FUXIN

Finally some good news!  As of June 2007 the steam situation at Fuxin seems to be relatively unchanged since my last visit at Christmas 2003.  As yet there are only sketchy reports of a single diesel although the system has long had its roster of (ancient) electric locomotives which share the work on this extensive system.  Fuxin may therefore be one of the last main steam centres in China and should be high on the list of places for a newcomer to the Chinese steam scene to visit.  As always - go soon for who knows how long it will last.


Fuxin is located in Liaoning Province and is fairly easily accessible by train from either Shenyang (about 180km) or Jinzhou (120km).  It is a very large city with a population approaching 700,000.   Before 1998 this area was out of bounds to foreigners but since that time it has become very popular with visiting enthusiasts due to the intensity of steam operations to be found there.   All steam activity now takes place of the mine railway which serves a very large open-cast pit and two deep pits situated to the north and south of Fuxin.  There was an extensive electric railway which carried most of the coal from the open-cast pit and steam locomotives entered this complex on track maintenance trains.   However reports in 2006 suggest that the railway into the big pit is greatly reduced and no longer electrified but details are limited.   The main steam action occurs between the two mine railway stations situated to the north and south of the power station which dominates this part of the city.  A walk from Tiaping to Wulong station takes in the majority of the action including both stabling points, the main shunting yard and the repair shops.   The line is solely worked by SY class engines although a JF and a YJ were seen out of use during my visit in April 2002.  Most of the activity involves tripping wagons backwards and forwards and long trains of wagons are fairly rare.  Locomotives face both north and south and therefore engines working tender first are reasonably common.  There is also a passenger service which now appears to be limited to two trains a day in each direction - considerably reduced from a year or so ago.  However the action is intense with locomotives or trains passing by every 10 - 15 minutes or so throughout the day plus engines going on and off the stabling points for coal and water.   The shots below were taken during three visits to the system - twice in 2002 and again at Christmas 2003.  Of interest to the photographer may be the fact that the quality of light varies considerably according to weather and pollution levels.  The recent clearances of the hulongs may alter the latter - pray for a cold crisp day and you will surely have an amazing experience.
Some indication of the level of activity at Fuxin can be gauged from my notebook for 3rd April 2002.  I arrived at Taiping station about 7.15am and finally left Wulong at 530pm.  During that time I saw a total of 62 locomotive movements and photographed a further 8  locomotives which were not in steam.  Some of these movements were of light engines or trains that passed by, shunted back and then passed me again but there was rarely a gap of more than 10 - 15 minutes.   In all I saw a total of 23 active SY's at work on the system during the day and heard others at work that I didn't actually see!   Due to the weather on the second day I didn't get an opportunity to explore the line beyong Fuxin including the well-known 'church shot' at Minzhu, where there is a large Catholic church close to the running line, or take any shots on the more rural parts of the line.  This seemed as good a reason as any to try to make a return visit to this system which I manged in December 2002.  On that occasion I was able to achieve my ambition and photograph a train at Minzhu (actually on two occasions).  My third visit to Fuxin was in December 2003 when I found everything much as it was on my previous two visits.  During my travels I keep a journal in which I record the day to day details of my travels together with my own observations of life as I find it.  Below is my entry for December 25th 2003 - Christmas Day.  I hope it may serve to illustrate the joys of travel in China.

The three women in the little shop see me as I walk down the street and nudge each other and laugh and smile. I smile and wave back. I decide that maybe I am hungry and suddenly yearn for some steamed dumplings. They realise I am coming into their little cafe and collapse in rib-shaking mirth.

The interior is as basic as it is possible to imagine. Four concrete walls - one with an incongruous picture showing bacon and fried eggs and a basket of freshly picked tomatoes - and a bare concrete floor. Wooden tables and plastic stools. Two ancient refrigerators live out their last days next to a table covered with bottles of cheap spirits.   In the centre of the room stands a larger wooden table. On it is a large square pastry board. The youngest of the three women carefully takes a piece of dough from a large bowl, makes it into a tiny ball and then rolls it flat into a perfect little circle. She makes each one quickly and without thought. On a seat next to her is an older woman who takes each little circle and fills it with a mixture of meat and vegetables before folding it in half and crimping the edges.

