The book of the days of the jouney throug Malawi
in
Memory of 15 of us, killed by fire in Childers/Australia
from
the authors Daniel Tschentscher (D) and Rene´ Schmidt (R)
july
15 (R)
The day was just some minutes, we peparted from Frankfort by Ethiopian Airlines. In Addis Abeba it was real cool, tha hairs sit perfect "three weather shampoo". As the only started in Frankfurt we decided to fly continue to Lilongwe. tthe service of Ethiopian Airlines was good, stewardesses nice, food and beverage abundant, (better than otherwise) But after arriving the hitch, Daniels backpack had not arrived in Lilongwe. Formalities at the lost and found desk to reach that the backpack should send to Mzuzu.
The start of our Malawi journey was original and orginal with the liter transport from the airport to the main road M1. Then by lift and bus to Kasungu where we checked in the Mulungo Apatsa Motel. The Atmosphere at the greet beverage was not so good, because the infringement of the luggage decisions.
july 16 (D) Kasungu - Mzimba - Mzuzu - Nkathabay
The first views of the still sticked eyes get pointed to the undefined at the wall tossed shit similar heaps - it sticked still. Rene´ checked the shower yesterday. I prefered, after watching ste sticking heaps at the wall, to shower in the morning. It was a mistake, you have to shower if there is water and not if you are happy for it or if you are dirty. With sorry no water I had to realize we are in Africa. So we went to the station of the traffic companies of Kasungu.
A minibus get filled with more or lesser voluntary to start
the journey to Mzuzu. It takes 45 minutes, for european conditions it was
overcrowed. The journey starts through a backround of african movies. The bus
get filled more and more from stop to stop. The record in the minibus was at 18
adult, 2 little blacks and 2 whithe people, we were the only wasungus . Nearly
we had runed over some impalas, because the drive was fast. At noon we arrived
Mzuzu.After lunch and a bath in the plastic bowls handed after lunch, we went to
the airport. Passing a large construction side, the trading mall Mzuzu we
reached the largest airport in the surroundings. First information we get from
the airfield marking painter. We had to obsserve, thats impossible to call in
this country, only you can get called, if you have a number. With a highly
overgrowed (also for this country)* minibus (20-25 persons, but the correct
number of passangers was not to determie), we arrived in Nkathabay. It was
sunday 4 pm, the second leagua of the malawian footbol association had hold the
top match Nkata Bay vs Mzuzu. Ten thousend or some less were in sta
stadium. But we had no time, a walk to Njaya was waiting for us. Rene´ had not
promised to much about this place, after a terrific bath in the lake the feeling
was simply superior.
* remark: the author knows the country not for long
july
17 (R) Njaya / Nkhata Bay
Without to hold a morning roll call we started the day with a march in the town. Finally we had the problem with the hitch from the airport. Breakfast there was in a restaurant, I thinked to know. typical african and the owner black. Sure, in this restaurant I had breakfast 3 years ago. At post office it was not possible to call. After som tries the stuff of the telecommunication office was able to get a connection to the Lilongwe airport.My partner in a discussion let me know, that the problem is recognized and there may be a solution at 2 pm. At the following visiting of some picked out Houte Couetur stores Daniel get suitable design trousers and a oral cleaner special formed for his mouth. Back to Nyaja a propecy seems to come true, sometimes a beautiful is coming and it rains. But it hasn´t rain. After a bath in Lake Malawi, the handle some formalities at the reception and the emting of a green I liked to make a noon sleep. But because I am ever endeavour for the welfare of the traveller entrusted to me ( is debating about the difference betwenn femal friend and girlfriend) I could not make a noon sleep. Instead of I had to make contracts for clean washing, for dinner and for nice dinner fellows. But I still try to sleep a hour, in accordance with the motto, if the compentiors dont sleep, then I should do it. Untill today evening my lovely diary.
Now my lovely diary, when Patricia it had not mastered to get my friend, you are remaining for luck. Ethiopian Airlines had recognized there is a backpack remaining in Addis Abeba. But the next plane direct from Addis arrives in Lilonwe at thursday. Also Patricia couldn´t give a information when there is a plane from Lilongwe to Mzuzu at friday, so she had to inform herself to costs of my calling account. In the multi functional arena of Mzuzu seems to be a event every time. Here the visions of a Uli Honeß are reality already, sunday top footbol, monday another event, in this case a declaraion of the opposition leader of Malawi.
comment of a local
Fortunely
I have get the chance to write down anything at this paper for my friends Otto
and Daniel. I dont write write many things. It is just one of this recoments
about people I met from germany. I met few of them including this two friends.
Most of german people are nice and friendly. We the staff of Njaya love meeting
good people to have fun. Myself I am Casses Precious, working for this place
Njaya sure looking forward to meet more germans.
Thanks Precious for your comment.
To demonstrate understanding between peoples together with the superiority of german innovation technic I uncorked with my shoe a bottle of red wine for 4 south africans, whos were here by bike. Unfortunally there no german coffee, but there was Green for luck. Leider gab es keinen german coffee, aber green war zum Glück vorhanden.
july 18 (D) Nkhata Bay - Mzuzu - Rumphi - Vwaza Marsh Game reserve
When the sun rised at the horizon Rene´ as a supposed
expert of Malawi had to see, that there is land to watch at the opposite side of
the lake. When I had a morning bath in the sunrise, Rene´ was dedicating such
earthly things like shiting and similar. After awaked also the boss of the
house we went to the town to look for a lift to Mzuzu. After a typical brakfast
with rolls and 3° cold coke the bus pepards at 8. We had to make hurry because
we had term freight on board. Rene´ was sitting entire at the back on a large
box with fresh fish, which had to be at the market in Mzuzu on time. So we have
done it despite the hopeless overgrowing of the minibus (22 adults + 2 children
+ the box with the fish) * look for the footnote to
make the distance from Nkatha Bay to Mzuzu in record time. Yesterday Patricia
promised that my packpack would arrive in Mzuzu at friday. Because it is the
best if as much as possible people know about the solving problem, we made this
knowledge known also the stuff of the Mzuzu airport. Back to the bus station we
reached the bus to Rumphi just in time. So we could reach Rumphi 2,5 hours
earlier. and so it happens and we had the time for a well kunch in the
first house at the place. There was nsima with peri peri pork. After shopping in
some stores of the town we get a lift on a semi truck. I made comfort together
with a black woman in th back of the cabin, if the driver moved the shift gear
stick between Rene´s legs. The drive went through Africa like known me
from the best Africa movies. Sacked by the potholes of the road and the price we
must pay for the distance (double of the price of the other km fees) we arrived
the Vwaza marsh gamepark at half past 2 pm. 
