Elena's Red & Black Party Dress from the Mask of Zorro is a two piece ensemble: a tight-fitting red bodice and black and white split full skirt. Don't forget to check out Olivia's MOZ Research site Threads of Elena for more information on this costume.

Bodice - The tight-fitting bodice is made from red velvet, probably cotton as it has a low pile and sheen. It has a scoop neckline trimmed in gold lace at least 3" wide. It looks like the lace is slightly gathered in the front to create an interesting detail - most likely tacked into place in a few spots (when she's dancing, the lace doesn't flop around). There are nine seams - all self-piped - and there is also piping along the bottom hem of the bodice (which is separate from the skirt and comes to a point in the front) as well as along the neckline to finish it. The center back laces with 26? grommets. The grommets are red to match the bodice, either painted or covered with matching thread. The laces are also red and form an repeating 'X' pattern down the back before ending in a bow at the waist. The bodice is most likely interlined in a sturdy cloth to give it structure and it is probably boned to help keep its shape.

Sleeves - The sleeves are two part: the upper sleeves are the same red velvet as the bodice and are gathered into three 'poofs'. You can see a similar sleeve treatment on this Ever After reproduction gown [here]. Note the intermittent 'poofs'. The sleeves are sewn into the armscye and finished with a band of red velvet at the hem. The lower sleeves are then sewn to this band. These sleeves are a beautiful vintage cream-colored floral lace, possibly beaded. Mostly likely a rectangular shape gathered into the end of the upper sleeve and secured into place. The lower sleeves are split in front to allow movement of the arm.

Underskirt - The underskirt is tiered with four layers of cream-colored oversized ruffles - most likely silk. Each tier is trimmed in black lace (vining and flowers) that is edged in red. The top three tiers are further decorated with upside-down appliques - roses? - covered with red and black beads. The top applique has a red center flanked by two black leaf shapes. The second one is reversed (black center, red outer). The third applique is like the top - red center flanked by black. These three tiers are also decorated with random sequins or beads that tie in with the applique on the fourth/bottom tier. This ruffle is decorated with a crescent shaped applique. It looks like sequins, but might be beaded in a variety of colors including silver and black - hard to tell as it reflects the light in different ways. Most likely, all of the embellishments on the underskirt are only to the side seam, as the back portion of the skirt is never seen anyway.

Overskirt - The overskirt is made from black velvet, probably cotton like the bodice. The skirt is split in front and piped in red, most likely the same piping used to decorate the bodice. The skirt is therefore lined, probably only to the side seams to reduce bulk, as a lot of fullness in the overskirt is in the back. It seems that the overskirt and underskirt are both attached to a black velvet waistband. It looks like the underskirt is gathered into it (the upper ruffle) but the overskirt is probably pleated into the waistband - it's hard to tell as the black velvet sucks up so much light! This pleating is period to the time that the movie is set (mid-1800s-ish) and will give the correct silhouette.

Foundation Garments - We can theorize that Elena wears a corset and chemise under the gown, but can't say for sure as the bodice is structured so as to give a corset-like shape (thus negating the need for one). For my research on Elena's corset and other undergarments click [here]. However, we do know that Elena wears at least one petticoat for fullness under her skirt. It appears that the petticoat is ruffled (similar to the underskirt) and these chiffon? ruffles are decorated with 4-5" wide cream colored lace. Most likely the ruffles start just below the hips as to reduce bulk and flare out just the bottom of the main skirts as intended. In the dance scene, when she twirls we also see a less full 'modesty' skirt under the petticoat to prevent her pantaloons from showing. ;)

Accessories and Shoes - Elena wears an interesting shaped necklace/locket of silver. This is threaded onto a black ribbon and hangs loose around her neck (not a choker). It's nearly impossible to tell what type of shoes she's wearing. Watching this scene in the movie frame-by-frame gives a little insight: they appear to be flats with a rounded toe and gold bows. They have black ribbon attached to the back which then wraps around the ankle. Olivia has some understandably tiny screencaps [here].

Hair - Her hair is pulled loosely to the back of her neck and secured at the nape with a large brown Spanish-style comb ("peineta": 01, 02, 03), leaving the curled ends to dangle to the middle of her shoulder blades.

Linkage:
Threads of Elena - Olivia's Zorro research site
How To Make An 1830's - Early 1850's Crinoline
Recipe For A Corded Petticoat