The finished products sit on a bamboo mat ready to be cooked. The oldest of the three selects a dozen or so, smiles at me and disappears into the back kitchen. I help myself to a bottle of the local beer and a glass appears on my table as if by magic.    It is December 25th and this is to be my Christmas lunch. The steamed dumplings appear and are delicious. I savour them more than I would the roast turkey and trimmings that will be served up in my absence. The women stand and watch and wait for signs of approval. They are not disappointed and in situations like this the lack of a common language is no barrier.

For now I am their only customer. Maybe others will come later. A simple life, simply led or a hard life, hardly led? In a dumpling shop in the back streets of Taiping.              
Given the direction of the available light it makes sense to start the day at the north stabling point at Taiping and then spend the day walking towards Wulong and then back again.  At Taiping is the north stabling point where locomotives gather and then begin to move off around about 8.00am.  Altogether four SY class locomotives can be seen in this shot with SY0785 on the right and SY0911 in the centre of the picture.  A further locomotive stands to the right of the coaling stage whilst to the left a fourth SY stands at the head of a track maintenance train bound for the open cast pit          (December 2002)
A short while after the previous shot SY1210 came clattering through the yard with a very long train of empty wagons heading for the open cast mine at Xinqiu.  Whilst there are probably no photographic mastershots to be had on this industrial system the amount of action more than justifies any visit.
SY0849 brings a short train of track panels out of one of the maintainance yards situated next to the north depot.  These were then taken down into the open-cast pit and laid in a temporary fashion to allow the movement of coal from the seams up to the washery and ultimately to the CNR exchange sidings or the local power station.  Meanwhile on the right, SY0988 is being made ready for its days work.
                                     (Easter 2002)
At least twenty five SY's were in use during my three visits.  However there are a considerable number of locomotives out of use, withdrawn or dumped including YJ403 which I found on a siding at the North depot.  Later in the day I also came across a JF in amongst a line of withdrawn SY's at the southern depot.
In addition to the coal trains there is also a steam hauled passenger service between Xinqui and Wangying.  There are currently two daylight trains in each direction and these are used by miners heading to and from work as well as the local populace.  My arrival in Fuxin in Easter 2002 co-incided with a major dust storm and with photography out of the question I rode the train from Wulong to Wangying and back.  This caused great interest amongst the locals who could not understand my interest or desire to sit in Wangying for over an hour waiting for the train to go back again!
Like most industrial systems there is little or no 'timetable of action' except for the passenger trains.  However at Fuxin there are regular workings of wagons into and out of the power station.  With China's growing economy the demands for energy are unceasing and so there is almost a merry-go-round system in operation.  SY0540 brings a short train from the main yard and is heading the mile of so towards the power station.
                               (Christmas 2002)
Definitely not working steam!  The rail network at Fuxin is extensive and complex and train workings are undertaken by both steam and ancient electric locomotives.  Some lines seem to be exclusive to one or other form of traction whereas other lines are used by both.  This workers train is passenger moving at its most basic!  The coaches appear to be box cars with flame cut windows and no seating - and certainly no First Class!  
A long train of empty wagons leaves the main yard at Fuxin behind SY0540 heading for Xinqiu.  There is an illusion of a banking engine at the rear but in fact this was another engine shunting the yard. On the right can be seen the hulongs - brick build houses occupied by workers - which are now being swept away all across China to be replaced by concrete appartment blocks. 
SY1319 shunts the main yard at Fuxin with an unidentified SY propelling wagons up onto one of the unloading staithes in the background.  In the distance can be seen the distinctive power station chimney - the destination for much of the coal produced in Fuxin.                 (December 2003)
SY1378 awaits patiently as coal is loaded into wagons near Wulong - a slow and time consuming process.  On the left is a small hut - having taken this shot I sat on a bench outside this building to change a film and was joined by two Chinese women who were intrigued by my presence.  They were joined a short time later by man who was also fascinated to see a foreigner in town.  I wandered off to take a couple more shots and on my return was invited into their hut.  The table was set for four - the fish was frying in a pan on the fire - and it was clear that they considered me their guest of honour.  I never cease to be delighted by the kindness and generosity of the ordinary Chinese people.
Lunch was interupted on several occasions by the arrival of trains - in this case SY1378 taking a long train of loaded wagons out of the yard and heading for the CNR exchange sidings.  Right ...... back to the fish!
