UPDATE: My car was sold by parent authority because they didn't want me to have a high maintenance vehicle. Turbo charged cars are harder to maintain and I will not lie. However, if I could have kept my car, I would have. I am keeping this information on my site because I hope to help people who seek information on how to turn their naturally aspirated 3000GT's/Stealths into twin turbos. In the future, I will definetely be getting another one of these cars, because they rock! Cheers....
These are the parts you will need to buy for the conversion. 90% of them can be purchased in the for sale section at www.3si.org . The prices next to each item is what I payed for that part. If you get the part for that price or around that price, it's a good deal.
-Turbos from a VR4, either the TD04 9b�s or TD04 13G�s with wastegate actuators : 250$ SHIPPED
Wastegate use: If you want to run your car at 6-7 lbs of boost, you can hook up your wastegates. To do this, take two pieces of 4mm vac line that are the same length (about 2-3 ft long) and connect each vac line to each wastegate nipple. Take these two vac lines and connect them to a T-fitting. Then take 4mm vac line and connect one end to the small nipple on the y-pipe, and the other end on the T-fitting. Your car will now run at 6-7lbs of boost!
-Both vr4 intercooler's and all IC piping : 200$ SHIPPED
- Exhuast manifolds (one rear and one front) from a VR4 : 100$ or less SHIPPED
- Rear o2 housing/rear precat (this is one piece) and the front precat/front o2 housing (this is two pieces) : 40$ for rear precat/rear o2 housing, 40$ for the front precat and front o2 housing together SHIPPED
- Oil housing from a VR4 : 40$ SHIPPED
- Oil feed and return lines for the turbos : 15-20$ SHIPPED
-�Joint� on the back of the engine block for the rear oil feed line (replaces the N/A oil pressure switch) : 5$ from the dealer
- Water housing from a VR4 : 40$ SHIPPED
- Water feed and return lines for the turbos : 15-20$ SHIPPED
- VR4 downpipe : 70$ SHIPPED
- 360cc injectors from a VR4 : 60 SHIPPED
- VR4 fuel pump (or walbro 255ltr/hr): 40-70$ SHIPPED
- VR4 Front motor mount bracket (not the mount) : 30$ SHIPPED
- VR4 Oil cooler with lines : 110$ SHIPPED
- TT intake piping (there are three pieces, two intak pieces connect to each turbo, and the last piece connects to the MAS) : 30$ SHIPPED
- y-pipe with gasket $25 SHIPPED
- S-AFC or S-AFR (to control the fuel) : 250-300$ SHIPPED . Scroll down to see SAFC tips and installation.
- Boost gauge : Price depends on many factors
Boost gauge install: Your boost gauge can work if you connect it to the FPR. Connect it to the smaller line on the FPR. There are only two lines going to it, so use the smaller vac line. Tap into it using a T.
- A/F gauge (air/fuel ratio) : Price depends on many factors
- EGT gauge (exhaust gas temp gauge) : Price depends on many factors
- 2 MF650102 (Eyebolt, T/C (feed line) ) : from dealer
- 4 MF660063 (Gasket, T/C (feed line) ): from dealer
- 2 MR258477 (Gasket, T/C Oil Return Tub): from dealer
- 1 MD145960 Joint, (T/C (feed line) ): from dealer
- 3 MF660063 Gasket, (T/C (feed line) ): from dealer
- 1 MF650102 Eyebolt, T/C (feed line) ): from dealer
- 2 MR258477 Gasket, (T/C Oil Return, LH): from dealer
- 1 MS650013 (Eyebolt, Cooling water line) : from dealer
- 2 MF660064 (Gasket, Cooling water line) : from dealer
- 1 MS650013 Eyebolt, (Cooling water line): from dealer
- 2 MF660064 (Gasket, Cooling water line): from dealer
- 1 MD158989 (Eyebolt, Cooling water line): from dealer
- 2 MF660064 (Gasket, (Cooling water line) ): from dealer
- 1 MS650013 (Eyebolt, Cooling water line) : from dealer
- 2 MF660064 (Gasket, Cooling water line): from dealer
- 2 MD319539 (Gasket, thermostat case): from dealer
- 1 MD165017 (Gasket, cooling water outlet hose fitting): from dealer
- 1 MD147332 (O-ring, cooling water line): from dealer
- 1 MD161392 (Joint, engine cylinder block): from dealer
- 2 MD168266 (Gasket, T/C exhaust inlet) : from dealer
- 2 MD077551 (Seal ring, T/C exhaust inlet): from dealer
- 2 MD168267 (Gasket, T/C exhaust outlet): from dealer
- 1 MB687002 (Exhaust gasket, front pre-cat/DP): from dealer
- 1 MB687015 (Exhaust gasket, rear pre-cat/DP): from dealer
- 1 MB687002 (Exhaust gasket, DP/main cat) : from dealer
- All of these dealer ordered parts cost me about $250.00 . If you order them online they will be MUCH cheaper.
