Acquiring a puppy is more than just a purchase, it is a commitment for 10 or more years to provide physical, mental, and emotional support to a living, feeling being. I sincerely hope that your new puppy was the result of lots of research and thinking about the most appropriate dog for your lifestyle. But even if it wasn't, it is not too late to get started properly. Whether your puppy is a wonderful All-American breed from a shelter or rescue group or the next Westminster Best in Show it needs the same love, time, and work. The following is information that will hopefully help you and your new puppy acheive a wonderful relationship and help you prepare your puppy to become a well-behaved and well-loved member of your family. If you have any questions please feel free to email me.
BASIC TRAINING PRINCIPLES:
There are two basic reasons an action is learned (a) to avoid unpleasant consequences and (b) to enhance pleasant consequences. An action is likely to be repeated if it brings pleasant results or if it prevents unpleasant results, and an action is likely to not be repeated if it prevents pleasant results or if it brings unpleasant results.
As an owner this gives you several focuses of training. Some trainers prefer a punishment oriented approach. This method involves constant application of unpleasant consequences (most often a physical reprimand such as striking or an applying of pressure to the throat) whenever the animal does not perform the action that is desired. Personally, I have serious doubts as to the appropriateness of this method. Yes, it produces obedient dogs, but at what cost? Is minding out of fear how you desire your dog to live its life?
Another method that is becoming popular is the clicker method (used by dolphin and whale trainers). This method involves rewards every time the dogs performs an action that is desired. No commands are given until much later and punishment is never applied. I have never tried this method and have heard mixed reviews from those that have. It is preferred by most trainers for Agility trials because it promotes independent thinking. Most obedience trial trainers find that this method does not quite live up to their needs in producing prompt and crisp responses to commands. This method certainly takes longer to produce a dog that knows commands. But users feel that the relationship that is built and the enjoyment of the dog far outweighs any negative aspects. There are many wonderful websites on clicker training.
The current method I use, and most obedience trial trainers use, is a mixture of the two. The animal is shown the action and given a command. This is repeated several times with food or praise reward given every time. The command is then given to see if the animal has associated the command with the action. If it has, lots of reward (food or praise or both) is given. If not, the animal is shown the action and the command repeated. This is done until the animal shows a clear association between the command and the desired action. The command is then repeated and reward given EVERY time the animal performs the action. If it does not perform the action do NOT punish simply show the animal what is desired. Once the animal has performed every time for ten consecutive times the desired action upon command, then the animal is considered to have learned the command. At this stage not performing the desired action is no longer a matter of not understanding it is a matter of not obeying and, therefore, punishment is given for not performing the desired action upon command.
It is very important to distinguish between not understanding and not obeying. The former is NEVER to be punished as the animal has no idea of how to avoid punishment, that is, it does not know what you want. Punishing at this stage will only create fear, hostility, and mistrust in you. Not obeying, on the other hand, may be punished and should be, in my opinion. The animal knows what is expected but chooses to not act as it should. In essence it is saying "I do not have to heed your orders", and this attitude is unacceptable. Also, at this stage food reward is slowly taken away. Instead of giving a food reward every time the animal obeys, give every second time, then every third time, then vary the intervals between giving the reward. For example, the second time the animal obeys give it the treat, then the sixth time then the seventh time then the tenth time, etc. This is known as varying intervals of reward and has been proven to maintain the desired action longer than if you give it at a set interval (every third time, etc.). Behavior researchers have a lot of explanations for this, I believe this occurs because the animal keeps hoping "maybe next time I'll get a treat!" Praise should be given often if not always for obeying. Everyone likes to be told they are doing a good job including dogs.
DOG-HUMAN RELATIONSHIPS:
Much has been made in recent years about pack structure of wolves and the application to the domestic dog. Some of these principles are valid but remember dogs are NOT wolves. Mankind has selectively bred many "wolf" traits out of the dog. Captive wolves, for instance, will always challenge children because they see them as weaker members of the pack. Our domestic dogs do not. The pack structure, however, does have some relevance to your relationship with your dog. Dogs, like wolves, are not born into a democratic world. In both the wild and domestic canine world there are leaders and followers not equal members of society. Dogs and wolves will not tolerate a leaderless environment. Thus, either you or your dog will be the leader. If you do not assume the role, your dog will. Whoever is leader has the right to choose where to sleep, what to eat, and who can do what. If your dog is leader, then he will believe that he can do what he wants and if you try to stop him it is his job to remind you who is boss. Dogs reinforce their leadership through threats of violence and, if necessary, violence. Many of the dog attacks in homes are due to the fact that the people have allowed the dog to become the leader and then still expect to be able to order the dog out of the chair or off the bed or take away a shoe, etc. The dog's mind does not work that way. If it is the leader, it will not tolerate being told what to do. Hence, the importance of establishing leadership is clearly evident.