.
I can see still now the disappointment in Rene´s eyes - his shower and his
toilet get pulled down and substituded by a massiv sanitary building eith
sitting toilet. Whats happens, he had survived his disappointing quick. Quickly
supplied a guide with riffle and go to the hunt for hippos, elefants, impalas
and other animals, only known us from the TV. Today evening we cooke
ourself. There was white bread, you could eat so much you can without to get
filling and canes of thuna. to finish the day we treated some german
coffee and a cigarr.
* How long still this human (the writer) must travel through Africa to remove from his first wold arrogant pseudo rational kind of thinking. In this latitude the world formula gets defined in other way.
capatisity of vehicle = k*hakuna matata
k is a constant size and is in accordance to maybe
If addaption this equation its possible to get the scheduled departure and arriving times without problems. Departure is if the bus depart an arriving is if the bus arrives.
july
19 (R)
Vwaza Marsh - Livingstonia
As our guide Louis picked up us at 6 am, I was awaked since a hour, because I detected that I was clothed to slightly for the nights cold. towards the rising sun, the first rays of sunshine did well for the numb limbs. You could feel how it get warm quickly. After breakfast and paying we went to the road. We get a lift quickly. When Daniel made himself comfort at the first class sector of the cargo surface I stood in front, hold on me with one hand, the other fixing my backpack at the drivers cabin. At this way I hadn´t a hand free to wave. From a approaching car we buyed a reserve wheel . This we needed a short time later, because a tube get bursted. To satisfy the cameras greed for spectacular motivs, I grabbed for wheel changing. Arrived in Rumphi we tried to organize a transport to Livingstonia and lunched in our favourite restaurant of Rumphi. Soon we get informed about a option to go to ride with. The ride starts with a emtied ambulance car. First along the M1 in direction north. Short after the house of Mister Ngoma (yes really this attraction of the for the death waiting man is still alive) we branched of left to the old Livingstonia road. The ride through this mountainouis scenery of the Nyika mountains is breathtaking. Breathtaking there was also the defect or stearing gear we had on the way and takes a hour to repair. Nevertheless it was a beautiful journey and we reached Livingstonia well being. The wide spaced colonial identified town is still like it had in my rememberance. The same I could say about the Resthouse where I sit now and write. It is simple but relaxed. A town walking, which highlight was the visit of the museum, where same exponats of the first misionaries were layed out, finished a day full of incidents.
P.S. As the journey from Vwaza marsh to Rumphi was uncomfortable, so I had a magnificant view, a lot of wind around my nose and the recognition that the Africa virus, be sucked in me cince everytime was still in me. Because the loading area hosted 2 wasungu, 17 local adults, 5 half locals and 1 local chicken, I get a little envious. Yesterday I had seen a wasungu with bicycle, he had his vehicle just for himself only. I admitted the bicyclist to stand in the tops of the classification of travellers.
july 20 (D) Livingstonia
Today´s breakfast we get three pancakes served at
the sun terrace of the Resthouse. This was really delicious and suitable exellent
to the tea. After them we went to discover the surroundings. Our way
runned us to the Manchewe Falls 
,
this is like the waterfalls near to Livingstonia. First the visiting of the fall
on the top was at our programm. After some spectacular pictures, maked
clear the bolding of the wasungu at the edge in the deep, we enjoyed the view
from the little excursions restaurant named Lovers Nest. The probably constanly
increasing encouragement for the restaurant, now bringed the host a presentable
new building froms stones with bottlestore. But in time the building is empty.
probably for the nuisance of japanese tourist whos had cincerly purchased a lot
of souveniers here. At the search for the bottom of the water falls we passed
undiscovered hiking trails, which didn´t were in accordance with europian
standards of trail signing and demarcation. As we haven´t found the bottom of
the falls, we enjoyed the hike arround the falls really terrific. Now we have
merited a coke. But we had to buy on credit because wed had not small
coins. But this was not a problem, because we ordered lunch in the nearby
restaurant and so there was the hope to get change money. Rene´ refused
to spend his shirt and trousers to kindly asking children. It´s really sorrow,
if the friendliness and warmhearthing of the little Malawians don´t get
reciprocated. When the children sorrow and without trousers and hungry went home,
rejected by Rene´ and discharged with the sarcastic remark "good
work"Als die Kinder
dann weinend und traurig ohne Schuhe hungrig, abgewiesen und von Rene´ mit der
sarkastischen Bemerkung „good work“, he dedicated his gambling plesures and
even thriumphed about me in gambling the self invented "Hombre" game,
which rules are completely irreal and thinke through. It was complete
intelligible if than Rene´ looked for the way to the church. But
the church was closed because day of rest. Just in time for shower if
daylight we were back at the Resthouse. The current was not back now.
Vincent had absolute news about Rene´s friends in Chitimba 
,
but about this he we will tell detailed tommorow.
july 21 (R) Livingstonia - Chitimba
The children, which went sorrow and ungifted back home yesterday, were happy, in spite of the opposite fears by Daniel. Vincent hasn´t get ride off to be our guide. Also our credible description that we have served in the armee and get trained in the spirit of Congo Müller, has not prevented him to make himself indispensable to protect us against robbers. Also our fightings in Russia didn´t impress him. So we moved direction Chitimba, protecting mutual against gangs of robbers. On the way we visited the Lukwe Permaculture Campground, a place only there is since two years. There is possible to rent a tent, meals get offered also beer and coke sure. This running bussiness maybe the cause, that the nearly Lovers Nest have to make a bussiness change. There we met again the female Kiwis, yesterday I chatted clevershiting. Daniel forgot to write down this, also my snooty looking down greet on two jeep safari members. Shortly after leaving the campground we reached Bend 1, the first of 20 bends on the way to Chitimba. Yesterday Vinston told me, that Thomas my old friend of former Africa days is arrested - what for news. Because Vincent let us climb over a lot of short cuts we arrived Chitimba in 3,5 hours. From the Florence Bay Resthouse I heard the words Hello Rene´. There was Mike highly amused to meet me again. He has known my name (even the correct and not Otto) Soon he also confirmed the arresting of Thomas and the provoked consternation with that in the village. O.B. is not still living in the Florence Bay, but has buyed a house some km away. After a trip to the beach we went to the Chitimba beach campsite. Gisa born in Germany and former overlandtruck driverin was new in the management and thanks her power and connections the enterprise get better. Chalets were built, overlandtrucks made stop regularly and also for backpacker it increase in acceptance. Probably for the harm of Mike too. The „runned by an Ashole“ comment of the WOM Africa guideboook is no more effective. The day ends in the Florence Bay Resthouse supporting the initiative „Lets make Malawi alittle more green with green“.
