Out on the Tiles...
...The Led Zeppelin Adventures of Andy Lee and Michael Tully
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London Calling
December 11, 2007

Rumors of a Led Zeppelin reunion gig had been swirling for several weeks, but when the band called a press conference for Sept. 12, 2007, it was evident the rumors were about to materialize into full-fledged fact.  I was traveling in Scotland at the time when Mike notified me of the impending announcement.  After a day in Edinburgh, I returned home to Colorado Springs on Sept. 11, anticipating what the following day�s announcement would bring. 

When it was announced that Led Zeppelin would perform a one-off reunion show on November 26 at London�s O2 Arena to honor the late co-founder of Atlantic Records, Ahmet Ertegun, we knew we�d be there front and center, but just didn�t quite know how.  The promoter explained that a lottery system would be employed to determine the lucky fans who would be afforded the privilege of purchasing one of 15,000 tickets made available to the public. Our chances were slim, but then again everyone knew that winning the lottery wasn�t really the only way to get tickets.  At the end of the day, when push came to shove, Mike and I decided that we�d pay up to $1,000 for a ticket if that�s what it took to attend this historic and possibly once-in-a-lifetime event.  But first we�d play by the rules and enter our name into the lottery system � 200 times.
Technically the rules stated that only one entry per person per household was allowed and that the original winner of the ballot MUST attend the show, however it was clear that both of those rules were ultimately impossible to enforce from the get go.  So after creating about 150 unique e-mail addresses via various free sites like hotmail, yahoo and g-mail, I spent an afternoon at the coffee shop entering the ballot in my legal name 150 times.  Mike and I also enlisted about 50 of our friends and family to enter the ballot in their names on our behalf.   So with about 200 entries for 7,500 available winners (each winner was allotted the ability to purchase two tickets), we liked our chances.  Early estimates stated 20 million people applied for the
The first step was winning the ballot...which ultimately yielded a chance to buy two tickets
lottery, but clearly that number was confused with the number of hits the website to enter the lottery attracted since it would be impossible that one out of every 300 people on the planet applied for tickets.  A more realistic estimate that later surfaced stated that 1 million people entered the ballot. With that, we liked our chances.  The window to enter the ballot passed on Sept. 19 and we were confident that at least one of our 200 entries would be picked.

The first round of winners were notified via e-mail on Oct. 1, but it wasn�t until the morning of Oct. 2 that I awoke to an e-mail to one of my accounts � [email protected] � that I realized Mike and I were one of the lucky pairs to win the ballot.  Within the hour I had purchased a pair of standing-room-only general admission tickets for face value ($250 apiece).  Considering that�s less than we paid per ticket for our first Page & Plant show in March of 1995 in Austin for fourth row, I considered it a bargain.  With those seats, a spot in the front row now only required a bit of planning.
Later that week the logistics had come together. I booked a pair of tickets on United Airlines for Mike and me using my frequent flier miles and secured a room at the Custom House Hotel, just across the river from the O2 Arena in the Docklands. We were set to leave on Thanksgiving Day and spend four nights in London when news broke that Jimmy Page fractured his finger, pushing the concert back to Dec. 10.  Immediately panic set in, but after a quick glance at the calendar I realized that pushing the trip back a couple of weeks wasn�t a big deal � at least for me.  Mike had to rearrange some prior commitments, but in the end it wasn�t a major setback.  Free airline tickets are easy to change without any monetary penalties, so we changed our travel date to depart for London on Friday, Dec. 7 and return the day after the show on Dec. 11. Ultimately we lost one day in London, but I�d already been there twice and Mike once, so it wasn�t like we were missing much.  We cancelled our hotel,
The Hotel Ibis in Stratford - Our home base for our  days in London, just three tube stops from the O2
instead opting for the Ibis London Stratford � three stops north of the O2 on the Underground�s Jubilee line. With the U.S. dollar in the toilet, the Ibis ran $418 for three nights � pretty much the cheapest thing going in London � but more importantly the location was perfect.

With this set to be our 47th Led Zeppelin-related concert in 13 years, we placed the greatest priority on being in the front row for the show.  We quickly determined that this would most likely necessitate camping out. Although we hadn�t met Jimmy Page since 1998, we sacrificed even trying in order to ensure ourselves prime real estate for what promised to be an epic event.