This is steam in an industrial setting in a country with a rapidly developing economy.  A point perfectly illustrated by this shot of SY1460 bringing back wagons from the open cast pit past a pond in which I certainly would not wish to swim!  No dramatic sweeping viaducts or dramatic mountain scenery on this system!
SY1460 shunts a short train of low sided coal and spoil wagons at the western end of the main yard at Wulong.  The almost non-stop action which I enjoyed at Easter in 2002 was almost incredible for the beginnings of the 21st century.
The south depot is tucked away out of site at Wulong and it took me a little time to work out where a number of light engines were disappearing to between shunting duties.  I eventually found the depot and watched as SY0126 and SY 1319 came onto the depot for servicing.  Also at this depot I found a JF class locomotive together with a number of out of use SY's.                                  (Easter 2002)
SY1320 also was to be found on the south depot.  Although I am quite used to decorative headboards and smokebox garlands this was certainly the first time I had seen an SY adorned with a bicycle.  Either the engine driver was Norman Tebbut's father or the local driver was intending to take a short cut home! 
I spent some time watching SY1396 put together a long train of loaded coal wagons ready to go the CNR sidings.  As I did so I was joined by a large number of local woman who squatted down by the lineside to wait patiently for the train's departure.  As soon as the train began to pull out of the sidings the women leapt to their feet and began to hurl rocks at the sides of the wagons!  Their aim was to knock out one of the pegs securing the side doors to the wagons in the hope that it would release its cargo all over the track - whereupon the women could then legally scavenge for the coal to take home for their cooking fires or to earn a little money.  It was an amazing (and rather sad) site. 
On a delightful Christmas Day in 2003 it was a joy watch SY0931 working the afternoon passenger train from Xinqiu to Wangying.  The afternoon train was composed of eight former CNR coaches in the traditional green and yellow livery and certainly would not have looked out of place on the mainline.
SY0941 standing at the head of a long train of empty wagons in the yard at Wulong.  On this occasion the sky was a deep blue colour as the wind blew in cold air from the mountains to the west - pollution was at a minimum and all was right with the world              (Easter 2002)
At Wulong their is a fairly extensive maintenance and overhaul facility.  It would appear capable of undertaking all but the heaviest of overhauls (maybe more) but access is normally denied to all visitors.  However China increasingly celebrates Christmas and thus it was that on December 25th 2003 it was possible to explore the whole works facility without being asked to leave.  Photographic opportunities were fairly limited but this set of SY wheels made a good subject.
In the middle of winter the sun never gets onto this side of the line but during my Easter 2002 visit it was possible to take shots from the west side at Wulong.  There had been a long period of inactivity on this particular afternoon and I was beginning to wonder if I would see any more action before the sun set.  Eventually my patience was rewarded as not one but two columns of smoke could be seen in the distance.  First to arrive was SY0076 on the afternoon train to Wangying ................
....... followed almost immediately by SY1460 on a train of loaded wagons heading for the exchange sidings.  It was the finale to my first visit to Fuxin and a wonderful way to end the day.
Another day ...... another passenger train.  The late morning train from Xinqiu terminates at Wulong and the locomotive runs around its train and sits for several hours in Wulong station before deperting in the early afternoon.  SY0076 seems to be the regular engine for passenger working and was seen on this duty on all three visits to Fuxin.  (December 2002)
During my December 2002 visit I bumped into Ron Lingley, a fellow enthusiast from England.  We decided that we would try to get a shot in the more rural surroundings of Minzhu with the Catholic church in the background.  We secured a taxi and set off - instructing our taxi driver by signs and gesticulations.  Once in position we paid him off and waited for SY1376 to do the business.  Only then did we realise we had no taxi back to Fuxin!  Since we both needed to catch trains to other places this was a concern.  After waiting, without success, for nearly 40 minutes to hail a taxi we eventually waved down a passing 4x4.  The bemused occupants agreed to take us back to Fuxin - but not before showing off their 'captives' to their local factory!  We were regally treated - made tea, given fruit - and deposited back at the station in time for our trains.
            Click on locations below for more Chinese steam (systems shown in yellow no longer have steam)

ANSHAN STEELWORKS                                      BAOTOU                                        BEITAI STEELWORKS
BENXI STEELWORKS                                         CHENGDE                                     HANDAN STEELWORKS         FUXIN COAL RAILWAY                                       NANPIAO                                        MEIHEKOU              
JIXI MINING RAILWAYS                                      JINGPENG                                      TIEFA  MINING RAILWAY        WEIHE FORESTRY RAILWAY                           XINGZANG BRICKWORKS            XUANHAU STEELWORKS                                                                                   YUANBAOSHAN
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