comment
of a local
Ist really nice to see Rene´ with cousin for third time in Africa, specific in
Malawi the warm heart of Africa, the origin of humanity. The cousin of Rene´
Dan is here for first time. The guys are just excellent. Daniel has lost his
Backpack in Addis Abeba. He is gonna to get it from Mzuzu Airport. I feel so
nice that some people know that Mike is living around. Its good that we are
meeting each other and hope to be back sometime later.
With
best wishes Mike.
july 22(D) Chitimba
Mike has survived the night too, what was not so clear yesterday, because his peculiar cigarettes. So the kittchen could set on fire again today. This smoking building a little remote of the house was worth a picture. Because today is sunday the preparation for the taking of the lariam tablets keeped going. Exactly one hour bevore the really term it take place, without aid and anaesthetizing we swallowed our tablets to protect against the illness. Today the discovering of the southern suborb and a official visiting of the post office were parts of the programm. The post officer we had to bribe with 1,50 Kwacha for not adhesiving our postcards fully with stamps. I hope this additional expends get recognized in Rene´s calculation. In the wasting time our resthouse get a asyl for ailings. Mike persuaded a american girl, whos feeling bad, to have malariar. So he went together with her to the witchcraft doctor. We were waiting for the two fellow american girls, escorted by rastaman John. When all of them were at the witchcraft doctor , we went with our bowl full of dirty laundry to the beach for washing. Still now I can smell the aroma of fresh cleaned laundry and "Rei in der Tube" quick detergent. A breeze of spring air blow over the beach and the dusty street. It was time for lunch, Mike was well stoned, probably Rastaman has let some to smoke again. Nevertheless he made a good meal. later we send him to sleep. Now the bussiness was runned by James, but we were here too. Todays footbol match get postponed, so we went directly to the campground, because after a cup of coffee I liked to use the toilets there. A load from a overland truck built up their tents. Most of them seems to be fat southafricans, that they were fat you could see and that the supplied meals were not enough for them you could recognize, because they nealy were eating the kittlchen empty. After this we went to the beach. When I get the Africa Bac shower gel to get my hairs in top condition, Rene´ keeped one of the local tree trunk boats from the beach. But he went not far. Already at the first wave he get to the spitting of the locals and thrown over board and rinsed to the shore. In this time three local policeman get trunken in the near by our resthouse being "Lusekero". Highlight of their commedy programm was a traffic controll of a tanzanian truck by this policeman. We had the suspect that probably a little defect at the truck leads to a punishment of 75 kwacha, the price they have to pay for 3 new bottles of beer. For dinner we have ordere "dinner" today, let´s see what it is. Otherwise we liked to do something for the enviroment and to drink some green from deposit bottles.
Chombe = name of the table mountain near Chitimba
Chitimba= Cape Town of Malawis
(R)
At the evening we remembering a story about a wasungu from Germany, leaved by his girlfriend in Africa. His name was Manfred, Karl, Gottfried or like so, typicall german in every cause. In fact of this incident a dog get named like him. Brings all to a laughter every time, but i hope neverwhere in Africa a dog get named like me.
july 23 R Chitimba - Kasungu
Today it means to say goodby to Chitimba. For me for the third time. The village is still so beautiful, like i knowed, with the lake, the beach, the magnificent view to the mountains with mount chombe. The campground get quit popular thanks Gisa. Negativ comparable to 1997 was unfortunally the Florence Bay Resthouse. Nobody was waiting at the bus stop to welcom backpacker, the former activity get lost and the new construction, beginned with enthusiast in 97, is only growned by a pair of bricks and stands as a investment ruin. O B moved with three of his former four wives to a house 10 km away, sorrely I haven´t meet him. Thomas sits in the jailhouse, Wisdom is passed away this year. Maybe he had smoked to much or the cannabis spirit destiled himself not only knocked out wasungus. Mike is sliped too. At the way to the bus stop he joined us waving, he get stoned again, for long time its not so good for the brain. I said goodby with the words, that he should stop to smoke or he will follow Wisdom, I dont get happy about. I hope he will do it.
We taked the first minibus to Mzuzu. The first must not be the best , but it is not excluded. By murky right cold weather we arrived Mzuzu after a fast ride. We dropped off at the airport. Happy to saved time we crossed the airfield to the opposite terminal, but so we get a reprimand by a security stuff, because to cross the airfield is forbidden at all airports. The happyness ends if the airport boss dont handle us the expected backpack and not could give a inform about its current place of residence. Telefon still didn´t work, but a telex get sent to Lilongwe, for the answer we were waiting now. And so my diary we are waiting with you and Carlsberg green, which is amazing cheap here for a airport restaurant (25 Kwacha = 0,50€)
Because the telexes get no answer and the 3 pm plane from Lilongwe hadn/t had unaccompanied baggage on board, we dicided to went to Kasungu and tommorow to look for the Lilongwe airport. Because we departed late the main time we drived in the darkness. In Kasungu we checked in the Mulungo Apatsa Motel, where the stuff get hostibilit for us. Because there was no beer in the house a friendly stuff member joined us to a dicothek, where we buyed two bottles. But he seems to feel not good in the atmosphere and so together with him we went home, passing traces of a ending Chibuku party.