You also need one front manifold gasket, and one rear manifold gasket. You can get them from the dealer, but I dont know what the part number is.
- OPTIONAL:
- An aftermarket clutch that can handle 400+ lbs of torque. Your stock N/A 3000GT clutch won't last you too long with the turbos. A new clutch runs in between 200 and 400 dollars.
Here is how to install the clutch yourself: http://stealth316.com/2-trany.htm . You will save hundreds of dollars doing this, and it should take about 10 hours to do.
- A LSD (limited slip differential). The stock LSD on our cars sucks nuts even with little modification, so it would be a good idea to get a new one. It will cost a pretty hefty penny though. A little over a grand for a Quiffe LSD + installation. This is the road to better traction.
Misc. items:
- RTV gasket maker: 5$ a tube
- 4mm and 6mm vac line: 5$ for tons of line
- Misc. bolts for precats/exaust: price pending
- Electrical wire, electrical tape, splice connectors, butt connectors, crimp or soddering iron w/ sodder
- 5 or 6 quarts of oil (depending on if you leak or not at first)
- 1 or 2 jugs of radiator coolant (you might leak coolant at first)
You can use the stock vr4 blow off valve, but it sucks ass because of leak issues at high boost. I chose an open atmosphere BOV to get that loud "whoosh" sound after each shift. Some people run rich with these type of open atmosphere BOV's, so you may want to get a close looped BOV such as the Greddy BOV to prevent this problem. My RFL BOV was about $150.00 shipped. Loud as a mother too. Goto 3sxperformance.com to listen to the different BOV's they sell.
BOV install: To install your BOV, you can tap it into the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). The FPR is located on near the plenum on the passenger side of the car, behind the water housing where the radiator cap is. Go here http://stealth316.com/2-fpr_upgrade.htm to see a pic of the FPR. The top nipple of your BOV should run to the FPR, while the bottom outlet should connect to the y-pipe. There are two hoses running to the FPR. One line is big and one line is small. The small line is what you want to connect the top nipple of the BOV to. Just take a "T-fitting" and T into the vac line, and connect the BOV to it.
Now that your car has boost, you can control the amount of boost going into your engine. With the naturally aspirated 3000GT engine and 10:1 compression ratio pistons, I would not reccommend running more than 12 pounds of boost, unless your car is properly tuned. The waste gates on the stock 9b turbos for our cars keep the car running at 6/7lbs of boost. If you want to run around 7lbs, just hook up the waste gates and use those. If you want more than 7lbs, you will have to get a boost controller. I chose a manuel boost controller rather than the electric one because I am broke and took the cheaper route. The manuel ones are just as dependable.
Helpful Sites:
- www.3si.org
- www.stealth316.com
TURBO CONVERSION INSTALL INTRUCTIONS:
http://www.3sxperformance.com/faq/ttconversion/index.asp . I went by these intructions.
