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         View from my room at Hotel Villa Steno, Monterossa (Cinque Terre) over-looking the Ligurian Sea.
                                              Absolutely BEAUTIFUL and so PEACEFUL!!!!

Siena via Pisa and San Gimignano

Pisa (day stop)

Now that we are all R & R’d, we hop back on the train and our bus bound for Siena via Pisa and San Gimignano.  And, on the way to Pisa, we had an opportunity to see a large section of the old Roman aqueduct.  My goodness what a system it took to get water to the city!  Unbelievable!  Pisa was a regional superpower in its medieval heyday (11th, 12th, & 13th century), rivaling Florence and Genoa.  Its Mediterranean empire, which included Corsica and Sardinia, helped make it a wealthy republic.  But the Pisa fleet was beaten (in 1284 by Genoa) and its port silted up, leaving the city high and dry, with only its Field of Miracles and its university keeping it on the map.  Even as the church was being built, the Piazza del Duomo was nicknamed the Campo dei Mriacoli, or Field of Miracles for the grandness of the undertaking.  The style throughout is Pisa’s very own “Pisan Romanesque” surrounded by Italy’s tackiest ring of souvenir stands.  (Yes, we are talking sexual and I thought it was fun to see what they had come up with!)    

Pisa is known world wide for the bell tower or Leaning Tower of Pisa.  I have no clue what I thought this tower was built for, but was very surprised when I discovered it was the church bell tower.  Started in the 12th century, this most famous example of Pisan Romanesque architecture was leaning even before it completion.  You will notice while looking at the tower that the architect attempted to straighten it by altering the angle of the top three sets of columns.

The huge Pisan Romanesque church with its carved pulpit by Giovanni Pisano is artistically more important than its more famous bell tower.  The baptistery, the biggest in Italy, is interesting for it great acoustics.  And, even the baptistery leans nearly 5 feet!

San Gimignano (day stop)

The epitome of a Tuscan hill town, with 14 medieval towers still standing (out of the original 72), San Gimignano is perfectly preserved.  In the 13th century, back in the days of Romeo and Juliet, towns were run by feuding noble families.  They’d periodically battle things out from the protection of their respective family towers.  Pointy skylines were the norm in medieval Tuscany.  But, in San Gimignano, fabric was big business, and many of its towers were built simply to hang dyed fabric out to dry.  From the town gate we walked up the hilly traffic free town’s cobbled main drag to Piazza del Cisterna with its 13th century well.  This was a shoppers paradise and a good time was had by all!  While the ladies shopped, the men enjoyed a museum featuring medieval torture devices.

The entrance to the walled medieval town of San Gimignano

The fabric towers of San Gimignano

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Cinque Terre – Monterosso

Ah, now we head north again to the Cinque Terre and the peaceful quiet solitude of a fishing village (Monterosso) nestled at the foot of a canyon stretching out to the sea.  Oh my goodness, this is a great relief from all the art work and hustle bustle!  I would also like to comment that it is great to see grass, greenery, and trees again as they were nonexistent in Venice and sparse in the city area of Florence.  We could only take the bus so far because this village is located on the coast and the roads are simply too narrow for our bus.  We hopped on the train for a very short ride to our destination of Monterosso and Hotel Villa Steno.  Let me tell you, the food at Hotel Albergo Pasquale (also owners of Hotel Villa Steno) was mouth watering to put it mildly!  We did not know what was on the menu for our second evening as the owner/cook needed to see what was available in the village!  So, we were surprised with fish stew which tasted absolutely wonderful!  And, bear in mind I am not crazy about fish!  So, it must have been really good!  Our family hosts were so gracious and very generous with the food and wine!      

Cinque in Italian is the number 5, so that means there are five villages.  This area is well known for its fish, olives and grapes.  In fact, there are 4,000 miles of stone walls for terraced grapes.  It is a place where castles protected the people from pirates!  How romantic!  From Monterosso (largest of the towns with the best beaches) you can hike along the cliff of the ocean to Vernazza enjoying spectacular views.  Then, it is on to Corniglia (known for its wine) taking in the wildest and greenest portion of the coast.  The next stop is Manarola (cliff diving is a popular sport here) and then Riomaggiore (where the color of the houses is regulated).  From here we took the train back to Monterosso.  And, believe it or not I read the schedule correctly!  Thank goodness!

The Cinque Terre region is the birthplace of pesto.  Basil, which loves the temperate Ligurian climate, is mixed with cheese, garlic, olive oil, and pine nuts, and then poured over pasta.  The vino delle Cinque Terre, respected throughout Italy, flows cheap and easy throughout the region.

Oh yes, I also wanted to mention that Grappa is an after dinner wine made from grape skins and stems.  Donato warned us about some of the Grappa, but our hosts served us an excellent flavored after dinner wine!   

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