ESTABLISHING LEADERSHIP:
Establishing leadership does not mean physically dominating the dog or having the dog live in constant fear of you. It means that you are the one in control. Very simple exercises with your puppy will establish you as the leader. Bitches will roll their puppies onto their backs in order to lick their bellies to stimulate urination and defecation, and the bitch retains this behavior with the older puppies as a means of punishment. You can utilize this behavior to establish dominance over your puppy. While you are watching TV or listening to the radio or just relaxing, take the puppy and turn it upside down and hold it. If it struggles do not punish it but do NOT under any circumstance let it up (if you do release it, you are rewarding its fighting you and this can lead to disastrous consequences). This also works well with an older dog. If it is too large, simply hold it on its back on the ground beside you. Do this for 10-15 minutes every night as long as the puppy struggles. Once the puppy stops struggling, gradually reduce the frequency of holding it on its back. Do not stop completely but reduce to occasional exercises. If the puppy ever starts to struggle, go back to every day exercises then gradually reduce frequency. While puppy is on its back, rub its chest, handle its feet, open its mouth, and touch its genitals. Dogs are naturally very protective of their genitals and they must learn to accept being touched. Children often come up behind dogs, and the dog not used to being handled may react violently. Handling all parts of the body lets the dog know that it must tolerate you doing what you want and also makes veterinarian exams much less traumatic.
Another simple exercise to establish leadership is to take the food away from the puppy while it is eating. Toys and treats should be routinely taken away also. This teaches the puppy that it has to accept the fact that you control everything and what it gets is at your convenience. Puppies naturally demand our attention and we are happy to let them do so. But remember your attention is yours to give NOT theirs to demand. Ration out your attention if the puppy gets too demanding. Remember this: WHAT THE PUPPY LEARNS THE DOG DOES!!! If as a puppy, it can demand your attention then as an adult it will do the same and may get hostile if you refuse it. You, as the leader, control everything and give permission for everything. I know this sounds harsh to our equal rights and democratic souls but remember dogs are not people. Either you or the dog will be in control. It's your decision which one it is. If you choose to let the dog be the leader, expect the dog to assume the position (dogs will not tolerate a leaderless environment) and subsequent exhibit the behaviors of the dominant individual in the relationship.
SOCIALIZATION:
Once you have established yourself as leader, remember it is your job to provide guidance to the puppy. One of the most important things for you to do is to teach the puppy about life. The first 4 months of a puppy's life are critical. By the time it is 16 weeks and preferably by the time its 13 weeks, your puppy needs to be exposed to all things that will constitute its life. If it will be expected to travel, take it in the car. If you will be getting another dog or your dog will be around other dogs, take him around strange dogs. (In doing so be careful, because puppies can easily pick up diseases. Restricting puppy's company to healthy, vaccinated, well-cared-for dogs will allow socialization with dogs while protecting the puppy's health). Take puppy to the park and on walks and around cars and to the vets and etc..... What the puppy experiences now will define life to him. Those kept in isolation or just in the yard or house will not be well-adjusted to the other aspects of life. Socialization is absolutely critical especially with breeds that have aggressive tendencies. Therefore, take puppy to people and bring people to puppy particularly children and the elderly. Many veterinarian practices and dog training facilities offer puppy socialization classes. These are a very excellent idea.
HOUSEBREAKING:
Another area of guidance that puppies need is in elimination. Puppies do not inherently understand that house = no urinate or defecate. They must be taught that. Canines have a natural instinct not to soil their "den" but what they define as their den is not the house it is the immediate area they sleep and eat in. There are many quick fixes to housebreaking, but I have not found any of these that are ultimately successful. The tried and true method that I have found is simply a training exercise. You train proper elimination just like you train sit or stay. To do this you must anticipate the puppy's need to eliminate. After eating, after waking, after playing hard, and anytime puppy is sniffing or trying to wander into places it rarely is are times to get puppy outside (or wherever you deem appropriate to eliminate). Once puppy eliminates, aka "does his business" or "potties" or whatever other COMMAND you choose to tell puppy as you set it down AND repeat as it eliminates, reward puppy very well bordering on excessive! This is one exercise for which you cannot over praise. If puppy has an accident in the house and you catch it, take puppy promptly outside and give the command. Do not punish!! Remember NEVER punish for not understanding just for not obeying. Also realize that puppy physically cannot go longer than 4 hours without eliminating. So frequent trips outside, especially at night, are important. As it gets older the time it can go without eliminating will increase.
