(May take a while to load but its worth the wait)
If you already have a series one, then have any cracks repaired before you begin this project.
Reason being the power and torque produced, not to mention the over excitement you will have when
driving and cornering hard. The power difference is unbeleivable. Just enough not to make it ridiculous.
Therefore you must fix these problems- or you will have to do it later anyway. And it will cost maybe more than a few hundred dollars. If the cracks are not repaired and you do install it, then the car will be scrap very soon.
* Cross memeber - very important !
* Fuel tank and fuel pump - Tank is baffled and also has different return lines ect
* All relays
* Bosch computer
* Wiring harness complete with all plugs- if you find any servered plugs ask where they are
* Sway bar -Sway Bar bushes
* Exhaust headers and full exhaust system
* Exhaust heat shield- for underneth the car - lives above the exhaust section after the headers.
* Radiator /overflow tank and hoses- the rubber hoses are bent for the exact shape of the engine
* Radiator Thermo fans
* Horns
* 16v Calipers/rotors and pads - Much improved braking
* NGK PFR 6B Spark Plugs
* Airbox, airflow meter
* Engine stabiliser mounting
* All associated engine bolts/plugs/ whatever you can scab of the wreckers
* 16 V exhaust system- unless you are going to get a custom made one. Do not use the 1.5 system. Too small
Having said that the 1.7 GB will take off at about 4200rpm, all the way to 9000rpm, where the 1.5 will start to fade off at 8000rpm.
Its up to you, personally I have driven with both GB's and I refer the 1.5 Unless you are driving on freeways all the time then get the 1.5 GB
* Remove the bonnet and the front bumper. Unless you want to scratch everything in sight.
* Remove the radiator- remember that there is a drainage plug on the rhs of the engine. Drain the water from here.
* Remove the battery - safety first, we dont want any explosions.
* Unplug all wiring that is connected to the engine.
* Cut all the fuel lines and throw them out.
* Undo the fuel tank straps and all associated hoses - remove it.
* Remove the complete exhaust system.
* Remove the Engine stabiliser located on the chassis rail
* Unbolt the Cross member, front engine mount and the rear gearbox mount. Make sure that the engine is supported from underneath.
* Lower the engine/gearbox- best way if at home is to jack the car right up and let the engine/GB come down, then slide her out through the front
* place the original 1.5 engine wiring harness to one side, remembering where the wiring goes. Tag it with tape and write on it. Most of it will not be needed.
Wiring
Read over the 16v wiring diagrams you downloaded and make sure you have all the relative connectors and plugs/relays.
You will not need the Lambda Probe coding connector.
Run the wiring for the 16v connecting all the sensors to the engine minus the computer, dont forget the Lambda sensor and oxygen probe, there is a wiring diagram for this on the web .I will supply it on this site soon
You will have to drill a large 1.5inch hole on the top section of the firewall (if the battery was there then you would drill straight through it).
Drill a hole now just to the side of were the battery resides again 1.5inch - this will now enter into the passanger compartment.
Pass the connector through the holes, it will then be inside the car. It will sit just behind the glove box. This is where your computer will connect. Make sure enough slack is left in the harness to accommodate the battery, so the harness goes around the battery. The rear of the glove box will hold the computer hard up against the firewall.
* Check the compression on the 16v and turn it by hand to make sure all is well. Remove the air con compressor.
* Swap the gearbox over to the 1.5. or whichever you prefer. Use the 16v clutch and pressure plate.
* Slide the engine under the front and into the engine bay, lift her up and mount it using the rear GB mount and top engine mount.
* The new radiator will need to be placed in front of the engine bay, the previous spot is not large enough , You will need to cut into the front of the car, measure it up correctly. It will be like a housing for it, . A bit of thought is required here. I drilled a hole right throuh into the engine bay as a mount for the radiator, then bolted it to this. The rear of the front bumper has just enough clearance for it the radiatro, and it holds it hard up against the engine bay frame. It kind of looks like an intercooler after its done. Attach the thermo fan, although unless its 40c it wont turn on. This is why you need the 16v radiator, no more worries about overheating, great ! Obviously hook up the water lines and hoses. If you didnt get the 16v hoses your really pushing it, the hoses for the 16v are specially moulded to go around the cam wheels.
* Attach the 16v crossmember and bolt it up loosly
* Attach the sway bar- bitch of a job. You will have to loosly bolt it all up, then once it is together, begin to tighten all the bolts in the cross member and the swaybar
* Take off the front calipers and rotors, replace with the 16v items. There are only 4 bolts - not hard. Remember to bleed the system.
* The engine bolts for the front engine mount on the crossmember are much longer than the 1.5L.
Get the right ones off the 16v. If you cant then take the old ones to a bolt shop and find on that is the same , just longer.
They must be high tensile.
* Attach the 16v exhaust system
* Run new bundy tube/stainless/copper/steel fuel lines and connect EFi fuel filter , then connect to the fuel rail. Make sure the return lines are also replaced. Efi pressure is much higher than Carby fuel lines. Attach all the relevant fuel lines to the 16v tank and mount it into position.
* The only place I found for the EFi fuel pump was under the rear bumper. I made up a mount and it sits near the tank and LHS wheel arch, make sure you protect it from the elements. and fingers.
Drill a 3" Hole in the inner wing on the RHS, get some silicon hose/brakeducting used on touring cars, feed it fro the AFM to the air filter, this will provide a. Cool air fron the ront of the car & b. Protection from the hot engine bay. I used a very large conical Toyota landcruiser air filter, cost me $ 12 and is huge ! Filts snugly too, I also made a bracket to stop it from falling out the bottom.
The front grille will need to be modified to fit. I wont go on unless you make a new mounting system. I dint get time for this before I sold him. sorry...
Hook up the battery terminals, and all the connectors, dont forget the crank angle sensor plug, on the gearbox !
Connect the computer.
As long as you follow the wiring diagram, you will be fine.
Start er up !
