Willyabrup 

Is the largest and best known crag with superb, sun-drenched granite stretching for some 500 meters along the coast. The orange and grey banded buttresses are comfortably terraced above the waves and in calm conditions there is a pleasant ‘sea-side picnic’ atmosphere amidst the small beaches and rock pools. The climbing is quite varied with a lot of faces, roofs and cracks. Strong, natural lines are abundant and most of the routes are traditionally protected. There are also bolted sport routes in the higher grades, but even these may require the occasional wire or friend placement.

About 150 climbs range in grade from 5 to 26, most of which are in the mid-grades (17 to 21). One of the best sectors is the impressive Steel Wall area. You’ll find brilliant face routes like Stainless Steel (21), Heavy Metal (24) and Acid Didj (25), as well as classic roofs like the popular Mob Job (20), Rape and Pillage (23), or the Kim Carrigan test piece KGB (26). The northern end of the crag is home to the classic Banana Split (14), a curving banana shaped chimney that derives its status not only from its quality as a powerful line, but also from a historical perspective. It was one of the first routes at Willyabrup, climbed by Peter Waterfall and his brother John, a wild red-haired hippie who unexpectedly ‘discovered’ the cliff while looking for surfing breaks back in early 1973. The face to the left of Banana Split offers the brilliant Dessert (24) and a milder Corpus Delecti (18). Nearby are a couple of other routes of distinction: Well Stoned (23), Precious Metals (25) and the dangerous Finish Fatale (22). The southern end has also some top offerings: the exciting Totally Awesome (19), fun routes like the steep arête of Rockfish Dreaming (19) and the thin face of Fat Chance (20), or the ever popular cracked roof of One For The Road (19), beautiful Dolphin Smiles (21), or a scary contribution from Simon Yates - Percy Pigsville (19) with a committing and run-out crux. The list goes on; Inner Space (17), Waterfall’s Second Folly (15), Golden, Buttress (17), Hope (14), Sirius (14), Washed Up Punks (23), Delving Devoids (25), Blow Job (24), Welcome to Arapiles (21), Use No SLCD’s (20), Baited Frenzy (18) and Book of Funk (26) are all worthwhile.

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