After word of the concert�s postponement on Nov. 2, Mike and I spent the next six weeks planning our trip and considering the options available to us that would ensure our presence in the front row.  We kept to our old-school line of thinking and packed rain gear, warm clothes, sleeping bags and winter weather hats, scarves and gloves to endure the Weather Channel�s prediction of 40 degrees and rain � all day every day. On the morning of Dec. 7, Mike left his home in Lincoln, Neb. and me from mine in Colorado Springs before we met that afternoon in Chicago.  After a relatively uneventful flight to London, we landed at Heathrow Airport just before 6:00 a.m. on Saturday, Dec. 8.  We quickly cleared customs, picked up our luggage and headed to the closest Underground Station to board the Tube to Stratford.
Ninety minutes later, we exited the train at Stratford Station and walked about 400 meters to the Ibis London Stratford, a centrally located hotel in the center of the suburb�s business district and adjacent to a huge shopping mall and all of the conveniences of mainstream America � a McDonald�s and Starbucks to be exact.  We quickly checked in, unpacked, showered and got ourselves organized to head over to the O2 Arena for a little pre-concert reconnaissance.

Our other objective � other than front row seats � was a quality recording of the gig, so Mike purchased a Marantz PMD620.  (Insert Airplane! joke here: Do you know what a Marantz PMD620 is? A muffler bracket for a �79 Pinto? No that�s a PMD 630, the 620 is a digital recorder�) The compact handheld captures .WAV or MP3 files on an SD or SDHC memory card,
The entrance to Gate 'F' just outside of the O2 Arena - home for 32 of the 72 hours we spent in London
and when complemented with the proper microphone, produces top-quality sound reproduction.

Not knowing what the security situation was going to be like for cameras, recorders and the like, our Saturday morning reconnaissance mission was meant to determine just what those were and how to beat them.  Although it was unclear whether or not we�d need to pass through the metal detectors and subject ourselves to security guards with wands, we prepared as though we would just to be on the safe side. 

After a couple of hours kicking around the O2 � which was essentially a massive 20,000-seat sports and entertainment stadium surrounded by various restaurants, a movie theater, an ice skating rink, a museum, nightclubs and executive offices all underneath a giant tent � we decided to head back to the Hotel Ibis to catch a couple hours of sleep and recharge the batteries.

The hotel couldn�t have been more convenient.  Right outside the O2 was the North Greenwich Underground station.  We simply boarded the Jubilee Line and took it three stops north.  Nine minutes later, we�re at the Stratford station and a five-minute walk from our hotel.  After a few hours of rest and relaxation, we were ready to return to the O2, test out the metal detectors and have a look at how security was handled upon entrance to the show.  Luckily enough there was a show that night � the eighth night of Take That!, England�s version of the New Kids on the Block, Backstreet Boys, *NSYNC, et al.

So we initially determined that Mike�s responsibility was a quality sound recording and mine was photos and video.  We later learned that non-professional cameras were being allowed into the show (i.e. no SLR�s or camera�s with +35mm zoom), so not much pressure on me.  Getting Mike�s recording equipment into the venue appeared to be a simple task after a few tests. The mostly plastic facade of the PMD620 didn�t set off the initial metal detector, so as long as Mike didn�t have any other metal, we were fine.  The batteries and mike went in the bottom of my camera case which was going to set off the metal detector regardless.  So the theory was for Mike to walk through the metal detector and not set it off while carrying the sound recorder. I would follow, purposely setting it off with my camera, which was perfectly legal.
The second hurdle we�d need to overcome was a physical pat-down by security upon entrance to the arena.  Again, not a big deal for me but a potential bust for Mike�  The recorder was small enough to fit into a normal compact camera case, so unless guards physically opened the camera case to verify that it was indeed a camera, we were to have no problems.  So, to see how security was handled at the door, we waited until the doors opened for the Take That! show and observed the protocol.  It appeared as though only women�s handbags were being searched. No major pat-downs or invasive body searches.  We left thinking there would be no problems whatsoever.