july 24 (D) Kasungu - Blantyre
I dont know how to start writing. The day today would be probably not so worth to mention, but exclude two highlights. First I have back my backpack and second we are arrived in Blantyre at Doogles. But let me start with the morning. After spending a night in the probably best room of the resthouse we stand up. Today there was water, later we went to the bus station. A good breakfast from a street vendor, for 5 kwacha each and the journey could start. No special happens. The bus rushed with alarming speed in direction Lilongwe, dropp off at the junction to the airport. After walking some 100 meters we get picked up by someone. Arrived at the airport we looked for Patricia. But Rene´ has no luck, to meet his telephone friend. Maybe she leave her office rarely, it´s confirms her question when depards a flight from Lilongwe to Mzuzu. But after short looking in the lost luggage room we found my backpack. Happy and with new courage we went in direction Blantyre. Even we forgot to use the toilets of the airport and to change kwachas. So we went back, then we went with a nearly empty minibus to Lilongwe. In Lilongwe we failured to the advertising slogan " departure in 5 minutes, the ride to Blantyre takes 3,5 hours". Ok the bus departed if it departed and arrived in Blantyre when it arrived. The ride to Blantyre gives not much special. At every stop we get food und we had to tolerate a searching of our bodys, because probably a Mosambiqueian walked away free or packed in a backpack. We arrived in the darkness, so I have lost the bet and must pay all of our 100 beers today. We checked in at Doogles, a real fucking backpackers and I showered warm here. Now we are drinking beer. wait for the dinner and are still enjoyed at Africa.
july 25 (R) Blantyre - Likhubula
Because probalbly Daniel get lost his skills to pack a bexkpack we set off quit late to uor today´s destination. Unfortunataly that we couldn´t stay only one night at Doogles, the most unmalawian part of Malawi and one of the best backpackers ever. First we take a minibus to the neighboring Limbe, where the busses depart to the south. Daniel did stress unsupple when handling his backpack to get support by the young female conductor, which she mades with elegance and a smile. From Limbe we went by minibus about a fucking good tared road with high speed to Mulanje. After a breakfast in a relaxed wooden restaurant I get back my oriantation. We walked back to the ordinary town, the bus station forms together with the bank and a little market a separated little suburb. In Mulanje we get company by Aufen and Stuart soon. Stuarts head was topped by a Chishango hut. Such a hut I added to my which list of souveniers, where such terrific things like a Bao game, Surf washing soap, music tapes or Piri piri sauce were listed. After short negotiations it get certain Aufen will be our guide for the next days. At the cargo surface we went to Likhubula and from there walking to the CCAP mission. A lodging at the CCAP hut was cheaper (new record for cheapest lodging) then to lodge in Likhubula and so we decided to spent two nights at the top and one night below. Checked in some children comes one after another, to get a contract. James was the first and so he may wash our clothings. In Mulanje we had buyed som canned food and pineapples, because we were selfcaterer now. The remainder like Bread, eggs and margarine we purchased at the lokal market. Even it was more expensive than in the valley, we enjoyed to support the local bussiness. For my surprising the only one restaurant in the village offers meals, so we could make a late lunch. Another highlight of the day was the visiting of the pools, where you can wonderful visit the surrounding mountain scenery. Compared to Lake Malawi the water in the pool was ice cold and so we had to limit the bath time. But is it a good felling, if the sun is warming if staying in the dry. Now only relaxing, eating dinner and sleeping was at the programme. Tommorow there are some hours climbing up waiting for us.
july 26 (D) Likhubula - Mulanje Mountains
To make a morning bath in the pool was a joke of yesterday.
The cool of the morning was not cheering to jump in the water. Half past 7 we
had a meeting with our guide. But why should by something just in time in
Africa. After short admonition - we liked to be a little educational - we
walked up the hill. Because the better training time from yesterday
(arriving in Likhubula) we startet with a short advantage of the two Dutchs. The
trail was heavy and steep 
,
you wish every rounded hilltop will be the last. But all the strains get
rewarded rich. The magnificant scenery of the Mulanje mountains
compensated for pain and strains. Yesterday a dutch party seems to be at the hut. 13
Dutchs comes down the way in smaller and larger groups. 6,5 hours they neede to
climb up. After 4 hours we arrived at the CCAP hut. Really exhausted we had
our lunch. There was rolls with tuna and for dessert the host of the hut peeled
our pineapple with his machete. Satisfied and strengthened we falled
asleep. We awaked from the arrive of the Dutch, 2 hours later then we. We
didn´t like to pretend weakness, because we ewre the champions of the up hill
climbing. We had to recognize, that Dutchs are slower than us, like the 13 did
yeserday this both confirmed today. At afternoon we walked to discover the inner
of a cloude. With all tricks we learned at the armee we marked the way,
because we let the guide back at home. So we were happy to come back to the
warming fire of our hut. There was dinner, rolls and beef and all together we
wathed in the pipe.
P.S. The both dutchs are Isolde und Peter and spend holiday for a year from dutch. .
july 27 (R) CCAP hut
Did Lance Armstrong defend his yelloy jersey till Parisß Takes there another spectacular transfer in the german footbol leage like the change by Möller to Schalke 04? What makes the Dow Jones? Questions over questions, all engaging us because we are sitting inactive in front of the fireplace. In the night it had rained often. The clouds are still hanging a our atitude. We are waiting for better weather to get activ. Also we hope for a better weather for the down hill climbing tommorow. The Dutchs living together with us in the hut have decided to stay here for another day and not to walk to the Chombe hut like planed. When the weather hasn´t decided how to get, we decided to vicit the neighboring hut. Remembering the father of modern limit expieriences collecting Rüdiger Niehberg, we moved through the irresolute weather. But the sun hinders us to collect limit expieriences, if penetrating the clouds. After 1 hour and 10 minutes walking we arrived at Lichenya hut, which seems to vistited wel. The hut get new build after a burning three years ago. For sleeping there were modern tents. Beside the hut we found a Bao board, gives me the option to gamble the most african of al games sice a long time. My opponent was Aufen, who was ambitious to teach the wasungu a desasterious defeat. But I was able to prevent his Blitzkrieg strategy, so the fight at the board takes a longe time. The game gambled by us with a lot of shrewd attend a large fan ground. Finishing I had to recognize my defeat for want of experience. Aufen falls down a heavy burden of a possible defeat. from his shoulders. Just in time for lunch we arrived our hut again. After the lunch the clouds wandered over the plateau again, so we escaped in the warm hut. Some cards gambling, which should push away the boredom, strengtens the tristess of being inactiv. At 4 pm it looks better, so we went for the afternoon walk. After a hour hiking we reached the viewpoint, which situated at the edge of the plateau. There was also the start of a waterfall. The view at the plain down under was magnificant and so today was not a wasting day. As a impressive natural phenomenon we watched the cloudes falling about the edge of the plateau. This clouds we looked after faszinated come from a clouds carpet which had creeped up and lays over the plateau. Now the way home brought the collaction of limit expieriences missed in the morning and also brought the feeling to be good trained for possible inconveniences of the down hill hike.
