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Descriptions
of the country's favorite foods from Manila's finest proponent of good Filipino food - Ms. Nora Daza.
Have a taste and feel of Filipino food at its finest. |
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About Filipino Food
Nora V. Daza
(excerpts from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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ADOBO
From family vignettes, I know that we had pork adobo that was
stored in chinese jars with a thick layer of pork fat to seal the adobo.
The jars were then kept in the banggerahan, the wash basin in old
style kitchens that had wooden slats for drying plates and glasses.
Pork adobo is cooked in a mixture of vinegar, salt, garlic and
peppercorn. Over the years,
chicken was added to the pork and so was bay leaf (laurel) and soy sauce
to give not only color but add flavor as well.
The soy sauce was also a substitute for salt although some still
put salt with the sauce.
Pork adobo not only keeps well
but tastes better when allowed to age in pork fat.
It was probably prepared for the sailors who plied the long
Manila-Mexican galleon routes from the 17th to the 19th centuries.
When I first lived in Paris and was
testing recipes to be included in the Aux Iles Philippines menu, I decided
to use pork chops for the adobo instead of the usual pork cubes to reduce
the fat and sticky sauce which usually turn off foreigners.
Chicken was also cut into well-shaped pieces instead of the random
way that is usual in our cooking.
Filipinos however, look for the mass of browned meat swimming in
pork fat. Many still enjoy
sauteeing the pork fat with garlic which are then added to cooked rice for
the delicious sinangag (fried rice).
- Nora V. Daza (excerpt from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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CALDERETA
This is a dish of Spanish origin and the name comes from the
Spanish word caldero which means cooking pot.
Caldereta is often found in fiestas from Batanes to Jolo.
At the Philippine restaurant I had in Paris, this was one of the
popular items which was prepared with lamb shoulder, green olives, liver
and other spices.
Our own Caldereta has liver with a touch of chili for added spice.
Marinating the meat is an essential step in the preparation of this
dish. Whether one’s
favorite is Caldereta made of beef, lamb or goat’s meat, the prime
objective is to find the blend of flavors that suits one’s taste best.
- Nora V. Daza (excerpt from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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KARE-KARE
In 1965 when I published my first cookbook, I was made aware of
what went into the cuisine which we call Filipino.
I felt then that the most Filipino of our popular dishes would be
the Kare-Kare. That was
probably because I had traveled mostly to Europe and the U.S. and found no
dish similar to it. Today, as
I am learning more about our Asian neighbors, I realized that our
Kare-Kare may have been influenced by the Gado-gado in Indonesia or from
an Indian dish called Kadhi.
Kare has been a favorite since the 1920s and probably even before
that. The cooking methods
employed and the ingredients of various vegetables, the achuete (annatto
seeds), the bagoong and toasted rice are all part of the Filipino’s
culinary experience.
- Nora V. Daza (excerpt from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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MENUDO
Menudo can be prepared with garbanzos (chickpeas), with guisantes
(green peas) or simply with potatoes.
Recently, I tried Menudo with camote (sweet potatoes) and found it
to be seasoned just right for the Filipino taste; a bit on the sweet side
because of the camote. Even
with the kind of meat used, Menudo has many versions.
I have tried using ground beef and ground pork.
The most popular version however is one that is made with pork, a
little pork liver, potatoes, garbanzos, raisins and tomato sauce.
- Nora V. Daza (excerpt from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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PANCIT
PALABOK
There are many versions of the Pancit
Malabon.
The Pascual family of Malabon serve the noodles, called bihon
sariwa, and the mixtures, called sahog, separate.
There would be two kilos of fresh shrimps, the dark variety called
swahe, still jumping when bought, pork cubes, tinapa (smoked fish) that
was shredded, newly-cooked chicharon which was pounded to bits, and sliced
native pechay.
It is the sauce, called the
palabok, which distinguishes one Pancit Malabon from another.
The sauce is all important which is why the noodle dish is also
known as Pancit Palabok. The
sauce is usually made of shrimp stock, a dozen egg yolks, a little bit of
achuete, some starch for thicker consistency, and of course the best patis
and some calamansi for flavoring.
- Nora V. Daza (excerpt from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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SINIGANG
NA HIPON
Sinigang is an Asian soup that can be found in Burma, Malaysia,
Indonesia and Thailand.
In the Philippines, it is a favorite.
We make sinigang with seafood - fish, shrimp or prawns - and meat
such as beef and/or pork.
Traditionally, fish and shrimp sinigang stock is made with rice
washing.
This seems to be a Filipino trait for I have not seen this done in
Indonesian or Malaysian cookbooks.
I know that our cooks at the Mai Thai restaurant do not use rice
washing.
To give our soup the sour bite that is typical of
sinigang, we use
green tamarind or camias or green tomatoes.
Sometimes a twist of calamansi can bring the soup up to the desired
acidity.
In Iloilo and Negros, batuan which grows wild is used to sour their
sinigang.
When making sinigang with meat, I like to season the soup before I
add the meat so that the flavor seeps into the chunks of meat.
If tubers are added to beef or pork, care is taken so that the
tubers are done by the time the meat is sufficiently tender
Leafy vegetables such as mustard leaves, kangkong (swamp cabbage)
or the ordinary cabbage are added last.
Sinigang with lots of vegetables is a good dish to serve for those
on a diet or those with little time.
Last minute preparations are really minimal.
- Nora V. Daza (excerpt from A Culinary Life - Personal Recipe
Collection, Manila, 1992)
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