The Beginning
On my maiden voyage there was a moderate surf the waves were about two to three feet. It probably wasn't the ideal conditions for my first try, but I wasn't going to stop now. I ventured forward and paddled my kayak head on into the first breakers. I went slowly, carefully keeping my bow straight into the waves and leaning back to keep it above the top of the white water. The waves started breaking over me; I got turned sideways and a breaking wave caught me broadside. My kayak and I went tumbling over in the surf and got separated. I did hang on to the paddle though, and I went after the kayak which was rushing to the beach.
Undaunted, I set out again only to get wiped out a second time, but almost making it past the last breaking wave. This time I managed to hang on to the kayak as well as the paddle, and rode it in to the beach. On the third attempt I got a little smarter. I paddled out to just before the last breaking waves and waited for the lull between the sets of waves. I picked one out and then paddled like hell and moved as fast as I could. I just made it and rode over the next wave just before it broke. I think the kayak was up at about a 60 degree angle.
I cruised around for several minutes outside of the breaking waves, catching a rest before trying to ride a wave in. That proved to be another big wipeout, as a breaking wave got me on an angle and tumbling over I went, separated from my kayak again. I hope you don't think that I was getting frustrated; I was having the time of my life. I knew that on this day I was hooked on kayaking in the surf.
Since then, I have been out in a similar surf a few times and I'm doing a lot better, although I still get wiped out occasionally. On the calmer days, I just cruise up and down the shore getting some exercise and catching some sunshine. It's all very enjoyable