After several hours at the O2 that day we decided to go and get the only decent night�s sleep we�d have for the next three nights.  Sunday morning, the ticket windows opened at 10:00 a.m. so that fans could collect their tickets and wristbands.  As general
Mike and I claimed our spots at the front of the line where we would spend the next 32 hours
admission ticket holders, our plan was to get our tickets and begin standing in line for entry to the show when the doors opened�32 hours later!  However, the big question was how early did we need to get to the O2 to ensure that we would be first in line to just collect the tickets? We arbitrarily decided to be at the arena by 6:00 a.m. Sunday morning. That translated into four hours in line just to collect the tickets before another 32 hours waiting to enter the arena. We set the alarm for 5:00 a.m., went to bed at about 8:00 and recorded a solid nine hours.  With 45 degrees and rain forecast for Sunday, we layered up, packed rain gear and umbrellas and headed out to the Underground station to catch an early train to the O2.

Sadly, a little bit of dejection set in when we got to the train station and saw the first train from the Stratford station on a Sunday morning wasn�t until 7:05. Poor planning on my part, but not a major tragedy as busses ran 24 hours a day.  We ended up catching the 6:25 bus to North Greenwich and arrived at the arena to no line whatsoever.  The doors to the O2 complex weren�t set to open until 9:00 a.m., so we were looking at only two hours outside in the cold.  But just inside, we noticed a couple of other fans waiting, so we entered the venue and stood just inside the doors � just to stay warm if nothing else.  Ultimately, security ushered us out � along with the two gentlemen who had been there since 2:00 a.m., fresh off their flight from the U.S.  Clearly these were two of the people we�d be spending the next 35 hours with, so we introduced ourselves to Geoff from Toronto and Dave from upstate New York. 

Over the course of the next couple of hours, the line to get into the venue grew to about 50.  Meanwhile, the BBC showed up to capture a story on the fans waiting to pick up their tickets. Geoff, who had a guitar with him, was chosen for an on-camera interview as the first person to the venue (a major point of debate since Mike and I actually spent all day Saturday there). In any case, Mike eventually joined Geoff on camera as they performed an impromptu version of Tangerine live for the nation of England.  Then, at 9:00 the doors to the venue opened and we made our way to the ticket window.  Collection was based alphabetically by surname, so we casually strolled up to the line labeled �H-L� and took our spot at the front of the line. With about 20 lines to collect tickets, we represented the front of only one. So our thoughts now turned to how quickly we could collect our tickets and make our way to the general admission line to get into the show.  Our fate ultimately depended on the competence of the ticket agent that was tasked with checking identification and verifying credit card information and the ticket confirmation code.  As 9:45 approached, we weren�t too optimistic when our agent appeared and took his seat at the box with tickets labeled K-L. He looked the part of an emo-stoner, but we couldn�t judge a book by its cover�
We did have one secret advantage that would later prove to be an ally throughout our time in London.  I knew the venue manager of the O2. I knew Jennifer through work as she used to be one of the complex managers at the Home Depot Center in Southern California where we would conduct a lot of events.  She had been working at the O2 for about eight months and proved to be a valuable resource.  While standing in line about 20 minutes before the ticket windows opened, Jennifer came through to give last minute instructions to the security staff and ticket agents when she spotted me first in line.  A quick hello and a hug reassured us that if we needed anything we could come to her. 

One valuable piece of information that wasn�t publicly communicated was where exactly the line to enter the venue for the show was to start. We casually asked Jennifer where we go once we got our tickets and she told us to head over to gate �F�.  Typically the O2 does not allow camping out for shows, but Jennifer made an exception given the scope and gravity of Led Zeppelin. Since the lineup at gate �F� and the decision to allow overnight camping wasn�t made public, Mike and I figured we�d have no problem being first in line�

At 10:00, the doors opened and we quickly but casually strolled up to our guy.  We presented out passports, my credit card used for the purchase and the Ticketmaster confirmation code.  After filling out some paperwork and signing our names we were presented with our tickets and blue wristbands that denoted our position on the floor. The whole process lasted about two minutes and before we knew it we were walking briskly down the corridor towards gate �F�.  We appeared to be the only ones heading in that direction and when we arrived at gate �F� on the other side of the arena, it was clear we were the first ones there. After about 10 minutes we were still the only ones there, so naturally we began to worry.  A quick glance at our tickets revealed a clause that said �entrance C� so we thought for a minute that we were in the wrong place.  While I held our place in line, Mike headed over to gate �C� to make sure we weren�t mistaken. We weren�t. We were in the right spot.

