This site was last updated
on: Thursday September 30, 2001 11:04 AM EST
Site made and maintained by:
Andrew Rice
Send corrections and suggestions
to: [email protected]
Many thanks to [TFR]Gumby for helping with the site.
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3" Performance
Excessories Body Lift |
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Tools
Hacksaw,
jack(Hi-Lift works great), standard screw driver, flexible socket,
adjustable joint pliers, 7/8" and 1 3/4" sockets, Open end wrenches
(1/4", 1 5/8"), and ratchet with socket extensions. NOTE: welding
is required.
Please
read all of instructions before you start!
Instructions
- Loosen all bolts at body mounts.
- Drill the 2 nylon pins on the middle of the steering shaft.
Use some heavy duty lubricant on these places and soak extremely
well. NOTE: if it still doesnt drop when you put the lift in,
then get some vice grips and attach it to the lower part of
the shaft and pound on the vice grips and keep soaking with
the lubricant.
- Disconnect the clutch pivot bracket, this is the bracket that
is attached to the firewall below the hole that the linkage
from the pedal to the clutch linkage goes. NOTE: this is for
manual, I dont know what is involved in an automatic.
- Take out the radiator and the fan shroud, you will have to
lower the radiator by the amount of inches you are lifting your
jeep. You do this by moving the holes up the amount you are
lifting your jeep. NOTE: if you are raising your jeep 3 inches
you may want to lower the radiator 1 or 2 inches, lower the
fan shroud another 1 or 2 inches. Do what you think fits right.
You need the fan in front of the radiator as much as possible
though to have max amount of air being pulled through the radiator.
Also, if you HAVE to, you can cut out the bottom of the fan
shroud to get the fan to fit, MAKE SURE that the lower radiator
tube will not get cut by the fan though. NOTE: IF YOU HAVE PETS
AROUND, be very careful because the antifreeze in the radiator
is extremely toxic and tastes like candy to them, so put the
pets up and clean up very well.
- Jack the left side of the jeep up about an inch or 2 higher
than the heighth of the lift pucks. Look under the body very
carefully and check to see if there is any wires or anything
strectched. NOTE: I did not look at the exhaust mounting bracket
and it broke the rubber in 2.
- If everything checks out alright, put in the pucks on the
left side. The skinny pucks go: one in the front, and 4 in the
rear, the large ones go in the middle of the jeep. I had a total
of 11 body mounts.
- Then jack up the right side and check all wires. If everything
checks out alright, put in the pucks and lower the body. NOTE:
Do not tighten body mount bolts yet, do this at the very end.
- Put the radiator and fan shroud back in and make sure everything
lines up right.
- Take the clutch linkage, the part that goes from the clutch
pedal, through the firewall. And cut it in 2 on the longest
straight part on it(this should be towards the top of it). Now
weld the 3" inch metal rod onto the top part of the linkage,
and then the bottom. NOTE: if you don't know how to weld, you
may be able to buy an extended linkage from a store, if not,
get a pro to weld it for you.
- Combine the new clutch pivot bracket and the old one by placing
the new one on the 2 bolts on the body(top hole on top bolt
and middle hole on bottom bolt). Then place the stock bracket
on the new bracket(top hole on bottom bolt). Take the bolt and
nut that came in the kit and bolt the bottom of the old and
new bracket together. NOTE: leave all these nuts loose, you
will need to adjust this when you put in the linkage to get
everythign right.
- Take the new, longer clutch linkage and put it back in and
see if it fits right. Don't worry if it doesn't. You may need
to lower the hole through the firewall a little.
- Tighten everything down on the jeep that you have messed with
and make sure you get the clutch linkage back together correctly.
Double check all the lines and wires and make sure that noting
is strectched.
- Check your shifter and your transfercase shifter and see if
it hits the hole through the tub anywhere and if it does, make
the hole a little bigger, you want at least an inch on each
side.
That should be it, if you have any questions or need any help,
feel free to e-mail me.
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Cheap Sway Bar
Disconnects |
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These sway bars cost me a total of 12 dollars. Not including
the drill bits. I do not remmeber the exact size drill bits or
pins i used but they are common sense things(meaning, dont use
a small pin so it breaks and dont use to large of one that weakens
what you drilled the holes in.
Parts
Tubing
that fits snug over the sway bar links, 4 hitch pins or cotter
pins, whatever you prefer, spare oil, high quality drill bit.
ToolsInstruction
Hack
saw, drill (drill press works best).
Instruction
- You need to take off the sway bar links (the part of the sway
bar on both sides that is vertical). You do this by undoing
the 2 bolts on each side and then prying very hard with a big
ass pole (i used a bench press bar).
- Cut the pieces in 2. NOTE: I did not cut them equally in 2,
i made that part that goes on the bottom a little bit smaller
than the one on top so that when i undo the sway bar, the part
on the bottom hangs as little as possible.
- Drill a hole in each piece that will go perpindicular to the
jeep(parrallel to the axle).
- Cut the tubing the length of the part of the link that is
skinny(do not include the round parts that the bolts go through).
- Drill holes through the tubing that line up with the holes
in the links.
- Put it all back together and use the pins to hold the links
together.
- After it is connected, drive around going over things do see
if it works and it doesnt break.
That should be it, if you have any questions or need any help,
feel free to e-mail me.
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All the latest Off-Road info and much more.
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Hosted by Off-Road.com. Everything Jeep.
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Short wheel base BBS. Talk to real jeepers!
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Site for the members of the BBS.
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