Some recommend removing food and water at night. That is a judgment call. If it seems to help and it is not that hot at night, I see no reason not to. Be aware that doing so is not a guarantee that the puppy will not eliminate just reduces the likelihood. After a few days puppy should begin to get the idea. Most will get restless, come up to you, stand near door and whine, etc. to get your attention to take them out. Once puppy is doing this, things will progress rapidly. Just remember the time limits of puppy's bladder and that accidents will still happen. Punishment is NEVER effective unless you catch them in the act. Dogs do not associate events longer than 30 seconds (some say 2 seconds) ago with the punishment (or reward for that matter). I know how hard it is not to punish them, but realize it is not effective and can lead to a fearful puppy.
CRATING: (Specific crating information further down the page).
Crating has become increasingly popular and, in my opinion, is a very good idea. Purchase a crate that will be big enough for the adult your puppy will become. I think that plastic crates are better than wire because wire crates are too open, have too many potential loose pieces to injure the animal, and are not as sturdy. Dogs in stainless steel crates often show signs of zinc toxicity due to licking the crate. Introduce the puppy to the crate by feeding puppy in there. Then shut the door and leave puppy in there supervised for increasingly periods of time. Monitor the puppy for signs of hysteria (some puppies get incredibly upset) which may cause them to injure themselves. Most puppies adapt very well to the crate. They like having a place of their own. Never place puppy in the crate as a punishment, and, once puppy is in the crate, do not punish puppy. The crate is puppy's safe haven. Once puppy is comfortable staying in the crate, leave it in overnight. If it does well crated for several nights you can begin leaving puppy in crate while you are gone.
COLLAR AND LEASH:
Place a well-fitted collar (tight enough not to slip over ears; loose enough a couple of fingers will fit under the collar) on puppy at least by eight weeks of age. Puppy may object but pay no attention. Puppy will soon adjust to wearing the collar. Once puppy is comfortable with the collar, put a leash on the collar. Let puppy drag the leash around for a day or so. Then pick up the leash and walk with puppy. Do not try to guide puppy just let it get used to the "feel" of the leash for 3 to 4 days. Then start applying pressure to the leash and encourage puppy to follow your lead. Reward for compliance; ignore fighting. Continue until puppy accepts leash. This will be followed by teaching "No Pull" and "Heel" with the other obedience commands.
POWER POINTS
MOST IMPORTANTLY: LOVE YOUR PUPPY!!!
INTRO TO CRATE TRAINING
Crate training is essential for most (and a good idea for all) in-house puppies and adult dogs. Many people object to crate training from a mistaken perception that in crating a puppy or dog that they are being cruel or putting the animal in the equivalent of "doggy jail." This perception, however, is based on the human dislike of confinement. Dogs, on the other hand, are genetically predisposed to seek out enclosed areas in which to create a home, a safe haven from the world. Dogs want and need a space of their own. They like having a den to go into. Does this mean that initially the puppy or dog will like being put into a crate? Maybe and maybe not. Some seem to like it more than others. The important thing to realize is that, like any new thing --- give it time to work before giving up on it.
WHY CRATE TRAIN?
Crate training allows the puppy to be kept in a secure location while you are not there to supervise it. This reduces the destruction that many puppies inflict. It is also VERY useful in housebreaking. In addition, it makes traveling, especially flying, less traumatic by the animal already being used to a crate. And lastly, most dogs like a space of their own. Mine "buries" his favorite toys and bones under his crate blankets. He likes having a safe haven. All I have to do is start to scold one of the dogs and he heads for his crate (she won't get me here :-)!). And if something scary like the vacuum cleaner or the lawn mower is on -- well he has a place to hide. And he likes a place to take a quiet nap. For the time my dog spends in his crate only about 70% is imposed by me with the door shut.
HOW TO CRATE TRAIN:
To begin crate training the first thing to do is pick out a crate. It is a good idea to pick out a crate for a puppy that will be of sufficient size for it as an adult. A dog should be able to turn around and lie comfortably in the crate. I like to use a size bigger than is recommended by airlines (for crating to travel) for my home crates. There are stainless steel crates and plastic ones and they come in all shapes and sizes. (I personally prefer the solid plastic ones with the windows). One thing to be aware of -- for puppies that chew, stainless steel wire crates can cause zinc toxicity if they chew on them a lot. Once you've decided on a crate, bring the crate home and set it up wherever the puppy area is to be.
