Q: One thing I would like to know what kind of frame the tc
has. I've been told it has a steel frame.
A: The box that sets in the bed of the pick up truck is constructed of
plywood-----the sides are 5/8 inch (I think) and the floor, wings, and
bunk bottom are a 'sandwich' of plywood with solid foam in the center.  I
think the front bulkhead (the vertical part with the window that matches
up with the pick rear window) is layers of plywood glued and stapled
together--not sure because I did not tear mine apart in this location.
However, in drilling and riveting, I did not find any foam insulation. (Update from austinsailor:) The front of the camper, where the window behind the cab is located, is made of a sandwich of plywood and foam like the wings.  I took the trim off of my window to apply laminate across there and found the edges exposed.)
There are also reinforcing ribs of wood within the 'sandwich' on 2 ft.
centers (again, I think) and also reinforcing wood at the points where
the jacks attach.  The framing in the rest of the camper is aluminum 'C'
channel with foamed in place insulation filling the cavity between the
riveted outer and inner skin.

Q: Does that [Parbond] come from camper outlets places, or is it a general
product?
A: Parbond comes from RV dealers---it's a little pricey, but does a terrific job.  I used the clear to seal the joint of the window pane/frame, and the aluminum color for the skin seams.  The original sealer used by the factory is Ten-X, but I have not tried to buy it for years and don't think it's even made anymore.  I've also had success with a latex product by DAP called 'Formula 230.'   I've used Parbond on all five Avions that I have owned---I've only used the Formula 230 on the TC.  Both products come in silver and clear.  I'm hoping that the Formula 230 lasts as well as the Parbond, since it is much cheaper and comes in a standard caulking tube.

Q: You mentioned on your website that you replaced the staff in your antenna.  Any hints on how to do that?  Does it have to come out of the camper to change it?
A: My original antenna mast was broken off, so I purchased a replacement mast that attached to the stub of the old one with a set screw.  I didn't have to remove the old one and replace it with a whole new antenna assembly.  I'm pretty sure that you have to remove the interior skin at the location of the antenna, and then remove the mounting screws from the inside.

Q: If I ever get caught up I would like to do a renovation.  My question to you is, Would you do it again?
A: The answer is yes, I would do it again without reservation.  In fact, if you know of a decent Avion truck camper or small Avion trailer for sale, I'd sure like to know about it.  I'm ready to start another one as soon as I finish this one.  I'd like to start with one that is a little better preserved the next time.  I've had to work on every thing that I've touched on this one.

Q: Are you going to convert to a demand type water system?
A: My camper already had a demand water system (came that way from Avion), but I had to clean mold and mildew from the plastic tank, install a new pump, and re plumb the water system.  It originally had a Jabsco/PAR pump, but I changed it to a Shurflo so that I could mount the pump above the tank outlet.  Jabsco/PAR pumps are really great pumps, but they should be mounted at or below the level of the tank outlet-----A Shurflo pump can be mounted several feet above the tank and still work well.

Q: What are you doing for a furnace, assuming you have one?  Does your original still work?
A:  I have the original wall type furnace and it still works.  I have not yet figured out how to remove it----but removing it is in my plans.  I'm considering leaving it out and using the space for more storage----just go without a furnace.  We normally go to developed campsites when the weather is cold, so a small portable electric heater should do the trick.  Update: After talking to the guys at Cayos, I'm rethinking my decision to remove the furnace.  Another update: I cleaned/tested the furnace and refurbished the blower---it will roast you!!  I had test fired it earlier, but did not let it burn for any length of time since I had not checked out the flue and such.  I think I'll keep it-----it is a great little furnace!!

Q: .  How much insulation is there in it?  is it just a thin film, or did they really fill the cavity? Was it pretty much intact, or did the leaks or whatever destroy some of it?
A: The cavity between the outer and inner skin is pretty much filled.  Mine was intact as it seems to be unaffected by water.(boy, I'm sure glad that it doesn't have fiberglass batts like Airstream).  The wiring is done first and then the foam insulation is sprayed on----thus all the wiring is embedded in the insulation.  After the insulation is sprayed, any that is too thick is carved off with a sharp tool to get it down to the required level.

