One problem you will run into when doing this conversion is the intercooler piping. The intercooler pipes comming from the intercooler on the driver side will not bolt up underneath the bumper because there is a piece of sheetmetal in the way. Take a dremel tool so you can get in there and carefully cut away.

This is a picture of the TT downpipe. You need cut off the N/A downpipe bung (the nut that the o2 sensor screws into) and weld it onto the TT downpipe so that when you bolt up the TT downpipe you can use your N/A o2 sensor. Drill a hole into the TT and weld the bung on top of that hole so the o2 sensor can go down into the piping. Be sure to weld the N/A bung on the TT downpipe in the proper spot. The bung should be in the same spot on the TT downpipe as it was on the N/A downpipe.

Here is a picture of the driverside intercooler and oil cooler. They are both located under the driver's side bumper. The intercooler is the one in front, and the oil cooler is the one in the back. The oil cooler bango bolts screw into the bottom of the oil housing. The intercooler pipes go straight up towards the hood and into the engine bay.

This is the FPR (fuel pressure regulator). It is located on the plenum near the passenger side of the car. I believe it is directly behind the water housing. There are two nipples on the FPR. One nipple has smaller vac line than the other. You want to use the smaller vac line from the FPR to tap your boost gauge and BOV. Connect two "T fittings" to the FPR vac line. Then connect one T fitting to your boost gauge line and another to your open atmosphere BOV (if you have one).

This is the rear turbo.

Another rear turbo pic.

Here is a pic of the N/A fuel pump assembly and TT fuel pump. Notice where the zip ties are tightened. Also notice the NA fuel pump assembly wires connected to the TT fuel pump.

See that hole? That is where the starter was. You might have to take the starter out to make some extra working space.

This is the oil housing. It is behind the A/C condensor and A/C condensor bracket. To get to the oil housing, you have to remove the alternator, A/C condensor, A/C condensor bracket, and drive belt. Do not completly remove the A/C condensor, as you will release dangerous toxins into the atmoshpere and cause injury to you or others. You will also loose your air conditioning. So just move the condensor out of the way. When you swap out the N/A oil housing for the TT one, make sure you use a new gasket, or else you will leak oil. You can use RTV gasket sealer as an alternative, but before careful when applying this to the housing. You do not want the sealant to clog any holes of the housing. When bolting up the front feed oil line to the oil housing, make sure you use the 2 special washers that go with that banjo bolt, or you will again leak oil.