Internet Mailing List Nov 96
I am a new, first time, TVR owner (L reg, 4.0, 12k miles). Funny how this statement seems to evoke such sentiments of pity and concern from those who hear it? Anyhow, I've spent the last 2 weeks learning just what a quirky beast I've got hold of and I would really appreciate some feedback on what constitutes normality in a TVR. Still for an old grease fingers like me that thought that the days of tinkering with your car without the assistance of a computer diagnostics kit was gone, it's nice to see that the 1970's is alive and well and living under the bonnet of TVRs everywhere.
Yep, they all do that.
Exactly the same as mine (N reg 4.0)..
It's perfectly normal for a Rover engine, as it's a low pressure system. In Rover applications it had an oil pressure relief valve which restricted oil pressure to 35psi, but this is not the case with TVR engines. This is why you have a gauge which reads up to 100psi, but once the oil is fully warm the needle lives in the bottom half of the gauge.
Yep, they all do that. ( In the summer, take the roof off and blow some heat into the cabin.)
London traffic and TVRs don't mix - I try to avoid it at all costs but living in West London as well, you sometimes have to grin and bear it. I get very nervous when stuck on the Embankment and realise I have another 10 miles of 5mph traffic to go..... Listen out for the fans and make sure they are running - Mine seem to run continuously. Once it gets hot it never seems to cool down.... I take it you missed the massive debate we had on hot and cold running. One thing I don't understand is why it should overheat at all. You don't see every Range Rover stuck on the Kings Road 'cos of overheating....
I was the victim of my Griff overheating in Kingston last summer. Blew the cooling fan fuse (twice) and then it was clouds of steam all over the place as I exited the queue I was in and dived up a side road trying to get some cool air over it. To be fair it only worried me again in a queue on the M25 going to a Tuscan race at brands. Once bitten, I suppose.
Most do, some don't. Mine used to go right up to the red line, but never boiled. It used to worry me though. Another Chimaera which was identical to mine (registered same day) was modified in some way by SHG in Farnham, and I am told it runs much cooler. I think all they did was change the thermostat and the sensor for the electric fans. Your dealer should be able to advise..
I've had a manual push-switch mounted in the dash board of my Griff that brings the fans in when ever they are needed. This is usually around town or in traffic jams.
Yep, they all do that. (until the newer ones which have different instruments.)
What ticking noise?
The first demo I drove did this, it drove me up the wall as well. Thankfully when my Chim arrived (Oct. 94 ) they had changed the odo to an analogue one. My sympathy.
You get used to it after a while. When it stops ticking, that's when you start worrying and get out your warranty.
My Griff doesn't do this. But the same dwarf does switch-off the speedo occasionally. Also he moves the indicator to some arbitary position other than rest when I switch the ignition off, and does the same to the rev counter needle as well.
Yep, that too. (as above - 3.)
Never had a problem with mine - maybe they fixed this later on.
Mine have always been pretty consistent. Possibly not right, but consistent.
Yes, probably. But but least you've got a car with character, and not just presence.
I don't want to get started on the German cars one as I've got a deutsch tin top and I like the glass house how it is, ta.
"I decided to buy a sports car instead"
The club is excellent for track days, getting into the Tuscan events (discounts, parking, etc ), and nearly stuffing it on parade laps at Brands.
If you want to meet other owners on a social basis, take your car on the track or get reduced entry at Tuscan Challenge races then certainly you should. Only some of the members are weird!
By way of example here's a TVR anecdote for you. This occurred at a recent Castle Combe track day. A guy had been waiting patiently in line for some hours (and probably months beforehand) for his turn to start lapping in his pride-and-joy (a spotless TVR Vixen - I think). But the moment he attempted to rrespond to the marshall waving him onto the track, the car emitted clouds of smoke and the most awful 'something major and mechanical' noise. Now you may think that the onlookers would gasp in collective shock horror, or offer up sincere condolences before looking the other way. But no, everyone cheered, laughed and clapped in unison. However, the very second the jovialities had subsided, two, three, or more 'Vixen' experts had enveloped the car and were freely offering their assistance.
With winter now approaching, frosty/rainy days I'm getting bucket loads of condensation inside the Tiv (1990 S2) - the heater seems to make things worse - not better. It chucked it down last night and I had to have the windows partly wound down to get some air circulating to clear the screens, which isn't fun at 11.30pm @ 85mph on the M25. I know that condensation usually indicates a poor seal on the door/window/hood etc - but before I do any investigation, is this an inherent feature of the S ?
On another note, I use the TVR (1990 S2) as a second car and it serves its purpose well, however I may have to rationalise my vehicles and sell all 3 and content myself with 1 car. (An possible move into London means I won't have the garage space). Therefore I am looking at either a Chimi/Griff (most likely a J/K plate Griff) as a replacement. Is this sensible? The problems with the S as an everyday car are reasonably obvious:
-low ride height (grounds out regularly)
-doors don't open wide enough
-dislikes *any* bumpy road
-bugger all use wing mirrors - which means LLondon traffic is a hit/miss affair - really!
-heavy steering for town driving - although not a big problem.
I know that most of these things are rectified with the Chimi/Griff
but does anyone use their TVR as their daily transport - and how
good/bad is it? And do the new ones get condensation problems
when it rains!
Andrew Guy
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
I use a 92 Griff 4.3BV as my only car and I'm really happy with
it. I wouldn't recommend driving one in London though as the heavy
clutch, steering and gearshift will soon piss you off in all those
traffic jams. The Griff really needs to be driven on fast B roads
to get the best out of it and yes you'll still have problems with
condensation because the ventilation system is crap.
