• From below, slide the fork back into the triple clamps. You'll want to align one of the marks on top of the fork to the upper triple clamp, or use a caliper to measure the height if you weren't using a mark. Stock, the bike is aligned to the third line from the top (not including the very top most line at the edge). I'm running mine with four lines showing.
   
• Tighten the lower triple clamp first, then the preload cap. Finally the upper clamp and clip-ons. The torque specs for the M8 bolts are 25 N-m.
   
• When the forks are tightened, you'll want to test their alignment by slipping the axle through them. You may have to rotate the fork tubes slightly, but you shouldn't have to compress either tube to get the axle so slip through easily.
   
• Replace the fender, then the front wheel and calipers. After lowering the bike to the ground, replace the plastic air dam and upper screws on the plastic horn cover.
   
• Reset the compression and rebound damping screw positions. You'll want to check the sag again. A good target for rider sag is 32 - 35 mm.
   

  With four or five lines showing, I got about 34 mm rider sag, 22 mm static sag (quick measurements). Usually with lighter springs you need less rebound, more compression. I reset both rebound and compression to 1.5 turns out from full in and with this setting I seem to get a comfortable ride, nearly full fork travel but no bottomming yet. More testing and tuning to come I'm sure...

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