| Garb for women, part II: Piece-by-piece There are currently so many patterns available that I will not try to assess them all: some are very good, others not as great. Medieval gowns are usually the most comfortable but many people prefer the Renaissance look. Both Simplicity and McCall's have a selection of period gowns at the moment. Simplicity 8881, from their Elizabethan costume collection, is more accurate than the English Renaissance gown shown above. However, it is MUCH more challenging and requires a good deal more materials. Hoopskirts I recommend you do not do a hoopskirt if you have never worn one; sitting down is one of the most inconvenient necessities. A peasant would not have worn one at all for just this reason (there was also the little money factor, which still doesn�t explain why nobles were dumb enough to invent these things anyway)! If you do chose to do one, here are some tips you really should follow. Buy it! (contact Laura if you need sources). It will be cheaper and save you lots of work and give you a better product too. Whatever you do, don�t make your own using boning -- they cannot stand the weight of the fabric (personal experience that was thankfully, if humorously, not mine). Tip: Do NOT cut/make your skirts until after you have the hoopskirt, you will need to add about 10 inches to their length (or wind up showing leg � GASP!). Skirts A peasant would have had a solid skirt, not open down the front. If you want extra skirts as a peasant, which is very accurate, tuck up the sides of a second, outer one. Upper-class can have either one skirt closed in the front or an open front over-skirt and an underskirt. If you are doing an underskirt, save money by making only the front part of nice material (this is also historically accurate) and make the rest of a cheap material like old sheets or muslin. Decorate the front panel before sewing it to the skirt. Tip: 1. Do not make your overskirt shorter than the underskirt, it winds up looking dumb (personal experience again, unfortunately). Plus this means the whole under-skirt has to be made of the more expensive material. 2. If possible, sew/safety pin your skirts and bodice together. Usually this only works if you have an open front bodice and an open front skirt. Celtic Styles For Bonny Lasses The Simplicity 8913 pattern is excellent. The men�s shirt pattern is also great for women, either in the short length with a skirt and bodice or cut longer to dress length as an underdress. Then make an open front bodice with a round neck and a matching open front skirt and sew the two together (this is the one exception in lower class to the bodice/skirt not matching and the peasants wearing open skirts). Hats Unfortunately, it is harder for a woman to get out of wearing a hat: it was law that a woman over 12 had to have one and many upper-class costumes look unfinished without it. To make things even worse, though there are great patterns for women�s costumes, many seem to have lost their sanity when it came to most of the hats. Avoid the modern bandana style; this is worse than nothing. Options for Medieval: just ignoring it (ok if you add a circlet), two braids � the longer the better (best to add the decorations noted below for with T-tunics), the �Princess Leia� style (great, actually the best I can recommend), a circlet (better variation, add a back veil and pull hair into a braided bun at the base of the neck), a pointed �princess� hat (actually accurate, make sure to add the gauze veil at the tip and the hair should be pulled back under it). Options for Renaissance: just ignoring it (not great with upper-class), a bow hair clip with a snood attached (don�t use for peasant), putting your hair up in fancy braids (can work great for all classes, depending on the style you choose), wrap a rectangular piece of cloth around the head (great for a peasant only; nobody else wears this!), a straw hat (great for peasant, might work for middle class but not for a noble), a hat made from a circle of cloth like a very full beret (also great for peasant, can work well for other classes if it is decorated), and a hair wreath (most sources say can only be worn on your wedding day but a pretty, easy option for all classes besides noble � don�t use real flowers, this faire has a bee problem many years). Pillbox Hats The easiest type of hat to make for middle class and noble is the pillbox (it should not be used with peasant). The hat is worn toward the back of your head with the hair pulled back under it. Supplies: fairly stiff material, velvet is commonly used or scrap from your bodice; � to � yard filmy material such as chiffon; thread; a small hair comb; any decorations desired (faux pearls and metallic threads work well). 1. Cut a circle about 6 inches in diameter (for the crown). 2. Cut a rectangular piece 20 inches long and 7 inches wide (for the sides, it will get folded in half). 3. Make a seam in the rectangular piece, forming an open circle. 4. Gather the chiffon to the length to 8 inches. Baste to the back of the side piece. 5. Sew the sides to the crown. This will probably be easier by hand but you need to use small stitches. 6. Fold the side piece in half up into the crown. Sew down the raw edge to the crown (by hand!) if you wish. 7. Decorate the sides and top of the hat if you desire. 8. Add a comb to the center front. Try on your hat to make sure it stays on (most of us need to also use safety pins. Hairstyles: With a T-tunic: Braid the hair in two braids. Wrap a ribbon or cording over the braids in a criss-cross pattern. If you want to fake the metal tips, most people use aluminum foil. With a Medieval gown: A braided bun on each side of the head, preferably with metallic cord braided in (yes, like Princess Leia) For The Renaissance: I don�t think these were the most common Renaissance styles for the upper classes (sorry, no peasants) but unlike most they have simple instructions�and one source does claim accuracy. 1. Make a bun (non-braided) toward the back of the head, leaving a portion of the hair out. 2. Use the remaining portion of the hair to form one or two braids and wrap these around the base of the bun. 3. Avoid any urges to leave any hair dangling, especially in curls. If you do so it will look wrong, even to many passers by. 4. Decorations such as strands of beads, pearls, and jewels can be added (and were very in fashion). Shoes Though the women got off badly on the hats, shoes are much easier than for men! For one thing your skirts will possibly cover them. Sandals work for peasants but not for other classes. Ditto for clogs. Leather flats or canvas/velvet china doll shoes are very good for the upper classes. Tip: if your costume is very heavy, make sure to try it with your shoes for a while. You may find your feet get very tired and you'll need to use other shoes. WEBPAGE CONTENTS NEXT PAGE: LITTLE LADIES AND LORDS: CHILDREN'S CLOTHING |