Nic Collins
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
I get very little condensation in my Griff, but then the only
time it sees rain is when moving, as it is kept in a nice dry
garage. Don't forget the old trick of opening the window a fraction
when on the move, as this draws air out of the car to make life
easier for the fairly low-powered fan. I used to have to do this
with the 350i and it really does make a difference. I'm surprised
no-one has mentioned the traditional TVR trait of instruments
steaming up on the inside. This happens even (perhaps only?) to
cars that live in garages. Perhaps you're all too busy trying
to see out to notice!
Steve Powell
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
My sensible car is a Griff, I don't use it everyday as I catch
a train to work but saying that I've done over 2000 miles in it
in the five weeks I've had it. Yes it has low ground clearance,
the doors don't open very wide, but it is docile(ish) in traffic
and is more practical than you may think. There is a reasonable
amount of room in the back and the boot can swallow lots of shopping!
I must admit that I was a bit worried about having one as my only
car when I bought it, but it really is very good. However I will
be in the market to buy another car next year sometime, but thats
because at the rate I'm going I'll be doing 20,000 miles a year
in the Griff, and thats a lot of Super Unleaded.
David Donnan
Internet Mailing List Nov 96
I have had my Chimaera for nearly three years now. I have used
it to get to work, but could not recommend it as a commuting car
if you expect to crawl along in traffic for an hour. It's just
too heavy with the clutch, and gets unbearably hot in the cabin
(unless the roof's off). Other than that, it's fine. Plenty of
luggage space (even with the lid in the boot), good visibility
including mirrors, comfortable ride, it has NEVER grounded, and
only leaks in extreme circumstances (e.g. 80 mph in a heavy rainstorm
- it survives a jet-wash no problem).
I keep mine in a garage, so I don't usually get misting problems.
It's OK in the wet if you take it easy, but a nightmare in the
snow. I think the car just doesn't put enough weight down on the
back tyres to move the snow right to the edges.
Paul Carpenter
Internet Mailing List Aug 96
For those who are going on a Track day in the near future i.e.
Silverstone, here are a list of the things that you might want
to prepare before turning up! It's a question that came up at
the Northants Region get together outside the Rose and Crown last
night. It's based on the list that the factory send out for their
Performance Technique days and my own limited experience. So here
are my TOP TEN TRACK TIPS:
1. Make sure that the oil is filled to the top of dip stick mark. "The centrifugal forces experienced while cornering can cause a temporary lack of oil pressure if only a minimum of oil is present". I would go one stage further and consider doing an oil and filter change. The engine does get hammered on a track day...
2. Make sure that the cooling system is in A1 condition. i.e. coolant level topped up, fanbelt tight, and there are no leaks. Make sure that the air vents are clear. I normally carry a spare fanbelt just in case.
3. Type pressures should be 2-3 lbs/sq inch higher than for normal road use. Don't assume that there will be an airline available. Do it just before you get to the track. Don't forget to set them to normal again after you leave. A five pound foot pump is a good idea - you can rent it out to the other drivers who didn't adjust their tyre pressures.
4. Make sure that there is plenty of brake pad and tyre tread. Obvious really, but I was surprised at how much tread I took off a pair of Yokohama AVS in one day at Oulton Park(2 mm), and the amount of brake dust that suddenly appeared (very strange that one...). This was quite common judging from the debris on a lot of the cars at the end of the day.
5. Make sure that everything is tied down and not loose. Things to consider in particular are:
Wedge the roof panels in the boot with foam blocks.
Put heavy duty cable ties around the battery just in case.
Take cassettes etc out of the glove compartment - its fun when it flies open and the contents fly out just when you concentrating on doing a Schumacher out of the chicane!
6. Put tape on the external lights just in case they break. They also look good and macho in photos.
7. Be prepared for a lousy MPG. I reckon I did about 10-12 mpg in my S2 at Oulton Park.
8. You will need an ACU improved Crash Helmet. It is possible to borrow them sometimes at the track but if you are going to do several track days, its worth investing in a helmet. I got mine in a sale reduced from £160 to £65 because it looked awful - black full face with dayglo pink and green lightening bolts. But I can't see it when I'm wearing it, so who cares!
9. Check your insurance. In most cases, you have no cover but some companies will cover you albeit with an increased excess.
10. Adjust the accelerator pedal so that it is level or even slightly higher than the brake. This makes heel and toe easier especially on S's.
The factory organises monthly Performance Technique days from April to October which usually co-incide with Tuscan testing. These cost about £175 to drive for the day with additional drivers for the same car at about £40 and spectators can attend for about £20 (This includes lunch). During the sign on and briefing, and during lunch, you can watch the Tuscans try and destroy each other and during the rest of the time, normal TIVs hurtle around the track. You do not have to be a member of the club, and if you buy a new TVR, you usually get invited to participate free of charge by the dealer... The main contact is Vicki Swift at the factory.
The TVRCC also organises track days but you have to be a member of the club to attend so that you are covered by the club's insurance.
I believe the main difference between the two is in the level of instruction that you get with the Performance Technique days where you are continually assessed and tested at least three times during the day. It is normally organised so that you can pick up an instructor from the pit lane without waiting (they have a team of about 15-20 instructors). I found this level of instruction extremely beneficial and worth the higher cost compared to the club day. The track time was great and I did about 45-50 laps of the track through the day - half with instruction. It is recommended that you do about 4 laps and then come in to allow the brakes to cool down and thus prevent them from seizing. Add this to the lunch and stops to watch Tuscans go sideways and you have a very full day. You can also get a photo of you driving round the circuit. Mine shows me on three wheels with daylight under the inside front kerbing the chicane and a *VERY BIG GRIN*!
The best thing about track days is not having to worry about blue
lights and GATSOs... although taking a blind brow of a hill on
the wrong side of the road with your foot to the floor is a little
daunting at first.
Steve Heath