comment of a local
Aufen Mishon
Recommended
guide and porter from Likhubula. Trust him,he is one of the good boys, to takes
you to everywhere yoe want. He knows more about mountains Mulanje.
july 28 (D)
CCAP Hut - Mulanje
The morning donated us a sky free wirhout clouds, only the hill arrenged its shadow over us. We had to push our guide Aufen to bring him to higher power. Short after 8 we stared to hike down in the shadowed mountains. Reached the highest point of our descent the rays of sunshine touched us. The cold of the last days nad nights get disappeared. The descent was not so heavy like the ascent, but it taks highest demands of concentration and material too. A little inattentiveness had released a crash down and so probably some fraktures caused. A herd of 25 or more free runnig teenage Southafricans met us at the same point like the Dutchs two days before. at their way down hill. After this wu hiked down without special events. Nevertheless my heavy scrapes I went as second and best white with a time of 3 hours 25 minutes and 45 sekundes over the finishline. Rene´ shortly behind me get last. In order to pay not to much for our guide I donated my favourite jeans jacket. The time was short past 11, we haven´t eat today and so it was time to have a breakfast beer at the bar of the little village Likhubula. So strengthened we startet part two of our marathon to Mulanje. Surrending the hopes for a lift in the right direction we went hiking. We couldn´t persuade all of the black children to join us at the long way to Mulanje. The last km we went by a lift after all. Arrived at the market of Mulanje I buyed a bag of chips for my travel guide as promised. He had wished it at the journey from Blantyre to Mulanje yearned for. The welcome at the Chelidi motel was relative restained. But the picture Rene´ carried was happening the female reception boss, whos is getting even fat the last years. We know the desire for pictures by the locals. A little toen walking ends in a street, where bar to bar and restaurant to restaurant stands. After a good cup of tea in one of this top class restaurants - we didn´t look for the cent or better the tambala now - we went back to the motel. We looked forward to our dinner. The cook was amezed to have friends of the african cuisine as guests and looked forward to cook nsima for us. At this time Rene´ should supply two bottles of beverage free of alkohol from the bar. Instead of he supplied two bottles of beer and the fat contributor of the beer, Rashid. He was drunken and Indian, but also he had a african grandmother. Really we get not clever about this man, but he payed also the next two bottles. When the bar get closed he went together with his also drunken cousin - a pretty miserable looking guy - to the bar of the neighbour village.
29.7.(R) Mulanje
The day started some murky, but it should change. Only the
nearby tops of the hills were covered in clouds. For today we had planed to
visit the tea factory and so we marshed full of expectations to it. Mulanje is
situated in the hearth of a tea plantages area. 
The body controller at the gate prevented us from the immediatly entry. By his
order we taked a seat and waited for the responsible wasungu guide. After some
minutes a member of the management came to tell us, that guided tours are only
possible if agreed in advance. But this wat not the cause and so a qualified
guide was not available. Probably the wardrobes were not cleaned up
correctly. So the remainder of the mourning went by when we watched the
beautiful scenery.
After the lunch including somosas for dessert we visited a barber shop with mirror. I convinced the barber to let my konsercativ european hair cut and only to cut a little shorter. Also if a afro look is more in and cheaper furthermore I was content with the work of the barber. As alternative for the elude seightseeing of the tea factory Orginal Travel get endeavour at once to integrate an other highlight in the daily programm. With our sponsor Coca Cola we agreeded to organize a tournament for youth footbol teams. In the park stadium of Mulanje taked place the regional finale Blantyre vs Moluza. The first highlight of the field delivers the referee, standing in the middle circle and blowing in his whistle regularly. Arround him there was not much action. After the third whistle the players of one team prepared for the game with stupid dancing. A second team was not to see. Another whistle of the referee, who delivers a faultless performance untill now, we taked for reason to leave the stadium and to have tea and sandwiches in a nearby restaurant. If we went back the situation get more in trouble. The referee had leaved the field and the preparing programm was finished. Suddenly two teams runned at the field from the opposite side and presenteted in front of the stands. The stadium speaker grasped the microphone and let the officialls tell some words. The majority or the spectators supported the favorit team from Blantyre which had a U17 national players in their rows according the informations of our neighbour. We supported Moluza, in which rows played some barefoot striker. The fellow supporters of Moluza decreased their accountal inferiority when waving through the stadium all five minutes. But all the support didn´t help. Blantyre get in front merit. In the second period the linesman waved with his jacket to display a penalty. I get´s the deciding 2:0. We leaved the stadium back to the Chedidi Motel. The sensation did not appear. Now we have dinner, chicken curry and nsima. At the evening programm there is optional the motels pavillon bar, a chibuku store, cinema or entertainment center. Because Rashid didn´t donate beer today and made a repentant impression too, we canceled th pavillon bar from the programm. Rashids Cousin get in trouble to close the door of the room, he entered with the woman of his hearth. For aggravation of the cleaning stuff, he let slip a bottle of beer out of his hands. Yesterday he was mor clever when he first locked up the door of the room with the lady and then went to have a beer. Because the cinema didn´t offer a good movie we decided to visit the most popular chibuku bar of the town.
The people we meet there, had maked the decision earlier. A cardboard box of chibuku costs 18 kwacha (= 0,36 €), its relativ cheap. If I emtyed my cardboard box with great plesure, Daniel denied the drinking. In appearance and tast chibuku was a little different to other drinks. and so we pampered wasungus went back to our pavillon bar. There I discovered the practical in small bags packed cane spirit, which helped to stop the fermentation of the chibuku. A bottle of green helps to make a civilized condition in the stomach.
comment
of a local
Comment
for Chelidi Motel
It is
about 1,5 km from Mulanje Boma. Near to Chitakale Trading Center. Custumers like
it and it is aclean place. People working there are friendly to customers. They
keep clean and wash bedsheets in every room every days. Customers like meals
they have and we have quick and experienced cooks. The motel has 22 rooms, 15
rooms with shared baths and 7 rooms are selfcontained. Customers from all over
the world like Chedidi motel, even people from Germany because it has good
recommendation.
