuster screwed all the way out and the damping rod fully extended. You can insert the spring, plastic spacers, washers and preload tube (but not the preload spacer), then screw the preload cap onto the damping rod and pull it up. With the preload adjuster installed and at its highest adjustment level, measure the distance between the preload adjuster pins and the top of the washer on the preload tube. Add 15 mm and that should be right.
   
• Alternatively, compare the lengths of the old spring and new spring, then adjust the length of the preload spacer so that the sum of the old spring and old spacer is the same as the new spring and spacer.
   
• Or even easier, you can use blind faith and ask the spring manufacturer how long the spacer should be. Traxxion keeps records of installations they've done in the past, and instructed me to use 128 mm. This was what I did.
   
• You can shorten up the existing preload tube if you need to reduce the spacer size. Or 1-inch PVC water pipe is easy to cut in a chop saw and doesn't weigh too much. I had some lightweight aluminum tube (from previously purchased Race Tech springs) that was light and doesn't displace much fluid. No matter what you choose, deburr and clean it with soapy water after cutting.

On the left is the OEM spring and spacer. On the right is a Traxxion Dyanmics 0.95 kg/mm spring and a 128 mm aluminum tube cut for a spacer. On the far right, you can see the preload tube assembly (bushing on bottom). In the foreground is the slotted washer (tool #2) used to clip down the spring. (Click on image to enlarge.)

Replace the oil
• Oil level should be measured from the top of the collapsed fork tube, with the cartridge in place but without any spacers or springs installed. Its helpful to make a dipstick with two marks on it if you don't have the professional level tube to set the oil level.
   
• I'm not sure what the factory oil level is, but Traxxion recommended 150 mm. Racetech's website recommended 80 mm! Using Traxxion's recommendations, I was left with a couple ounces of oil in each 475 ml bottle (maybe using 425 ml). Myself and other Falco owners have measured how much OEM oil was drained from the forks, and the value seems to be 455 ml. So I'd guess that Traxxion's recommendations are lower than stock.
   
• Before verifying the final oil level, pump the damping rod up and down a dozen or so times. Pump it slowly as oil will start flowing from the rebound hole in the tube. Its a good idea to check this hole, because on one of my forks it had a large peel of steel stuck in it from the drilling operation. Let the fork drain internally for a few minutes then verify the oil level.

If you do a lot of fork oil changes, they sell rigid tubes with adjustable height stoppers that reach down the fork tube. A syringe then pulls out excess oil until the level is correct. Here I used my standard stick of scrap dipstick (not too big--you don't want to displace much oil). Oil level is almost always specified with the springs and spacers removed and the fork collapsed. The damping assembly remains bolted in the fork (otherwise, the oil would leak out the bottom!)

Assemble the fork
• Drop the preload spacer into the oil, followed by the washer, then the spring. Before placing the preload tube in the oil, you'll want to tie a piece of safety wire to the damping rod so you can pull it up. Then place the preload tube, plastic spacer and final washer over the damping rod.
   
• Using the safety wire, pull the damping rod up (fully extended). I even tied the wire to the ceiling to hold it. Using the spring compression tool, compress the preload tube and put the clip under the lock nut. Again, you only want to compress this tube enough to expose the lock nut. Hold the damping tube up while you do this or you'll have to compress the tube further and risk damaging the bushing.
   
• Remove the safety wire and screw on the red preload cap. Tighten the cap, then use the spring compression tool once more to remove the clip from under the lock nut. Slowly release the spring tension. Remove the spring compressor, and screw the preload cap into the fork tube snugly.
   
• Replace the preload pins (make sure the pins are aligned in the holes), then thread in the preload adjuster. Replace the wire clip on the top of the rebound adjuster.
   
• Stroke the forks several times. They should compress and rebound smoothly. The bushings will make some sliding noise but shouldn't click.
   

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