Next, begin feeding the puppy in the crate. Place its water in there. Put treats in there. Throw its toys in there occasionally. The whole idea is to get puppy used to going into the crate and learning that the crate is not a "bad" thing. The crate is new to the puppy and adjustment to it is essential for the puppy. During this time NEVER shut the door. Let the puppy come and go as it pleases. After a few days of this, lead the puppy to the crate and encourage it to go in. Once in, give the puppy something really special like a bone or a toy it likes to chew on. Then calmly shut the door and walk away. Some puppies will quietly accept this and think --WOW! Look what mom or dad gave me today. Others will fuss about it and then settle down. Others will fuss for a longer while but will eventually settle down. The critical thing at this stage is to ignore the puppy. If they learn that fussing will get them out, then the next time they will fuss louder and longer. (The exception to this is the rare puppy that confinement causes extreme upset to and that will severely hurt itself in an effort to get out. These puppies need to be taken to a behavioral specialist. But this condition is VERY RARE.) I usually leave a puppy in the crate for about 10 minutes after it finally settles down. For those that don't fuss at all I leave about 15 minutes. Make sure puppy is not fussing when you let it out. If you walk in the room and puppy starts fussing then walk out. I know this is hard to do but if puppy ever associates fussing with getting let out the training is going to be much harder and the fussing much worse.
Now start varying the time that puppy stays in. Put puppy in for ten minutes here and 40 minutes there and 20 minutes another time. After about three days of this (confine puppy several times a day), start increasing the time to hours. Put puppy in the crate while you run to the grocery store, etc. After a week or so (depending on how puppy is doing), leave it in overnight (remember that puppies cannot hold their urine all night so you'll have to plan on taking it out a least once). After a few nights of this, then start leaving puppy in during the day while you are at work (again remember the puppy bladder needs frequent relief). You now have a crate trained your puppy.
MISCELLANEOUS:
I like to feed my dog in his crate with the door open. This encourages him to go into his crate and also teaches him that everytime he goes into his crate he won't be shut in. I am opposed to the idea of dragging a dog from its crate to punish it. The crate should be their safe haven. If they get into trouble and manage to get to their crate before you can discipline them, then, as frustrating as it is, leave them alone. That said, I think using the crate as timeout (that is, as a place to put the puppy away from its people so as to punish by taking away its privilege to be with you) can be quite effective. I personally do not like to do this but have on several occasions. I think it can be overdone to the point that the crate becomes a "bad" thing instead of puppy's "space" but judicious use of "timeout" can complement a training program.
TROUBLESHOOTING:
(a) My puppy won't go into the crate -- this is a common problem that often occurs when the puppy has not been properly introduced to the crate or the crate has been overused for punishment or the time left in the crate was not slowly increased to allow it to adjust to longer periods of crating. Solution -- try reintroducing the crate. I really like the idea of feeding the puppy in the crate with the door open to encourage entry into the crate and allow the puppy a positive experience in the crate. Periodically throughout the day throw a treat or toy into the crate encouraging the puppy to enter the crate. During these exercises, leave the door open. Once the puppy starts to enter more readily (be sure to heavily praise any such effort), shut the door maybe one every 10 times, then one every 5 times, etc. Teaching the puppy that entering the crate is a positive thing (that is it will be followed by something positive like dinner or a toy or a treat) will help get the puppy into the crate and overcome its reluctance to enter.
(b) Excessive Fussing while crated -- as stated earlier there are a rare few dogs that, like some people, are truly claustrophobic. These dogs will do anything to get out even to the point of inflicting severe physical harm on themselves. These dogs are easily distinguished from dogs that merely resent being crated by the extreme severity of their reaction. These dogs should NOT be crated and should be treated by a behavioralist. Assuming that your puppy does not fall into this category -- what is to be done about excessive fussing? Well, the very first thing is to analyze your response. Do you go into the room and try to soothe it? Do you routinely or have you ever let it out while fussing? If so, then you are encouraging its behavior. STOP!! I know it is hard to do but the very best method is to ignore the dog. Turn the radio or TV up, shut the door to the room, and let the dog howl. This problem should be worked out before crating the dog for the night --else you'll never sleep :-(!! If ignoring is not an option, then the next best method to stop fussing is to walk into the room and scream or throw a loud object (like a can full of coins or stones) anything to get the puppy's attention and get it to hush. When it hushes, and ONLY then, praise it. If it starts fussing again, repeat. Be sure though to ONLY praise when it is quiet. An extreme version of this method is to bang on the crate until the puppy hushes. The puppy resuming fussing is immediately met by banging on the crate. Most puppies will learn very quickly with either the banging or noise method to be quiet in the crate. While teaching this, do not let the puppy out of the crate when you entered the room due to its fussing. If that means leaving and then quickly reentering the room to let it out -- so be it. But if you come into the room while it is fussing and let it out, then you have reinforced the fussy behavior.
Good luck with your new puppy. Give him or her a kiss from me and I hope that your relationship is all that you want it to be.
