If there is such a thing as a Parisian Via Dolorosa then it can only be the short lifetime that was
the procession of the tumbril from prison to scaffold during the worst days of the French Revolution. Most of the victims were aristocrats but as time went on there were many old scores settled by denouncements and as the different factions struggled for supremacy there were some surprising and surprised personnages who were also caught up the maelstrom. Camille Desmoulins who once exhorted the mob from an alcove in the Palais Royale, a few years later went to the scaffold, horrified at the excesses taking place; his wife Lucile followed him just a short time later; Madame Roland, ambitious and snobbish, embraced the very ideals she denounced, while Danton was proscribed by Robespierre who himself was guillotined even as he lay stricken by a bullet wound. There were many prisons for "enemies of the state" in those days but for most their final journey began at the Conciergerie. |
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The Conciergerie was a 12th Century fortress on the Ile de la
Cite. The distinct towers are called bonbec towers. The Horloge can just be seen on the corner. The Conciergerie is a unique example of medieval, gothic architecture but the prisoners had but one desire during the Terror and that was to leave it. Most prisoners were thrown together in huge dungeons but some such as Marie Antoinette had their own cells. The Cour des Femmes was immediately outside the cell of Marie Antoinette and is virtually unchanged from the days when Madame du Barry, Charlotte Corday, Madame Roland and a company of aristocratic ladies bathed at the fountain in the centre. The Conciergerie is adjacent to the Palais de Justice and one by one through a maze of corridors the prisoners were brought before the Revolutionary Tribunal--very few were reprieved from the courtroom nicknamed La Salle des Pas Perdus. |
No matter what Marie Antoinette may have or may
have been accused of in the past, she brought tears to the eyes of all in that courtroom in October 1793 and even the most ardent of Republican must have realized that the calumnies and slanders laid down by Hebert the Prosecutor were so outlandish and defamatory that they could not possibly be true - the worst being the accusation of incest with her own children. Over the years, Marie Antoinette was subjected to the vilest propaganda in the form of leaflets and word of mouth. Anything she said or did was twisted and used against her and she was demonised to serve the ends of the Revolution. Even in these enlightened times her name is synonymous with licence and excess but the truth is that she was a loving mother and wife. She called upon the mothers in the gallery that day " Ce crime est-il possible?"and if you sit in the same auditorium today her shade still lingers. |
The trials were for the most part finished within minutes---there were very few who escaped the
death penalty by Fouqier-Tinville, The Public Prosecutor; pregnant women were reprieved until the birth of their baby but appeals of any other nature fell upon deaf ears. Down the steps of the Palais de Justice the tumbrils waited and a daily procession went across the Pont au Change. |
After crossing the bridge, on the right was the Place Chatelet.
The statue in the foreground was erected to commemorate Napoleon's Egyptian adventures and was therefore not in place at that time. but the ancient Tour St Jacques { in background, to the left } would have been visible.
The Tower itself had not been untouched by the Revolution,
being all that remained after the adjoining church had been destroyed. The statue of St. Jacques which had stood atop the Tower had been pulled down.
The Grands Boulevards did not exist at that time but the Rue
St. Honore, apart from the traffic, is virtually unchanged. The tumbrils would have then turned left and entered onto this main road. |
Once on the Rue St. Honore the prisoners were on the high road to their deaths. All about them
were reminders of the Revolution - there were in fact very few places in Paris which escaped the attentions of the sans-culottes. The entrance to the Palais Royale came up on the right --this was a hot-bed of Revolutionary fervour and a gathering place for all manner of dissidents. From here Camille Desmoulins harangued the crowd which brought down the Bastille, Charlotte Corday bought the knife with which she killed Marat and Napoleon lost his virginity to a prostitute.
A little further and the Place Vendome could just be glimpsed in passing. This again had not been
left alone - the central column { which has been re-erected } was being reduced stone by stone. The statue of Louis the Fourteenth, which had stood on the column since 1699, was pulled down, broken into small pieces and melted down. The left foot survived and is in the Louvre. |
The tumbrils are nearing the end of
the Rue St. Honore and this contemporary print shows the entrance to the Jacobin Club at bottom right. Further right at the very bottom of the picture the tumbril can be seen, escorted by soldiers of the National Guard. The buildings have not changed at all and the inhabitants became used to looking down upon the sad procession which went by daily. One of the most interested was Maximilien Robespierre who lived at No. 400 Rue St Honore |
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Just a few hundred yards further on and Church of St.
Roch appears. This is the place where Napoleon Bonaparte first came to the attention of the Republicans quelling a Parisian mob which threatened the Convention in 1795. While the crowd threatened from one end of the street Bonaparte brought up his artillery from the other end and gave them his infamous " whiff of grapeshot". The result was an overwhelming victory for the Republicans and the beginning of Bonaparte's career. The officer who fetched the artillery pieces was a youthful Joachim Murat. |
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The facade of St. Roch as it is
today. The damage caused by the cannon and guns can still be seen. |
Robespierre was at one time omnipotent during the
Revolution. An idealist ex-lawyer, Robespierre fully accepted the bloodshed needed to accomplish his Revolutionary ideals. He rented an apartment over a courtyard { see right} at the house of the Duplay family where he became engaged to Eleonore Duplay and a well-liked member of the family. |
Nevertheless, his role as beloved family man did not prevent him from
attempting to achieve his aims for a Utopian state of his own imagination and night after night L'Incorruptible sat with his acolyte Louis de St Just, The Angel of Death, drawing up the lists of the accused for the next day. |
The Duplay house is now a restaurant which is reached by walking through the old courtyard. You
can sit in the alcove where Robespierre and St. Just sat and draw up your own list if you like --
" any more messing fro that milkman - and my boss has been pushing it a bit lately-----" If you are
really good and the manager is in a good mood she will ask the present incumbent if you can see Robespierre's apartment. |
The Rue St. Honore has now come to the junction
where it turns into the Rue Royale. The church of the Madeleine receded into the background as the tumbrils neared the vast auditorium of the then Place de La Revolution. The Madeleine had been inaugarated in the 1760's but work had stopped during the Revolution and it would be circa 1840 until the edifice was completed. Legend has it that there are still marks where the German long range guns struck the side during the First World War. The Duc de Richelieu lived in the house that would become Maxims during the Belle Epoque and Madame de Stael who lived over the road wrote it all down in her diary. The mansions at the very end of the Rue Royale are now the Ministry for the Marine and the Hotel Crillon. |
And it was in this manner that the great and the good and the downright unlucky met their maker at
the hands of Sanson the executioner. Some cried for mercy, some made speeches and some fainted away. Marie Antoinette inadvertently stepped on the headsman's foot and her final words were " Pardonnez-Moi Monsieur, I did not do it on purpose" and she passed into history showing more humanity and sensitivity in one sentence than her persecutors did in their lifetimes. |
Place de La Revolution with the Rue
Royale to the rear and the entrance to the Tuileries gardens on the left hand side.
The vast square was always full of
sightseers, sans-culottes and the ubiquitous tricoteuses. |