july 30 (D) Mulanje – Liwonde
I get happy when my travel guide awaked. All the night I was worry which effect the local alcoholic drink get to the central nervous system and the physical stability. All seems to be ok, we could make breakfast. Full Breakfest get served, nevertheless we didn´t order. But why I could order some other? For breakfast there is breakfast like in other countries too. The early arriving of a large and empty long distance bus promised a good start by public transport to direction Liwonde national park. But this bus seems to be the rag collector of Malawi. At each km the bus stoped to change a increasing number of fellow travellers have reached their final destination and waitings wishing to go by bus. Our plan to be in Limbe at 9 am to get an early transport to Zomba or further failed. At half past 10 we arrived in Limbe, looking for a lift. But it seems that only busses to Blantyre depart here. We had to went to another street, which was reservated for busses to direction Cape Maclear. A minibus was ready to depart, but Rene´ didn´t sit confortable and a local could not watch the pain of Rene´ and recommende to change in the next, larger and more luxurios bus. It was a good choise, because the feeding of the passengers get easy through the window by the vendition youth of the bus station. In fact of the fast and direct drive nearly without stop we could maked up the wasted time from the morning. But this fact puts us for the deciding question, is it sensible to continue the journey short before arriving. We decide to stay for the night in the small town Liwonde. A orderly but cheap resthouse would found quick.
If seightseeing the town wew discovered a excursion hotel of the 5 star categorie with a magnificant view over the river Shire. The tourism minister of the african countries meet at a round nighbour table and debatted how to prohibit bilharzerose.The waiter couldn´t change and so we lost 6 kwacha. It was time to leave. At the bar of our resthouse there was also a donater, who supported us in the action "make Malawi more green with green". Once again Rene´ demonstrated all locals, that he can beet me in Bao gambling. For alternation today we eat nsima and chicken, completely different. Our friend the gecko eats cockroach and we had the plesure to watch this natural spectacle of eating and getting eat direct beside the menue at the wall.
31.7.(R) Liwonde - Ulongwe - Mvuu Camp - Ulongwe - 5km vor Mangochi - Mangochi - short before Monkey Bay-Chembe
Infected by the activity of the other inhabitants of the
resthouse, whos early started to sweep the yard, we also starte early in the
day. By a nearly empty minibus we went to Ulongwe. There were waiting the stuff
from the bicycle shuttle service to pick up us. 
.
Because the sun didn´t develop the full power, the 15 km ride at the bicycle
laguage racks get less exhausting like expected. The way lead us through some
little villages, where the intimate call "wasungu" from the throats of
the new generation locals sounds 100 times. From the entry of the national park
to the river we had to walk 1 km. A lot of elefant shit heaps gave evidence
about the abundance of big animals in the park. Arrived the ferry stationwe
watched the rare spectacle of a crocodile eating a kormoran. This wildlife
and the appetite of the crocodile makes us appetite for the opposite shore. Here
we liked to leave the path of the real backpacker life and live in the luxory of
the malawian top camp. But the gods of budget travelling disapproved of
our blasphemic senses. By wireless we get the information from the reception,
that Mvuu Camp is fully booked. Nevertheless we crossed the river to look what
is possible. Mvuu
Camp welcomes us with a welcome drink. The camp really was fully booked and
so couldn´t enjoy to rest in the hippo outdoor
enclosure.
But we booked a boat trip at the Shire river and and the participation at
luchbufetdishesfillwithmealsandthanallsittogetheratthetablesittinglunch. The
first get really a hightlight, 2 hours shipping at the river during pernament
gamewatching. Mvuu camp mades his name honour. Elefants, kudus, waterbucks, and
in parts endemically birds lets observing. Daniel seems to have no interest for
the naturale spectacle, because he had anytimes a curious instrument before his
eyes, from which he coaxed strange click and soom sounds. The lunch was great
too. The gods of budget travelling angried even now and didn´t allow a
cancellation of a booking. Instead of relaxing in the camp we had to walk 16km
back to the road. I feelt this as a fair punishment for our blaphemic intention
and get ready to pay for. Daniel seems not to be ready, because he told
his pain at the reception, so I feelt ashamed. But after only a half km marshing
the first lift comes away. A car of the save the children organization picked up
us and carried us to the road. Scarcely arrived there, a well filled
minibus cames away to went in direction Mangochi. Even we catched a
typical Africa picture, a goat at a bicycle. Then we started. The
gods of budget travelling seems goodwilling to us again. Whats now happens
was speed backpacking of extra class. The minibus takes us to 5 km before
Mangochi, then the petrol get finished. But a transport takes our man from the
Aral advertising and some other traverllers include us to the next petrol
station. Also here we changed the lift quick and get in a but to Monkey Bay. Just
before this town our conductor stoped a approaching transport, which carried a
load of wasungus to Cape Maclear and handed over his white load. Something
scarcely for possible believed seems to get reality. Just today we should follow
the order to rescue Chembe, which I read at Doogles. The transport seems to work
for the "Fat Monkey", a new enterprise of Chembe. Here dropped
up the most of the wasungus. But we decided for Emmanuels campsite, where I get
good experience three years ago. The sun was set down when we reached our
destinationn. I was surprised to get welcomed with the words "welcome
back". Nixon, age 14 now, actual had recognized me again. Both happy
we changed the first words. Check in get fast, now we had to go to look for
food. Although it was dark, I believed to see, that not much has changed
over the last three years. Some mor bussiness but the charakter of Chembe, the
mix of ansient fishing village and backpacker outdoor enclosure still happens. A
little boy takes us to the home of the pizza, a enterprise by hihs fahter. The
coise of the rich offer gets more simple because not all was available. A
couple of dutchs arriving after us had it even more simple. The pizza we get
served was tasteful and also the Green has not changed taste and charakter. So a
day rich of evants ends and I had to write three pages in my diary.
