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Festivals of Nepal

Bisket Jatra - The Nepalese New Year Festival.

Once upon a time, there was a king of Bhadgaon who had a somewhat .... insatiable daughter. Every night a different young man had to spend the night with her, but, invariably, on the following morning, her lover was found dead. Now, it so happened that a young prince arrived from a far away country who said he was ready to accept the challenge. 

He forced himself to keep awake.  Towards midnight, he noticed two thin threads moving out of the princess's nostrils. These two "threads" swelled rapidly and became dangerous snakes. With one stroke of his sword, the valiant prince killed them both. The following morning, the princess' servants were very surprised to find both the girl and the young man in eager conversation and apparently satisfied with their respective achievements.

Of course, the story ends by their being married. To commemorate this "happy end", the King ordered the construction of a beautiful chariot topped by a huge pole. At the highest tip of this mast, two long pieces of cloth had to be attached: they were to symbolize the remains of the two slain snakes. On New Year's day, the chariot is drawn through the streets of the city, carrying also the image of goddess Bhadra Kali, the spouse of Kala Bhairav, the tutelary patron of Kathmandu Valley.

The various stages of this festival were fixed by Jagat Jyoti Malla, King of Bhadgaon (1613- 1637)

Four days before the New Year, Day, the image of Goddess Bhadra Kali a tiny brass statuette, hardly ten inches tall - is ceremoniously carried from its own sanctuary to the Akash Bhairav temple which stands at right angles with the five-tiered Nyatapola on Bhadgaon's square. Bhadra Kali is venerated as Bhairav's consort, Bhairav being Shiva's "representation" in its aspect of god of destruction.

In front of this temple, two chariots wait for their passengers. Bisket's festivities start when Bhadra Kali has taken place on the smallest and Bhairav on the largest of the two. The latter has the shape of a three - tiered pagoda. The end-piece of the carriage's pole is slightly lifted, as to give it the profile of a snake's head.

Now the crowd grasps the thick ropes and drags the chariots in opposite directions. To move them, it is sometimes necessary that several men clutch at the wheels themselves, pushing them with all their strength.

The team that succeeds in moving "its" chariot first is the winner who, therefore, will place the whole coming year under the protection of "his" god.

Similar competitions take place during the two following nights and days. Sometimes, they turn into such a tumult that one of the chariots may tip over, a very inauspicious sign for the concerned team and the prestige of its deity !

But, normally, the two chariots are dragged through the town, and devotees may offer their "pujas" on their passage.

Two days before New Year, each family makes the sacrifice of one animal, usually a he-goat, either in a symbolic or in a real way. While the blood is offered to the god or goddess, the families rejoice in festive meals and curries, abundantly accompanied by much "chang" -drinking. The curries are traditionally served in those large plates made of "sal" -tree leaves stitched together.

On New-Year's Eve, the chariots are brought back to their resting and waiting place, on a square in Bhadgaon's lower quarters.

In the first hours of New Year's day, a huge pole (about 60 f. = 19m long) lies on the ground, its thick end resting in a hole walled with concrete and stones. People will have to erect this pole by pulling two or more thick ropes - made of creeper fibers - tied to it. Sometimes a rope breaks and the pole comes down with a crash, killing or injuring onlookers, a bad omen for the coming year. But, most of the time, after much pulling and shouting, the pole finally stands upright and hundreds of spectators rejoice, sprinkle blood on the wooden mast and decorate it with flowers, garlands and leaves.

Now, young men climb on the top to tear off some of the twigs or ribbons that are attached up there. They will keep these trophies throughout the year as luck-bringing tokens.

In the afternoon, a new demonstration of skill is to take place: the pole has to be pulled down again. Two teams tear, tug and tow from opposite sides. Again there may be some injuries if anything goes wrong but, ultimately one team will win. The moment the pole crashes on the ground is regarded as the real beginning of the New Year !

During the four following days, the chariots are dragged back towards Taumadi near the Akash Bhairav temple where their different parts will be kept until the next year starts.

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