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Middle America Travel of Guatemala


THE DESCENDENTS of the Maya people who built the magnificent pyramids and temples are today thriving in the Highlands of Guatemala. They still weave brightly-colored huipiles as their ancestors did, and speak in several Mayan dialects - the same languages that are inscribed on the stone stelae at Tikal and Quiriguá. Vendors sell their colorful wares at village markets. When you visit the Highlands and see the Maya dressed in their colorful fabrics, you feel as though you've stepped into the pages of National Geographic.
View through window at Antigua Guatemala MOST TOURISTS begin their visit to the Highlands in Antigua Guatemala, the former Spanish capital of the country. Its charming colonial churches and buildings are a marvelous backdrop for the colorful markets and strolling vendors. Numerous churches, some dating from the 17th century, can be seen throughout the city. The cobblestone streets are lined with antique sellers, jade shops, and several stores selling all manner of native handicrafts. Bookstores catering to tourists have a variety of wares in many languages. Take a break from shopping and enjoy cafe con leche at one of the many good restaurants. Antigua has several good hotels and many offer live marimba bands and craft boutiques. Antigua is a popular tourist attraction not only for foreigners but also for locals from Guatemala City. It offers many modern conveniences, such as cyber-cafes where you can send e-mails back home, and yet retains its small-town, ancient charm steeped in history.
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FURTHER UP in the Highlands, several Maya towns, such as Sololá, conduct regularly scheduled markets where you can buy hand-made embroidered huipiles (women's blouses), bags, pottery, carved wooden masks and other handicrafts. Your guides will know which are the best market-days for each of the villages.
Women in the Highlands still make huipiles and other clothing using backstrap looms, exactly like those shown on thousand-year-old Mayan pottery and carvings. The loom is attached to a tree or post and wrapped behind the woman's waist. Most of the colorful patterns are derived from ancient Maya patterns and bear meaning in Maya iconography.
Woman selling flowers in the market
CHICHICASTENANGO is one of the most popular tourist destinations, especially for its Thursday and Sunday markets. Here you will see vendors from Highlands villages like Nebaj and Santa Cruz del Quiché, come to sell their wares. In addition, in “Chichi” you can visit the church of Santo Tomás where an amalgam of Catholic and Maya rituals are conducted, and shamans burn incense on the front steps. It was here that the copy of the Popol Vuh - the Maya creation legend that was written in Mayan and transcribed into Spanish - was discovered.
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MANY TRAVELERS make Panajachel their base. Located on the banks of Lago Atitlán, it is sometimes called “Gringotenango” because so many US ex-pats decided to make their homes here. As a result, you will find not only traditional Maya handicrafts and restaurants, but modern delis, discos and even tattoo parlors, if you start to miss the comforts of home. From Panajachel, you can hire a launch to explore some of the other traditional villages around the lake, such as Santiago Atitlán, where you can see the local idol, Maximon, and visit one of the traditional cofradías. A traditional ceremony at Kumarkaaj
YOU WILL FIND the Highlands steeped in ancient traditions. Santiago Atitlán is just a short boat-trip across the lake from Panajachel, but with history and traditions dating back a thousand years. The Tzutujil Maya here cling to the old traditions. Women embroider and wear huipiles, usually light blue or lavender, covered with exquisitely embroidered birds and flowers. The church in the central plaza will be a highlight of your visit. The carved wood retablo and lectern incorporate scenes of deep-rooted Maya rituals. Saints' figures line the walls wearing woven garments reflecting the cofradías (brotherhood societies) that tend to them.
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