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Arwen's gown is split into two pieces: an underdress with half-circle sleeves and a velvet overdress. For my reproduction, the underdress bodice and short upper sleeves will be out of a pretty red brocade while the part that's covered with the velvet overdress (and therefore, not seen) will be out of black crepe satin. I found some *gorgeous* gold trim at Joanns and will use this around the scoop neck and at the elbow seam of the underdress. I also have some gold cording to finish off the edge of the lace once attached. I want to try to dye some lovely lace that I found to see if I can recreate the gray-pink overdyed effect of the original. If dying the lace turns out well enough, I may not use the gold trim at all. Some experimentation is definitely in order. I ended up going with the gold trim, just for the sake of finally finishing the costume!

       

Left to Right: fabric, trim, trim test
[up]   [finished costume]

For the underdress muslin v.1.0, I draped my muslin on a mannequin with measurements similar to my own. I sectioned the muslin into two parts with an empire waist, adding darts to get rid of the fullness near the bust. In the end, after a long hiatus from LOTR costuming, I decided I didn't like it and tried again.

               

Left to Right: bodice front, side, back; with skirt front and back
[up]   [finished costume]

For my second try, I used SIM 7964. I had to take it in a bit in the sides and extended the sleeve so it hit right at my elbow. I redrew in the front neckline and widened the back neckline so it met with my new front (this also narrowed the straps some). I ended up adding an empire waist since I only have one yard of my pretty patterned brocade. There's some funny wrinkling on the back shots of this muslin, but only because I sewed my temporary fitting zipper in the wrong way. ;)

               

Left to Right: front, back; with lower sleeves: front, side, back
[up]   [finished costume]

After getting all of the pieces the way that I wanted with my muslin, I sectioned the front and back bodice so that there is a 1 1/2" curved 'facing' (shaped like a facing but not really one because it shows on both the inside and outside of the garment). On the final underdress, I heavily interfaced the 'facing' pieces and used the seam where they join with the rest of the bodice as a guide for sewing on my trim. Everything is lined in leftover black satin (bodice, facing, sleeves).

           

       

Left to Right: without sleeves: fronts, back, sleeve test; with sleeves: front, side, back
[up]   [finished costume]

The sleeves I made from my own pattern. I had four yards of velvet to work with so that meant two yards for each sleeve. I measured the distance around my bicep (11") and used this to determine the radius of the top part of the half circle. Since my velvet was 45" wide, I made the sleeves oblong (into a more elliptical shape) to take full advantage of my fabric width. I drew all of this out onto pattern paper and used that to cut out my velvet and satin lining. It didn't take very long to sew them together (if you don't have a walking foot, be sure to pin frequently and go slowly). I also understitched the lining to the velvet at the hem so that the lining won't be seen as the sleeves move. And yes, the velvet is heavy! I already know I'm going to have trouble finding my hands with all of that fabric covering them. :)

           

Left to Right: pattern; at rest, extended, lining
[up]   [finished costume]

The overdress of Arwen's gown is fitted only at the side seams (no darts or princess seams) and made of blue-black velvet. The 'straps' that form the neckline are made out of the same brocade as the upper portion of the underdress. For my pattern, I used the same muslin as my underdress, just eliminating the empire waist and reshaping the neck and armholes. I also added a small train in the back, just as the original.

           

       

Left to Right: front, front neck, back, back neck; with underdress: front, side, back
[up]   [finished costume]

In the first four pictures, I still needed to turn the bias tape straps inside out and attach them to the overdress.

           

   

Left to Right: front, front neck, back, back neck; with underdress: front, back
[up]   [finished costume]

So I had extra red velvet and satin left over from making my sleeves and decided to try out an idea I had for a drawstring purse. I cut out a 16" circle of velvet and two 8 5/8" half circles of the satin. I sewed the satin together, leaving a gap big enough to fit my hand through in the middle. Then, after pressing the seam flat, I sewed the velvet and satin right sides together along the outside of the circle. After trimming and clipping the seam, I flipped the circle inside out using the gap I left in the satin for my hand. I then top stitched the outside edge at the width of the presser foot, and stitched a second row the same width inside, creating a double row of stitching that acts as a casing for the black satin drawstring ribbon. To get access to this casing, rip out the few stitches *between* the double row at the seam where the satin half circles were initially sewn together. Then, using a safety pin, run two lengths of ribbon around the entire purse. Before drawing it closed, I hand-stitched the gap left in the satin lining closed. Voila!

   

   

Left to Right: flat front, flat back, gathered side, gathered top
[up]   [finished costume]

For more pictures of the final costume on a dressform and on me, click [here].

   

Left to Right: front, back
[up]

To see the reference images used to make this costume,
check out my Blood-Red Gown Research.