We were so early that even the area security guards weren�t prepared for the arrival of fans just yet.  There were no barricades set up or formal place to form a line, so I essentially established a little corner at the front of the line and decided this was the beginning.  Behind Mike and I, the next two to arrive were cousins from Toronto, Dan and Fred.  After that, Geoff and Dave � the original two guys that were in front of us waiting for the arena doors to open � arrived to claim their spots fifth and sixth in line.  Then two college-aged kids from LaCrosse, Wisconsin (where I went to school) � Felicia and Jason � took
Thanks to an inside connection, Mike and I were lucky enough to score some passes to Saturday afternoon's rehearsal session inside the O2
spots seven and eight.  The next couple of hours were spent establishing our place in line and forming an alliance with the others at the front.  Clearly with 30+ hours to go everyone would need to leave the line for one reason or another so it was important to establish the hierarchy of who was there first � in this case, myself and Mike. Luckily there were no problems and everyone had an understanding of who was where in line.

One thing we ultimately noticed was that camping out for concerts is purely a North American thing, culturally speaking, as throughout the rest of the afternoon those that took a spot in line were either American or Canadian.  Every so often a Brit would stroll by to tell us we�re crazy for standing in line so early. It didn�t matter though. Our primary objective for the trip was front row, and as the first two people in line, Mike and I were guaranteed that much.

Throughout the afternoon, those standing in line this early had become local celebrities as mostly every British newspaper, the BBC, the CBC and various local television, radio and new media outlets stopped by at one point or another to
interview and photograph us. Mike and Geoff even did a couple more on camera performances for the BBC.

We all knew that at 4:00 p.m. that Saturday afternoon Zeppelin was going to take the stage for their official rehearsal and soundcheck.  Various VIP�s were invited and issued credentials for the event and started lining up adjacent to us for entry.  We were of course jealous and I was ultimately hoping to use my connection with Jennifer to score some passes.  I didn�t want to flat out ask though unless absolutely necessary.  At about 4:30 Mike was the first to hear the faint sound of �Good Times, Bad Times� being performed by the band inside the arena. Then, �Ramble On�.

Almost sensing that we were itching to get inside the arena, Darren, one of the O2 staff members that was milling about the line, casually approached me and said �you know, Jennifer told me to tell you that if there is anything you need, just ask her.�

She probably meant a cup of coffee, but I took it as passes to the rehearsal, so after a few minutes of internal struggle, I swallowed my pride and called Jennifer.  No answer.  So, I swallowed even harder and went to the VIP entrance to find her.  I spotted her near the entrance managing the whole process and felt a little uncomfortable approaching her to ask a favor, but I thought �what the hell�.
�Any chance of getting into this thing?�, I casually asked. 

She informed me that Zeppelin was set to play only a few songs and that it was likely just about over, but she�d see what she could do.  After about five minutes of waiting, she returned with a pair of �Rehearsal Access� passes � one for me and one for Mike.  She told me to call Mike and get him to the VIP entrance as soon as possible, but he didn�t have a cell phone. Jennifer then called Darren on the radio and told him so send Mike over immediately. 

Now this is where it gets confusing.  Literally, less than three seconds after Jennifer instructed Darren to send Mike over, I turned around and Mike was standing next to me. There was no way he could have gotten the call and made it over there that quickly since it was easily a 30-second walk.  Well, what happened was that while I was negotiating a couple of passes from Jennifer for Mike and me, Dan had somehow scammed a credential from one of the O2 staff members and already entered the arena.  From where everyone else was standing, they saw Dan enter and thought they would head over to the VIP entrance too see if they can get in for themselves � Mike included.

In any case, Jennifer gave Mike and I each a pass. We forked over our cameras, iPods, blackberries, etc� and entered the arena as Led Zeppelin was playing �In My Time of Dying� to 400 people in an otherwise empty
Practicing to be homeless people... camping out on cardboard early Sunday morning
20,000 seat arena.  Mike and I took our seats near the top of the first lower section of the main bowl and watched as they finished �In My Time of Dying� and ran through �No Quarter� and �Nobody�s Fault but Mine� without vocals as Robert roamed the floor checking out the sound.  What we saw of the performance lasted maybe 30 minutes. 