Q: What did you find to clean it [the exterior] so well?
A: I used a household cleaning product called "The Works" tub and shower cleaner and #00 steel wool.  "The Works" has phosphoric acid in it so be SURE to wear rubber gloves if you use this. I poured "The Works" into a plastic bowl, dipped the steel wool into it, and scrubbed the skin----then rinsed with an old towel dipped in clear water and wrung out. After cleaning, I polished with an RV product called "Par Fe".  I applied the Par Fe straight from the container [do not dilute as directed by the directions on the container], and then wiped with a dry towel.  "The Works" is distributed by Lime-O-Sol Company, PO Box 395, Ashley, Indiana, 46705, and is available in this part of the world from Dollar General Store or Wal-Mart.  "Par Fe" is available from (or can be ordered through) almost any RV dealer's parts department.

Q: Do your know if it ("The Works" tub and shower cleaner) takes off the anodizing?
A: It does NOT remove the anodizing.

Q: I have one place that I haven't gotten sealed (that I know of) and that is the joint right at the front where the top and back meet, that curved place above and just
behind the pickup door.   It's two curved edges that meet up and there is too much movement for my liquid solder to stay.  Any suggestions?
A: The best way to seal it is from the inside (not what you wanted to hear, I know).  I had to replace some rotted wood in this area because mine had leaked here (and everywhere else).  After using a roofing tar type sealer inside, I sealed mine outside with Parbond.   Since I've not hauled mine on a truck, I don't know if mine will stay sealed or not----the Parbond may not stay any better than the Liquid Solder if there is any movement   If there is too much movement for the Parbond to hold, I will probably use silicone caulk (ugh) or some other very flexible silver-colored caulk to seal it---maybe something from the boating world.

Q: Are you nuts?  I can't believe that you would buy something [the TC] in such bad shape, let alone try to restore it.
A:  Well, yes, I might be a little unstable to tackle a project such as this.  But here is my thinking:  I would rather have an old Avion than just about any 'stick and tin' camper that you can name.  Even though they tend to leak if not well maintained, an  old Avion was built with the quality of materials and attention to detail that is sadly lacking in a new camper.  Avions were built to last a lifetime if properly maintained---how many other brands can you honestly say the same about?  Also, as I was reminded, while someone who spends twenty thousand dollars for a new one is working to make the payments, I can be using and enjoying mine.

Q: How much does your truck camper weigh?
A:  I took it to a public scale and it weighs 2,260 pounds dry, but with full LP tanks.  This is for the complete camper with the jacks attached, but without any supplies (cookware, dishes, clothes, food, bedding, etc.).

Q: How difficult is it to remove and replace the interior skin  Could you give more details on the process?
A:  It's a fairly straightforward process and a relatively easy task provided that you have basic do-it-yourself skills.  Anyone who can use a drill and a pop-rivet tool can accomplish the job with ease.  Here is how I did it:

                1. The pop-rivets that hold the skin to the framework were drilled out with
                    a 1/8 inch drill bit and a cordless VSR drill/driver.
                2. The skin panels were removed and cleaned.
                3. The skin panels were reinstalled by attaching with ordinary white
                    aluminum pop-rivets using the existing holes.  I used an ice pick to
                    align some holes for the first few pop-rivets----after that, it was just a
                    matter of using the rivets themselves to align the panel.

It really is just that easy!!  Although the interior skin (vinyl covered) in my TC was an off white color, I used plain white pop-rivets and they look great.  Many different colors of pop-rivets are available from any good residential siding/guttering supply company, although most of them prefer to sell only to siding/guttering professionals.  The colored pop-rivets are used in the installation of gutters and downspouts, and for the installation of aluminum soffit/facia trim.

 
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