august 1 (D) Chembe
It was a good morning today, tuesday the first of august. The sun was shining, the campground get rolled and sweeped, Emmanuels mades a good impression at daylight too. At the way to the breakfast we were welcomed by a lot of friendly children voices with the euphoric and soundful welcome words "wasungu". In the future Tschibo branch of Chembe there was fresh rolls and a cup of tea for breakfast. At the following visiting of the village the first contacts to the souvenier selling trade get made. But there get now deal now. Because the morning was young and our powers dont get exhausted, we decided to climb the nearby Nkhuguni hill. This hill counts to the most dangerous and most perfidious mountains. Uncounting tourest, also expirienced climbers whos risked to climb the hill, payed it with their lives. Even missed the trail, only the fewest find out a chance to survive and to rescue from the catches of the hill with its deadly effecting climbers, unsourmounting precipices and men eating monkeys under the sun for Afrika. The graves at the bottom aof the hill points for itself, but couldn´t prevent us to cross the threshold between live and death, to climb the top of the Nkhuguni sparsely equiped. Despite the warning graves my travel guide get in the madness of unimitatable actions and deviated from the right way. Nevertheless he used the allegiance of his first and only one client - that is me - to entangling in a ominous fight for the naked life. Just after one hour and using my skills to find back the starting point of the ominous losing of the way, we could went back and return over the thereshold of live. We had really luck, because the gods of budget travelling stands at our side. But which high price we had could pay for a phantastic but last view over Chembe, After a refreshment bath in the lake we went for lunch to the restaurant near our camp. Henry the barkeeperlaments his pain as a poor local, dreaming for his one bar in the capitol. During this I intesived my trading relations with the souvenier vendors. A happy hippo seems to get my now pet. The afternoon was free to waste for all travellers. While the travel guide was sleeping, I used the facilities of the lake to get activ for sports. So the afternoon passed away. The happy hippo and a wooden fishing man get layed down to my feet. I had only to pay. Also Rene´get infected of the buying virus. After some negotiations we get richer of a hippo (10kg), a fishing man, two candlesticks, 10 postcards and salt and peper shaker and less 1770 kwcha and two shirts. The sun set down and we expected Nixon at the camp fire. He cooke the meal for us and after the obligatory spicing it tasted really good. Then Henry expected us in his bar and so ends a exciting and wunderful relaxing day at the Lake Malawi.
august 2 (R) Chembe
Because just slight from the term relaxing degressing
exertions like yesterday, produced panic, hallucinations and swindle, there was
agrred to reduce the programm of the day some levels down. After the
breakfast in the bakery and a short bath we liked to discover the village the
whole length. 
So
we liked to discover some new acomodation enterprises. At the way I met Griba, a
painter who had a meeting with me today. But he told me that my assignment
get set back, because today he had to worl for a big six men contract. In some
distance to the original accomodation and feeding places the "Fat Monkeys"
get created two years ago. The barman recognized my face again. Three
years ago he worked in the restaurant "Gap". But this place didn´t
work more, a pity I had looked forward to eating a t-boone steak. But the
barkeeper was the sixt to recognize me again. My purpose of 10 people
recognizing me again seems to be attainable now. After the loss of OB, Thomas
and Wisdom for different reasons couldn´t me meet again in Chitimba, it seems
not so simple to comlete. From the Fat Monkey we went along the beach,
passing the largest fishing cooperation of the village, to the Chembe Lodge, a
place with luxury tent accomodatoins. At the beach there were sailing boats,
conclude a clientel with more money in the pockets. Nothing for me,
because I am not the man for one yacht. The way back we went along the street
crossing the bussiness quarter of the locals. Lunch we get in the
"Ritz" , two days ago designated wrong by me as the pizzeria. Rice
with sausage and sauce we had at our feeding plan. The sight of our neighbour
table, where a 100 kg wasungu was sitting, lets Daniel get the brilliant idee to
order to ieces of chokolade cake at the passing bakery deliverer. Together with
a cup of coffee the graesy meal completes. The afternoon get wasted, from
time to time we spended in the lake. Later we get a visit of Jefferson Gulo Am Nachmittag erhielten wir
Besuch von Jefferson Gulo, Künstler und Begründer des Grünen Punkt Chembe. Er
erklärte uns, wie man Chibukukartons recycelt und daraus Postkarten macht.
Angetan von seinen Schilderungen kauften wir noch mal für 100 Kwacha. In the
evening Martin cames back from the island where is another camp runned by
Emmanuels. He was the seventh to recognize me. At the dinner Nixon told that the
former simbabwen owner of Gap didn´t pay tax and so had to escape. There
was melancholy in the air, if I fotographed my good old faithful and every
time ready to walk sandals for the last time. They should stay in Chembe.
comment
of a local (Martin)
Emmanuel
is a place where people and tourists enjoyed more then at other places. Visitors
were enjoyed with cold drinks and barbecue on the beach. Enjoy the sunset at the
beach, Emmanuels is rely safe. There are a couple of boys which are helping Mr.
Emmanuel to run the place. Their names are Martin, Choise, Kanary, Bless Shawn
and Dougles. You are all welcome at these place. Enjoy yourself and tell others
about these good news here in Malawi. Good wishes to all backpackers and
cartravellers by Martin.
comment
of a local (Freddy)
Comment
for Emmanuels
These is
a very good place. You will tell your friends about Emmanuels and the people
which works here. They are good boys and can do everythink for you what ever you
want to do. They can look for your thinks when you are at the bar. Here is also
a watchman whos watch for every thinks at Emmanuels. I can also take you to the
island for snorkeling. You are going to see nice fishes. You can also bay beer
from Emmanuels. Thank you in advance for yoar comments for Emmanuels. You are
welcome back
comment of a local (Nixon)
Good
news. Welcome to the beach. Good entertainment in Cape Maclear. Barbecue at the
beach, a speciality I do for you. I cook food at the beach, I also take people
out to the island, I also take them for hiking. You are welcome by Nixon
Chabinkoni and Fredi Wabi. Here is no robber and no thive, you can also walk at
night. If you want anythink to be done, than you can ask for Nixon and Fredi.
You cant miss us, we are near to Emmanuels Campsite.