The rehearsal ended and the crowd was ushered out.  Mike, Geoff and I managed to wander down to the floor where the band was congregating post-soundcheck, but were stopped by security at the first row.  We casually stood there taking it all in when Jimmy was the first to exit, walking right by us. We said a quick hello and Geoff managed to score a handshake.  Robert was the next to walk off and again we managed to exchange hellos before being asked to leave.

After a surreal experience, we returned to our spot in line at about 6:00 p.m. Only 24 hours to go until we�re back inside.

Throughout the next several hours we sort of just sat there sharing various stories with each other, taking turns to get some food, pee, stretch the legs, etc�One interesting thing that I later learned is that of all the people camping out in line, I was the only one to win the ballot. Everyone else had bought passcodes on eBay or bought a lottery winner�s second ticket, spending exorbitant amounts of money on the transactions.  For example, Dave was on record as saying he spent $7,000 on the whole experience.  Between free flights, face value for the tickets, a cheap hotel, minimal food and some incidentals like Underground fares souvenirs, etc� I estimated that Mike and I were in to the tune of less than $900 apiece for the whole trip.  Not bad in the area of fiscal responsibility � especially when you figure we ended up front row, saw the rehearsal and even budgeted a cool �G� for the concert ticket alone.
At about 11:00 p.m. Mike headed back to the hotel for a few hours for a quick nap and to gather the sleeping bags he had hauled from Nebraska, along with pillows and blankets from the hotel.  While he was gone, I made my way over to the souvenir stand where there were hundreds of empty boxes (i.e. beds).  I took about eight to ten and made up a couple of beds to combat the cold hard concrete.  When Mike returned at about 2:00 a.m., we settled in for some quality shuteye.  If it weren�t for the annoying German kid who wouldn�t stop singing poorly for the ensuing two hours, we would have fallen asleep faster, but believe it or not we got some quality z�s over the course of the next several hours. I awoke at 9:00 and headed back to the hotel for a shower and some much needed coffee before reclaiming my spot in line at around 11:00.  Mike left once more to take back our sleeping bags, pillows and blankets and take a shower before our last few hours in line.
After 36 hours of waiting, we finally staked claim to our spots in the front row
By 1:00 pm. on Sunday, folks were getting anxious and we hunkered down in line with minimal breaks and departures until the doors opened at 6:00.  As our entry drew nearer, the media came again in full force and interviewed us several more times as the �lucky fans who were first in line�.

With regards to recording the concert, the one thing we didn�t quite account for was the close proximity that was going to exist between us and the security guards directly in front of us. An external mike was surely going to be visible from two feet away, so although getting the equipment into the arena was not a problem, using it presented some challenges.  Therefore, Mike decided to ditch the idea at the last minute. Probably a good idea as security was vigilant throughout the show, taking away several illegal cameras from people adjacent to us. 

By 3:00 we drank our last drink to ensure we wouldn�t have to pee during the show. The next two hours were spent mentally preparing for what was likely to be a mad rush of pushy fans at the last minute. But I have to say, the security and organization of the O2 staff was brilliant. Everything was handled seamlessly and smoothly.  At about 5:00, security organized us into five separate lines of about 50 people each (the first 50 people in line #1, second 50 in line # and so on�). In the line that was to be let in first, I was the first in line. Mike was second. Dan third, Fred fourth, etc� just how the line began some 32 hours ago.

At precisely 6:00 p.m., the velvet rope from in front of our line was disconnected and we were instructed to walk slowly, single file, into the arena and choose out spot on the floor. Anyone who ran would be ejected. Our tickets were scanned, a minimal pat-down was performed and at the first full-length Led Zeppelin concert in 27 years � and quite possibly the last ever � I was the first person to walk into the arena.  With Mike just behind me, we took our spots front row against the railing just stage right of Robert�s monitor.
Just one short hour later, the promoter, Harvey Goldsmith appeared onstage, gave a quick speech and the opening act was off.  After quick performances by Bill Wyman and his Rhythm Kings, Paolo Nutini, Paul Rodgers, Foreigner and various special guests, the house lights went back on for another 45 minutes of waiting. 

