Logtown Climbing Guide Route Descriptions

The Middle Cliff
The Middle Cliff is a sandstone quarry from the 1800's. Measuring 40 feet high and 224 feet wide and has an overhang of 6 feet. The Carboniferous Age sandstone was left as well weathered sheer walls and overhangs mostly of a gray to tan color. There are several toprope climbs and some bouldering hear. For additional information on The Middle Cliff read the Logtown Alpine Club Press 1986 publication of A Climbers Guide To the Cliffs Of Logtown, Ohio 1986.

To locate the Middle Cliff park at the pull-off on Logtown Road. Walk up the hill on Logtown Road to where the Greenway Bike path crosses the road, at this point the old quarry road intersects. Walk on the path for 100 yards then turn up the hill. The cliff will be visible at the top of the hill. A scramble path goes up around to the right to the top for toprope setups from trees above.


Several cautions to keep in mind here are:

The slope on top can be loose, careful footing on top is a must.
Large blocks of sandstone can be loose.
Watch out for residents of the houses above dropping yard refuse, such as, branches and leaves from on top.
The Middle Cliff on land owned by the Village of Lisbon.
Keep a low profile here several private houses are on top.
Please leave no trace of your visit here.

Photo of The MiddleCliff.

View the photo diagram of The Middle Cliff.

1. SHANE'S TRAVERSE 5.8 Start at the right side of the cliff where the trail intersects the cliff. Traverse the ledge system at the cliffs mid-height to the ledge above DOG JOB. Traverse right to the do HORN TRAVERSE. Traverse right to do SEAN'S HIGHLY INTENSE TRAVERSE, 160 ft.

2. SUPERMANS REVENGE 5.10a Start at the right side of the cliff where there is a sloping ramp below two shelves and a right facing inside corner. Climb through the shelves to an alcove and then directly up through the overhang, 25 ft.

3. DYNAMIC MOMENTUM 5.11b*** Start below a finger pocket 6 ft. to the left of SUPERMANS REVENGE. Climb up to the ramp and to the flake above, then without using the shelf to the right, climb over the bulge to a ledge under the overhang. Pull through the top overhang at its widest point on small holds, 35 ft. View a photo of Dynamic Momentum. View a photo of Jim Patton on Dynamic Momentum. View a photo of climb 3.

4. CAVE TRAVERSE V3* Start this boulder problem on the left side of the alcove at ground level. Traverse out of the small alcove cave to a ledge, mantel up and traverse right, 15 ft. Many sit-start boulder problems start under the mantel move of this climb. Note: 1999 addition of a 5 bolt aid-bolt ladder above the mantal ledge. CAUTION: Use of a bouldering pad is highly recommended here.

5. OUT COME THE FREEKS V3** Start this boulder problem 10 feet to the right of DOG JOB and under a 1 foot diameter flake. Boulder up and left along the flakes to the face and then hang from the ledge and drop back down, 18 ft. CAUTION: Use of a bouldering pad is highly recommended here.

6. DOG JOB 5.8** Start in the right facing inside corner under a cracked slab-roof in the center of the cliff. Climb the right facing inside corner to the roof-crack and mantel the roof, 18 ft. View a photo of Dog Job.

7. DOG JOB DIRECT FINISH 5.9 Start on the ledge above DOG JOB. Climb the wall and overhang above, 20 ft.

8. WAVES IN STONE 5.11a** Start 8 feet right of the start of HORN TRAVERSE which is 10 feet to the left of the mailbox slot in the center of the cliff. Climb through the mailbox slot then through the bulging wall and overhang, 40 ft.

9. MISTER GREENJEANS 5.9** Start under the horn of HORN TRAVERSE which is 10 feet to the left of the mail box slot in the center of the cliff. Climb the arete then the face and overhang above, 40 ft.

10. HORN TRAVERSE 5.4* Start 12 feet to the right of ASTROBOY in a right facing inside corner. Climb the arete horn and then traverse left across the face, 35 ft.

11. ASTROBOY 5.8** Start 12 feet to the left of HORN TRAVERSE below a small right facing inside dihedral which is 5 feet above the ground and under a 10 feet vertical finger crack. Climb the right facing dihedral and finger crack, 35 ft.

12. A BLAST FROM THE PAST 5.9 Start 10 feet to the left of the start of ASTROBOY. Climb the bulging wall and face above, 32 ft.

13. FOLLOW THE FOLLY 5.6 Start on the left side of the smooth wall near the big right facing inside corner made by the huge overhanging block and the cliff face. Climb the crack system up and to the right, 25 ft.

14. DICK ROCK ROUTE 5.4 Start in the big right facing inside corner formed by the huge overhanging block and the cliff face. Climb the big right facing inside corner, 30 ft.

15. SEAN'S HIGHLY INTENSE TRAVERSE 5.3 Start in the big right facing inside corner formed by the huge overhanging block and the cliff face. Climb the block to a ledge step around the corner and traverse left, 40 ft.

16. DICK ROCK DIRECT 5.5 Start 5 feet to the left of big right facing inside corner formed by the huge overhanging block and the cliff face. Climb to the crack and then to the top, 30 ft.

17. A LITTLE BOULDER PROBLEM V0 Start directly under the huge overhanging block on the left side of the cliff. Boulder directly over the block, 30 ft. CAUTION: Use of a bouldering pad is highly recommended here.

18. ERIC'S OVERHANG 5.5 Start just to the left of the huge overhanging block on the left side of the cliff. Climb through the overhanging blocks, 30 ft.

19. ARTISTS ONLY 5.6 Start 15 feet to the left of the huge overhanging block on the left side of the cliff. Climb over the blocks and through the overhang, 30 ft.

20. SAVE THE WAILS 5.5 Start 25 feet to the left of the huge overhanging block on the left side of the cliff. Climb to a crack then the overhang, 35 ft.

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