august 3 (D) Chembe - Mangochi
The night was stormy in weather conditions. But typicall for this place in Malawi, in the morning the storm put down. So the morning get wunderful again. The farewell comitee taks in positioin and everybody sayd good bye with the typicall handshake of Africa. At the bakery there was no trouble today, there was no tea and only three rolls. Fast we found a pick up to Monkey Bay. But the load surface get filled sparsely for the annoyance of the owner. for this reason the pick up commuted from the upper to the lower village in the first hour. After we had passed all parts of the village for two times, we started in directin Monkey Bay. Similar like two days ago we didn´t reach our destination, because after a few meter at the main roud a bus to Mangochi cames towards to pick up us. Exept to meet a lot of Dutchs again, there was nothing to tell about the bus drive. We arrived Mangochi bevore noon. The resthouse prefered by my travel guide, which was in a good rememberance for him, we reached quick. But for dismay of my travel guide things have changed all. The owner had changed, no known faces to see and all was a little get down. The stuff didn´t speak english and so nothing was to hear about the stay of the former owners. That was bitter for Rene´ , because he was in good hode, he had get the only anwer back from Mangochi. So we looked for an other resthouse. The town is formed vary spaceful. Really is this fact the attractiveness of the town, but with full bagage, the glowing sun, the frustration about the fall of the resthouse and the pressuring hippo at the back, the walking get to exhausting. After two more not good enough resthouses and a long distance with thirst, I stoped at a icecream bar and guarded our lugage. Rene´ untiring went looking for a good place to sleep, shower and shit. Succesful he went back to the icecreame bar after one hour. He had booked two rooms in a Chishango resthouse. We checked in and after 10 minutes rest we went to the post Africa, to send the last greetings to home. A local who seems to be rich, invited us to join him in his mercedes, because he had the same destination. He had only to fill up, which should be no problem. But either he was a unloved client or the two filling stations had really no petrol. It gets barely with the petrol, but at the third try it happens. The driver used this fact to order 5 liter, which we have to pay. But because we didn´t like to pay we had to leave the car and to walk. We handled our post office deals, but to call in Malawi seems to be a problem again. To reconfirm our return flight we had to use a special equiped telecomminication center. But this was also a try without success, because the telefon numbers in Lilongwe has changed and the new numers are not known in the whole country. Now I visit a big construction site. The Japaneses get the idee to tear down the old bridge over the Shire and to pay for a new bridge. So the german construction company Bauer get a assigment. At the contruction fence i talked from colleague to colleague with the austian civil engeneer about the project. Now it was time for lunch. We found a nice restaurant. But the waiter seems to not understand english, because we ordered lunch and he replied it with friendly gestures, but meals didn´t get prepared or served. So we went to a chips vendor for lunch. Because the travel guide shows some feebleness today, I sent him to the bed. I visited the ice cream bar allone, where I met again the fat wasungu from yesterday. Rene´ feels better after a good diner in a good restaurant which was equiped with a microwave oven and some cups of time. But he went to sleep early and I sit in the restaurant with the stupid waiter to drink a bottle of Carlsberg special brew and to finish the diary for today.
august 4 (R) Mangochi
After surviving the sunstroke, some fellows have to bear for the whole life, get cured in less then 24 hours, I could go for work with 100% power. After breakfast we went to the bank to change money. A friendly clerk with a correct stuff dress pointed the people to the correct desk. Here at the bank nothings was to feel about „Thinks are changing last 3 years“. Otherwise than in the communication bureau where they get detected, that the new telefon number of Lilongwe get out of order. Cultural highlight of the day was the visiting of the museum. The Entry was free. To watch there were same prepaeted animals, some exhibitions about history, som machines and instruments of the steamer Gwendolen and a department with aquariums, behind the dirty glasses some fishs seems to be. Then we crossed the Shire and watched the big constuction site again. Next point of the dayly programme was the visiting of the market, where I buyed three music tapes and ordered the manufacture of new sandals for me. In the Southern Bottlers depot of the town we get donated soma Coca Cola pictures, but the bottle opener I hope for, was not available. For lunch we decided for our favourite restaurant. Not surrender the hopes to find some acquitances of former times, I visited the cosmetik shop near the restaurant and really I recognized the children of Sheik Isa, the former owner of Ritzick resthouse. His oldest son recognized me too. After the lunch the boss was in the shop too. He told that he has rent the restaurant and was also in knowledge about its bad quality now. Because half of the travel group opposed against the visiting of the Chibuku brewery, the point get canceled. We went to the market to to pick up the orered sandals. Unfortunaly I had to find fault with the result, the sandals were to small and I asked for adjusting. At 5 pm it should get finished. Than we liked to visit Mr. Awadi. I had some problems to find the right way, but I did master it. Mr. Awadi was not at home, but I let greet him by someone walking at the property. At 5pm the shoemaker had finished his work just in time and sold it me for the negociated price. Proud with my new shoes I went back to the resthouse. For dinner we went again to our favorite restaurant, where tho owner and his wife proud went in position to make a picture. The dinner was tasteful and nearly for the same price like we had to pay in the expensive Ice cream bar, where Daniel me pushed there. The end of the day takes part in the entertainment center like yesterday.
P.S. yeh yeh, Sheik Isas wife recognized me - Nr.10
comment of a local
Jabu Ali Mussa
P.O. Box
77
Mangochi
– Malawi
These
are very nice people. They are having breakfast, dinner and lunch here at pick a
dish restaurant every day. I think they like our food and they took apicture of
us which they will send to us. Our food is very good food in the whole Mangochi.
We hope they come again next time. We cook chambo from Lake Malawi, chicken
curry, rice, nsima, roasted chambo, grilled chambo, breakfast, eggs, steak,
vegetables and all sorts of african and indian food. Yoa are most welcome here
at pick a dish restaurant. You will meet me or Mrs. Tabu. We are all Malawiens.
5.8.(R)
Mangochi – Kamuzi Airport
Time to say good bye with melancholy to Malawi. The whole day was a farewell from Malawi. Fast we get from Mangochi to the Liwonde-Balaka connection. Here at this importend junktion a big market has developted. Here we get malawian wood ccarvings as souveniers. A lift to Lilongwe we get without problems at the african way. Daniel climbed at the passenger seat, untypical to say good by to african transports. But this flaw get equalized when a rasta curly african beauty take a seat behind him and he could amused chatt. When the beauty dropped off short before Balaka I get under compulsion to take the seat in the front. Further saying good bye to Malawi we went to Lilongwe. At the bus station and arround there was a heavy rush hour crowd, which could take the orinetation. But we found a minibus carring us to the airport, The the usual procedure if dropp off the junktion to the airport and a short walking till a lift picked up us. We arrifed our final destination in Malawi in the afternoon. Now we had to decide between a waiting at the terminal or a row camp at the meadow. The stuff couldn´t help us to decide. At 5 pm the airport closed. Then changed expulsion with the permission to lay down at the sofas. Finaly a precautionary stuff member pushed us in a car and carried us to the nearby trainee center of Air Malawi. Here we get a room for rent. Some drinks also were possible. Late we went sleeping for a short night.
Highlight of the day, we met Patricia!
6.8.(R)
Early stand up, guided walk to the airport, check in, get in, take off, goodbye Malawi.
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