Door Straps
 

See John Cook's "bloody marvellous" guide to fixing the door here
( It's based on pabloantoine's fix described below...)


The door "check straps" or door stops on 850s can sometimes break at the weld, or sometimes simply make noise which can be easily fixed.

The weld break is a significant body job.
Volvo Australia told me that they thought it mostly occurred with people that washed their 850 a lot & didn't relube the door straps.
The moral of the story might then be that prevention is better than cure.
So make sure that these are lubricated well - perhaps check them at every service interval.

Here's a quick brickboard posting regarding the more simple scenario:


... posted by jim  on Tuesday, 19 December 2000, at 11:41 p.m. ...in response to "Door Stop Problems" posted by Kyle Swisher.

                       Kyle:

                       My 96 855T makes this click/pop/bang sound when the strap needs to be tightened (with a TORX
                       driver).

                       Good luck.



 
 
Many thanks to  [email protected]
for this contribution


"The weld break is a significant body job"
It seems this is a common occurence on many 850s. Mine had the bad
version of it - the weld in the pillar gave up and the plates squeaked
and growled with every opening of the door. After checking for possible
approaches to fix it it became clear why there is so much work involved
when welding is chosen. They have to take apart the interior trim, knee
bolster, electric wiring, and access the inner side of the pillar, then
remove the door, which is a collosal ammount of work. A pleasure for
mechanics, who cash grossly for these trinkets.
I came up with a simple sollution which is now 3 months old and  holds
as good as a weld. I did it alone and doesn't require any interior work.

Who wants to give it a try, follow this:
You have to take down the door, which is simple - 2 jackstands under the
door in the open position (tape generously the upper face of the stands
to avoid scratching the door and then push the stands up as far as you
can, even forcing the door a little up -it will help to remove the
hinges). Unplug the door electric connector by removing the small
lockscrew and then twist the plug -which will come out (I didn't
disconect the battery, the contact was off anyway)
Remove the big torx bolt on the strap and the 2 bolts that lock the
hinges- then slowly raise the door (window down)  and slide the hinges
up to clear their brackets. When removed, put the door with the inner
face down in a clean place.
Now find the big hole just in front of the strap on the pillar, covered
with a big rubber plug. Remove it. Drill 1 (or 2) 6 mm holes close
around the strap- where the separation of the inner plate is most
visible - depending on the severity of the separation you will find if 1
or 2 holes will fit your case. You have to insert  in each hole a good 6
mm bolt and nut, the nut in interior. Be carefull to drill close enough
to the strap and catch the 2 plates (they cause the squeak/growl), not
just the pillar sheet metal.  The big hole you removed the rubber plug
from  allows you to access the interior of the pillar with your fingers
and fit  a nut on the back of each hole, while from the outside fitting
the bolt in the hole and catching the nut. It takes a while to fit them
-I taped with scotch tape the nut on my middle finger to prevent it from
dropping indside the pillar -crucial idea after I lost 2 nuts inside !
When you catch the nut with the bolt, you're set. Tighten well to
strongly catch both plates, follow then with the second hole -one could
be enough in many cases. I chose to drill 6 mm holes and fit 10M bolts
and nuts. I sprayed the fix with paint to prevent my bolts from rusting.

Reinstall the door, no adjustments necessary because you just unlocked
the hinges and now you'll put the bolts back for each hinge, as it was
before. The last comes the bolt for the strap (don't forget the rubber
cover).
All operations on the door must be done with it opened as far as it will
go.
The fix is as good as a weld and costs 2 bucks, -excluding your work,
which is, I recognize -pretty hard when you have to fit the nuts inside
the pillar, blindly. But hey, what a satisfaction when you succeed!

 


See John Cook's graphic description of this fix, with a blow-by-blow commentary of what you need to know to fix the problem...
go there

Many thanks to [email protected]

back to ozbrick 850 home page
 

If you have any experiences, facts, hints comments or data that you think might be useful on the site, please

email me

and I will post it, with an acknowledgement of your contribution (if you so wish).



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