At precisely 9:00 p.m., the house lights dimmed and a news clip featuring a 34-year-old local news report from Tampa where in 1973 Led Zeppelin set a single-concert attendance record was broadcast.  Seconds later, the band launched into �Good Times, Bad Times� setting in motion the first real concert by Led Zeppelin in 27 years. And there we were, front and center.

Throughout the evening, the 2:15 set included �Ramble On�, �Black Dog�, �In My Time of Dying�, a never-before-performed-live �For Your Life�, �Trampled Underfoot�, Nobody�s Fault But Mine�, �No Quarter�, �Since I�ve Been Loving You�, �Dazed and Confused�, a surprising performance of �Stairway to Heaven�, �The Song Remains the Same� and �Misty Mountain Hop� before closing with �Kashmir�.  After exiting the stage, they returned for a predictable first encore of �Whole Lotta Love� before closing with their second encore, Rock �n Roll�.

Throughout the show, Mike and I collected hundreds of pictures and video clips that turned out fairly well.  Since the concert, hundreds of clips have appeared on YouTube, but none that compare to the closeness and quality of ours being in the front row.
Zeppelin plays Black Dog early on in their 2:15 set
Jimmy works up a sweat during Misty Mountain Hop as the show nears its conclusion
After Jason Bonham finished the final drum solo, he tossed his sticks into the crowd.  Sensing by the initial trajectory, I knew one was coming directly at me but I lost it in the lights.  I blindly stuck out my hand and felt one of the sticks ricochet off my hand to the ground.  I dove over the barrier to retrieve what turned out to be � of one of Jason�s sticks.  He must have splintered it on the last solo only to have it break when it hit my hand or the ground. Either way, the other half was lost, but I made off with something at least!

Reserved to the likelihood that we weren�t going to meet any of the band members this time around, we took the first train back to our hotel around midnight � our primary mission successfully completed and in the books.  From the train station we walked to the closest bottle shop, grabbed a few beers and some pizza at a nearby stand and returned to the hotel for some sleep before our 7:00a.m. wake-up call.

Seventy-two hours after landing in London, we were back on the tube, headed to Heathrow Airport for our 12:30 p.m. flight back to Chicago.  Taking the subway in London is unique for people who live in cities without any semblance of public transportation like Mike and I do.  Taking the tube in London during morning rush hour is a little annoying since you can barely squeeze onto a train.  Taking the tube in London during morning rush hour with a massive duffel bag filled with sleeping bags, winter coats and pillows, along with two backpacks and two wheelies is downright mad.  And so we took the train from Stratford in London�s East End to the furthest possible point � Heathrow Airport on London�s Southwest side. An hour-and-a-half later we arrived, checked in and went to buy all of the morning papers.  Between Mike and me, our pictures were in various newspapers four times.

While in Terminal 3�s W.H. Smith newsagent, Mike recognized Robert Plant�s tour manager from our nine shows on the Mighty Rearranger Tour. He was there buying all of the papers as well to check out the various reviews.  He actually lives in Nashville and was on our flight to Chicago.  The conversation eventually turned to future plans and we learned that he�s set to tour Europe in May with Alison Krauss to support their newly-released Raising Sand album. A U.S. tour will follow in June-July with a few warm-up dates planned in Nashville this March. He put the kibosh on a full-scale Zeppelin �tour�, but said they�ll likely play select dates in the U.S. over the course of the next year or so�
I slept five of the eight hours back to Chicago and just like that, the experience was over. We landed at O�hare, collected our luggage, rechecked it, got on the train to terminal one and went our separate ways � Mike to Lincoln and me to Colorado Springs.  Another epic adventure in the books� Our 48th to be exact.

Next up will be a handful of Plant/Krauss dates in �08. But as we keep our fingers crossed for some Zeppelin activity in the new year, we�ll forever claim the events of Dec. 9-10, 2007 as one of the best adventures over the course of the last 13 years.
After diving over the fence, I was able to retrieve 1/2 of one of Jason Bonham's drumsticks
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