ubud
ubud, an inland town, is known as the center of cultural tourism in bali.  as a result, there are lots of tourists, but it manages to retain a sense of community, despite all the pale faces walking around.  when you get off the main streets, there are tons of little lanes full of family compounds that have been transformed into guest houses for budget travellers.  almost all these compounds have beautiful gardens in the center, with small bungalows arranged around the perimeter.  there is a large gate around the complex, with the door in the middle of the wall.  it was explained to me that this keeps the bad spirits out, as they can't turn right angles very easily.  though ubud is very busy, and everyone seems to have an art gallery, the pace of life seems slower and more relaxed.  we ended up staying here for almost half our time in bali.
morgan relaxes on the lanai of our $4 bungalow.  bali is a dream come true for people with a... 'frugal nature' like me.
a view of bali's highest volcano across the rice paddies surrounding ubud.  we rented mountain bikes this day, and although it was rather hilly, we really enjoyed getting out in the country.
an example of amazing balinese wood carving at the neka art museum.
two balinese women on their way to the temple with offerings.
balinese new year:
we were lucky enough to be in bali for their new year celebrations.  neighborhood groups all over bali create enormous demons out of foam and paper mache, then on the night before new years,  parade them through the towns.  the parade is called ogor ogor. from our vantage point on the second floor deck of a restaurant, we could see everything.  the picture to the right doesn't really do justice to the detail of these creatures.  the following day is called nypei, and is a day of total quiet on bali.   no cars, no radios, no electricity...  the idea is that if the island is dark and quiet, the bad spirits will think no one lives there, and will leave.  definitely a unique experience...
ummmm.... two less detailed ogor ogors.
on to the temples!
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