- Fuel injector install: http://www.stealth316.com/2-injectors.htm
- Fuel pump install: http://www.stealth316.com/2-fuelpump.htm . If you want to use your N/A fuel pump assembly you will have to slightly modify it. I modified my pump so I wouldn't have to buy the TT fuel pump assembly for 50+ dollars. On the N/A fuel pump, there is a connector attached on the side of the pump so that a plug can plug into it. On the TT fuel pump, there is no connector. So, you have to take the plug from the N/A fuel pump assembly and modify it. But the N/A plug so that the wires show. Take the rubber casing off of the wiring and connect them to two circle connectors using a crimp tool/sodder gun . Now take these wires, put them on the TT fuel pump prongs, and tighten the wires down to the prong using two nuts. Use zip ties to securly fasten the TT pump to the N/A assembly. You're all set!
SAFC Help:
Go here http://www.apexi-usa.com/productdocumentation/electronics_safc_wire.pdf and on page 21 is a Mitsu ECU diagram. If you have a second gen 300GT use diagram m2-a. This diagram is in a weird point of view. *The diagram is showing the ECU harnesses as if the harnesses are plugged INTO the ECU, techniqually the "rear" of the plugs.* The SAFC wires are tapped/spliced into your ECU. On your SAFC, the red wire is the power, the green wire is the RPM signal, the brown and black wire are the grounds, the grey wire is the throttle signal, the orange wire is the air flow signal input, and the pink wire is the air flow signal output. The blue, white, and yellow wires comming from the SAFC ARE NOT used for our cars. Be sure when grounding the SAFC, the brown wire is tapped CLOSER to the ECU thank the black wire is. Failure to do so will cause SAFC failure and possibly engine damage.
TT Conversion Overview: The total cost of the conversion is about $1500.00-2000.00 . With the LSD your looking at about 3 grand. In my honest opinion, not that bad! Most people spend 1 grand on new rims and tires. Do their cars go faster?! HELL NO! Their car will most likely go slower. 100+ bolt on HP isn't too bad at all ;) . Be sure to have a torque wrench handy as well as torque specs. You will need jack stands and jacks, and an compact tool set would be helpful. Plan for your car to be down for AT LEAST one week. If shit goes wrong, your conversion may be delayed.
Some Do's and Dont's:
- Label all parts and bolts. I know it may sound stupid but you are going to have TONS of shit laying around, and you want to know what goes where. You will save yourself tons of time in the long run.
- Keep all tools organized so you know where they are
- Use all gasket washers when installing the turbo oil feed/return lines as well as the water feed/return lines.
- NEVER fully dismantle your A/C condensor. Dangerous chemicals will be released into the atmosphere and will cause death or injury to you or others. When getting to the oil housing, just move the A/C condensor off the the side in the engine bay. DO NOT FULLY DISCONNECT IT!
- "Because of Federal laws, the potential for refrigerant to deplete the ozone layer 10 to 30 miles above the earth's surface, and the danger of exposing skin to very cold evaporating refrigerant, special precautions must always be used when handling the refrigerant in the air conditioning system. Deliberate venting of CFC-12 (also known as R-12, freon-12, or the trade name Freon) to the atmosphere has been prohibited since 1992 and release of HFC-134a (also called R-134a) has been prohibited since 1995. HFC-134a has been in use in USA cars since the 1994 model year. Unless you are certified to perform this type of work and have the necessary equipment, do not attempt any repair procedure that might allow freon to be released. If there is refrigerant in the system, have a certified shop remove the freon for you before you start this work. You should get a credit from them toward recharging your system. Do not release the refrigerant into the atmosphere!" ~ Taken from stealth316
Thanks To:
I'd like to thank some people for helping me out on this project. With out them, I couldn't have done it! Thanks every one!!!!
Jay, Bobthegreat, Henry, Gary, Gabe, Danny, Kody, Dante, Eric, Jaramuel, and all of the help from members on 3si.org! Thanks for putting up with my shit...your help is greatly appreciated!
PLEASE UNDERSTAND I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY INJURIES OR DEATHS, OR HARM TO YOUR VEHICLE. I CANNOT REASSURE YOU ALL OF MY INFORMATION IS 100% CORRECT. I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE FOR ANYTHING YOU DO TO YOUR CAR CAUSING HARM OR INJURY TO YOURSELF OR YOUR VEHICLE ACCORDING TO MY INFORMATION OR MY SITE.